Over charging....16+ V!

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Old Sep 5, 2024 | 01:52 PM
  #1  
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Over charging....16+ V!

Ok, so first off let me just say this is the car I'm restoring, everything is new or rebuilt. (alt, new GM resto regulator, Autowire harness)
(so I'm still in shake down mode)

The engine has run for apx. :30 total with the volts usually right at 14.

This morning I ran it for a minute or 2 and say the gauge pegged at 16.
I checked the ground continuity from the battery to the alternator battery and to the base of the regulator...always shows 0.00.

Another interesting thing to note is when I rev the engine up to 2000-2500 the voltage drops back down to a normal 13.5-14.5 range.

Definitely the regulator?
Again...think out of the box, this is a brand new system installed by a hack like me.

Last edited by Rallye469; Sep 5, 2024 at 04:31 PM.
Old Sep 5, 2024 | 01:54 PM
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Did you measure the voltage at the alternator with the engine running? What does your multimeter say?
Old Sep 5, 2024 | 02:09 PM
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Checked it at the battery.
Old Sep 5, 2024 | 02:52 PM
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Probably the regulator.
Old Sep 5, 2024 | 04:32 PM
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Now I have some weird buzzing sound…
it sounds like an 80’s relay.


Old Sep 5, 2024 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Rallye469
Ok, so first off let me just say this is the car I'm restoring, everything is new or rebuilt. (alt, new GM resto regulator, Autowire harness)
(so I'm still in shake down mode)
That statement says nothing regarding year & model. I hate playing the guessing game when you have six cars listed.
Old Sep 5, 2024 | 05:54 PM
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Hahaha!
very fair.
1965 F85. very factory appearing restore but I’ve changed a few parts for maximum drive ability.
Old Sep 5, 2024 | 06:31 PM
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Mechanical voltage regulators have points in them and will make a buzzing sound when the points are opening and closing rapidly.
Old Sep 5, 2024 | 07:02 PM
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Check your Autowire harness over carefully.
It sounds like battery voltage is crossing into the field circuit when the alternator is producing 16+ volts. (full fielding)
Old Sep 5, 2024 | 07:27 PM
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Go get a Chicom Napa solid state regulator for comparison. Also, check all contacts. No voltage regulator will make the alternator go WFO, so a break in the connection will Do That.
Old Sep 5, 2024 | 09:31 PM
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Peter...See this link. The thread path is here too if the link doesnt work.. See post #26

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...g_27aug24.docx

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rnator-181385/
Old Sep 6, 2024 | 06:32 AM
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Thank you guys.
Dr. Morland, I printed that sheet out and will get on it tonight.
It looks like a keeper!

Koda...Chicom? IS that a brand?
Old Sep 6, 2024 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Rallye469
Thank you guys.
Dr. Morland, I printed that sheet out and will get on it tonight.
It looks like a keeper!
The document Steve (droldsmorland) put together should be a sticky.
Old Sep 6, 2024 | 04:28 PM
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I found a solid state VR that I wanted to try, but first wanted to go through DrMorland’s checklist.

Not sure it’s step 2 or 3 but when I got to checking the the VR connector, here’s what I found.

Key On, engine static
F (blue) .0 > .1
2 (white) .2
3 (red) 12.45
4 (brown?) 9.75

The 9.75 threw me…I checked all my fuses near related to the instrument panel and every thing looks ok.
Any ideas?
Old Sep 6, 2024 | 07:01 PM
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I wonder if it's behind the points resistor wire for the 9.75V

Chicom is an abbreviation of Chinese Communist.
Old Sep 7, 2024 | 03:27 AM
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I’ve been asking around for it like ChiCom was a brand!

And I removed/replaced the resistor wire as I’m running an MSD distributor.
Old Sep 7, 2024 | 08:31 AM
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Update:
I put the solid state VR in and the Alt is holding steady at 13.7 V at idle.
Still wondering about the 9.75 at the brown wire on the previous test.

(Its A Duralast VR715 at autozone if anyone needs it.)
You can drill the rivets on the incorrect cover and screw the original back on if you’d like.



Last edited by Rallye469; Sep 7, 2024 at 08:36 AM.
Old Sep 9, 2024 | 09:27 AM
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I've been having issues with this as of late and printed this out to follow in the garage. Helped a great deal to have it next to me when working. It should be a sticky! The only issue I had was step 3 should read key off. step 4 is with key on. This is why you were getting 9v on terminal 4. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Still learning at 60
Old Sep 9, 2024 | 10:15 AM
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Let me go through that Word doc again. I will correct any typos. That's why I put it out there for y'all to shoot holes in it and ferret out the fat fingers I'm so well known for.

Pete I think the brown wire is for the bulb. Dont put that into concrete until I get home and look at a schematic. Unslee someone here has one.
I believe the potential on that wire is always there until something goes wrong with the charge system then the other side of the bulb goes to ground illumination the gen bulb. You could be reading that when you ground the meter to Neg.

Let me confirm this with a diagram or by reviewing my note standing in front of my car. I'm kind of in a hurry all day today and my head is foggy from the weekend. I want to make sure these trouble shooting steps are accurate before it goes to a possible sticky.

We definitely need some stickies for timing, QJets, tire sizes & offset,et al...
Old Sep 9, 2024 | 10:57 AM
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my head is foggy from the weekend.
The Bourbon?

No hurries, just happy to hear what you find when you find it.
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