Thanks for reading my post.

I have 1969 Olds Cutlass with power windows. I have gone through and replaced all the power window motors discovered the master power switch on the driver's side door was not working. Probably due to all the rain and moisture it had received over the years.
The wiring connection for the master switch didn't look too good so I replaced both the master switch and wiring connector the master switch plugs into with new parts.

All the power windows work except for the driver's side door which will go down but not up. Bench tested the motor and it checks out.

I did notice the master switch will only plug so far into the connector leaving about enough space to slide about three quarters between the two.
I tried pushing down the two pieces by hand until it just seemed to stop. Short of getting a vice grips and forcing it down, I am not sure what to do.
Is the spacing or gap between the two pieces supposed to be there and this is just how it is supposed to fit?

It seems like they should fit closer together. I am wondering if this gap is causing a bad connection for the driver's window.? Or could it be a bad switch or connector? Really would prefer to fix this if possible instead of buying another new switch or connector hoping it will fix the problem.

Any advice or words of wisdom sure would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

Raising the window takes a lot more current than lowering it. If any connections from the switch to the window motor are questionable, you'll get excess resistance that will prevent the motor from raising the window. Of course, the first thing to do is to make sure that the window regulators, rollers, and tracks are well lubricated. The original grease gets hard, which dramatically increases friction. Use a silicone grease; petroleum-based products can cause plastic rollers to deteriorate.

 

There should be no gap between the plug and the switch. Maybe the new plug is too shallow.

 

The window and regulator are out of the car. Wanted to be sure everything, motor and switch, was working before reinstalling these. Appreciate the reminder to lubricate the tracks and for suggesting a silicone grease.

After looking at it more closely, I am thinking the switch may indeed be too shallow. I did buy a switch off ebay that was supposed to be specific for the car according to the compatibility list in the listing. Is there another vendor someone could recommend if I decided to buy another connector?

Thank you.

 

On my '69 with power windows, I also had trouble with the driver door window. It worked either way less than half the time. This went on for several years. All the other windows worked fine but the driver door window was intermittent at best. I had sort of come to the conclusion that the button on the 4-button switch for the driver door window must be bad so I bought a reproduction replacement from Fusick. I installed it and got the same result as with the original switch so I started looking at the wires and the connector to the switch. What I discovered is that, on one of the wires, the tab that holds it in place in the connector had been pushed down and the wire wasn't staying fully into the connector. The way I discovered it was that I just tugged lightly on each of the wires and the one wire just came out without any resistance. I reset the tab, reinstalled it into the connector and it locked in place. From that point on, the window worked perfectly on both the reproduction and original switches.

Fusick's 4-button reproduction switch for the driver door runs about $75 (part number PWS6471 from an old catalog). But check each one of the wires into your connector first - it just might be something as simple as what I discovered after many years of frustration!

Randy C.