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Hi all, sorry if this is not the correct place to post this.
First classic I have owned and I have only had the car for a few months and has always started up cold without a problem, the problem is when driving for a while it won't start up right away after shutting it down. Need to let it cool down a while and then it will start for me, sometimes first try sometimes not. I am thinking I need to replace/upgrade the starter, not the most mechanically inclined but looks like I should be able to not screw this up too bad! Looking to see if anyone has a suggestion on what starter to get or any other thoughts. 69 Cutlass 350 auto. Thank you
Check the simple things first. Start with a complete inspection of the battery cables, especially the cable clamps and ends. Make sure the connections are clean and tight. Have the battery load tested, make sure the battery is fully charged before testing.
There isn’t much involved in swapping starters, other than they are heavy. Make sure you note the location of each wire, make sure you put them on the correct stud.
Everything matt said plus if you have headers it could be heat soak affecting your starter.
if all your periphrals are good i would just use a mini starter i put a powermaster on my 455 when i rebuilt it just to avoid those issues cranks the sane hot or cold and as a bonus is probably 20lbs lighter than the OE starter
Are you saying the hot cranking speed is slow? Does it crank at all? OR Is the issue at the engine cranks at normal speed but won't start and run? These are different problems with different causes... trying to prevent you from heading down the wrong path. We can help you diagnose it vs. throwing parts at it.
Thank you all for replying back, I really appreciate you taking the time to help.
Matt and Retro to connections seem tight and clean, there is a disconnect lever off one of the battery terminals but that is clean also.
Sugar Bear, I get no crank at all, just a click like its a dead battery. Then, usually, within a couple more tries or waiting a little longer it will start right up.
The symptoms sound like the classic worn contact disc in the starter solenoid. The GM solenoid uses a copper disc that is pushed into contact with the terminals in the solenoid end cap to close the circuit to the starter windings. Every start causes a small arc, which leads to pitting and poor contact points over time. The disc rotates slightly when engaged, which is why it will eventually start when the disc rotates back to a non-pitted area. Change the solenoid.
This isn't a GM solenoid, but it's similar and gives you an idea of the contact disc pitting issue.
You can also get a repair kit with just the end cap and contact disc, but it's probably easier and about the same money to just replace the solenoid.
Likely starter and/or solenoid if the connections are clean and tight including those at the solenoid. My best success has always been with local rebuilders vs an exchange unit.
As long as the starter is coming out now is the time to freshen it up. Find a good starter-alternator rebuild shop and have them go through it and the solenoid and bench test it. Have the battery load tested by the shop.
Physically pull, clean, inspect both ends of both the positive & negative cables. Now is the time to replace those as well. Fusick, Year One, and some other restoration parts vendors sell the exact fit cables. Will-fit general-purpose parts store cables are not recommended....chineasium junk
If you are simply swapping it for a parts store reman that's a crapshoot whether or not you will get a good one. There may be a chance the starter is original to the car. Do not turn it in for the core charge. Either route bench test it yourself before installation.
Do a little homework. The NAPA, CarQuest, Federated, etc privately-owned parts stores are generally better than a big box...Maybe... as everything is chineasium junk today,
Chances are that you dont have the big block high torque starter with a 350, at least not originally. Be sure you get the correct starter, not a "will-fit".
