my 70 c/s convertible's driver window is intermittant,all others work fine.was wondering if the switch can be removed without taking the door panel off. it seems like its just pushed into the access hole but dont know if its secured from the back. cant find any info in the service or fisher manuals on this 4 way switch

 

I own a 1971 CS convertible and I replaced my driver's side power window switch this past winter. I cannot speak directly to the 1970 convertible, but I removed the door panel to replace my switch w/ a NOS switch. You really do need to remove the door panel. The switch itself mounts into (pushes into) the 'base housing' of the switch. The 'base housing' is secured into the door panel. The rigidity of the switch which pushes into the base housing is such that if you tried to remove the switch from the base housing you'd essentially destroy the door panel and the base housing.

Removal of the door panel is not a very difficult job and I'll add it's a great opportunity to lubricate the mechanism(s) and evaluate the interior of the door, vacuum, clean, etc. - as well as to make your life tolerable when working with the wiring to disconnect your current PW switch and installing a new PW switch.

 

Just a picture of my door after installation of the NOS PS switch. I also took the opportunity to redye the lower door panel carpet & re-paint the arm rest. If your door has the same appearance as mine you can evaluate based upon this picture. If you need to identify which screws you need to remove, the push-pin door panel edges and how to remove the door handle let me know. I'll add the only 'tricky' part is the removal/routing of the remote mirror, but still no big deal.

 

Your panels look great and I’ll heed your advice about removing it. Also could use some paint and rug dye. The panels are in pretty good shape and I would like to preserve them, the rugs are faded and the po’s cat might have used them for a scratch board. Also have the saddle interior but 1970’s seems quite a bit darker. What brand of dye did you use? Maybe I can shave the fuzzies off the carpet. Thanks VC. Alan

 

I replaced my floor carpeting (as well) from Legendary Automotive Interiors. I replaced my rear seat back and rear seat bottom with vinyl from Legendary Automotive Interiors. I spray painted the door panel carpet with none other than Rustoleum Vinyl Fabric paint (the flexible product). The plastic bottoms of the arm rests I painted w/ VHT w/ a (first applied) plastic adhesive primer coat.

 

When you remove the remote mirror cable, try to pay attention to where/how the remote mirror cable is routed. There is a bent piece of metal towards the upper right-hand interior side of the door which supports the remote mirror cable. This bent-over piece of metal is hard to identify at first and you might not catch a glimpse of it as you remove the remote mirror handle e.g. you'll suspect the cable was simply laying in the interior of the door. But no, that bent-over piece of metal actually allows the remote mirror cable to modestly secure the cable. Here's how I know. As I was making adjustments and replacing a couple of parts for the door panel, I had everything back together when after several tests of freedom of movement and functioning of the new PW switch, the window wouldn't go down any further and was getting hit by something. Yeah, that something was the remote mirror cable. Make sure you note the routing of that remote mirror cable.

 

I will make note of the routing and of course take pictures. Thanks for your tips I’ll let you know how it goes.

 

I had the same problem with my '69 4-4-2 convertible (Fremont car) - all the power windows worked fine except for the driver door window, which was intermittent at best. I even bought a new (reproduction) switch, thinking the switch was bad. When that didn't make any difference, I looked at the wires and found that the wire that is needed to operate the driver door window wasn't fully "tabbed" into the multi-wire connector that attaches to the back of the switch. The little tab that held the wire in place was depressed enough that the wire would back out and only intermittently touch the prong on the back of the window switch that operates the driver door window. I fixed the little tab, snapped it into position, and now all the windows work fine. Please check your wire harness to the driver door switch to make sure all of the wires that go into the connector are tabbed in place.

Randy C.

 

Thanks Randy, I will definitely look at that connection.

 

Found the terminal block that attaches to the switch cracked in half, 5 pins on one side 4 on the other. Was able to make a repair and all windows are working fine now but ordered a new pigtail for future permanent repair. In the meantime, cleaned and lubed regulator and tracks and painted the panel carpet with SEM flexible paint cordovan brown. Looks a lot better. Thanks for all the advice and tips

 

Good deal. Your panel turned out nice. Good job.