OEM radio questions
OEM radio questions
72" CS.
So my stereo doesn't work just pulled it out. I'm trying to figure out if whats the matter. It appears there was no power hooked up. elec schematic from the chasis manual says yellow to is power to radio. Though it doesn't show where it goes to. I found a yellow wire under dash, tested it and it has juice. However, on the back of the radio right hand side there is a female three prong connector attached to radio. The left most pin is soldered to frame so I assume that one is gnd. Which of the other two should be the power connection? or do those go to speakers? If so where does the power go to.
Also, never delt with one of these radios before. There seems to be no speaker wires no obvious power connection.
So my stereo doesn't work just pulled it out. I'm trying to figure out if whats the matter. It appears there was no power hooked up. elec schematic from the chasis manual says yellow to is power to radio. Though it doesn't show where it goes to. I found a yellow wire under dash, tested it and it has juice. However, on the back of the radio right hand side there is a female three prong connector attached to radio. The left most pin is soldered to frame so I assume that one is gnd. Which of the other two should be the power connection? or do those go to speakers? If so where does the power go to.
Also, never delt with one of these radios before. There seems to be no speaker wires no obvious power connection.
You should have a 3-prong connector that comes from your front speaker and plugs into the receptacle in the back of the radio. From the back side, left to right, that 3-prong connector should have a black wire (ground to front speaker), a blue wire in the middle (to the front speaker), and a blank spot on the right. Fitting in the blank spot on the right should be your yellow wire (power).
Randy C.
Randy C.
Sorry but chassis manual does show a picture of wire leads. I'm still trying to figure out if radio works or not. Whats blue wire on left side (looking from back) for? Wire comes from the front right (from looking at the front) **** along with white and black wire which go into the back of the radio. Initially I thought it was a ground wire. It this for rear or front speaker fader? If so, is the radio chassis used for ground?
The blue wire on the rt is for the rear speaker. The rest is as Randy said. It grounds thru the case, brkt, and or the radio dash nuts. Here is some radio testing advice... It's difficult to test them in the car, because there are too many variables for them to not work. You don't know if your speaker is good, you don't know if your radio is good, you don't know if your antenna is good. Pull the radio bulb out and replace it. Then you will know if the radio powers up or not. Look at the right front side of the radio where the tuning shaft is and the 3 wires attach (one is that blue wire). Are there 3 open holes there? If so, your radio won't work unless you have the fader switch or a small jumper between 2 of them. If you have the shunt (jumper) in the holes you can ground the case + attach the power wire, turn it on and see if the bulb lights. Do not be cranking the volume with no speaker or antenna attached, you can damage the radio. You only need to turn it on. Try that...I'll tell you more....
Last edited by mrolds69; Apr 18, 2015 at 09:07 AM.
light comes on. I have a cheapo speaker to test it. is there a way to simulate the antenna connection w/o having to reinstall the stereo?
btw, the cigar lighter doesn't work. The wire that hooks into the back of it. I was checking it for power, when should it be hot? I don't get any reading with ignition in accessory position or the run position (car not started).
also, whats the trick to removing in case I determine it needs replacing?
btw, the cigar lighter doesn't work. The wire that hooks into the back of it. I was checking it for power, when should it be hot? I don't get any reading with ignition in accessory position or the run position (car not started).
also, whats the trick to removing in case I determine it needs replacing?
Last edited by davoaz; Apr 18, 2015 at 01:50 PM.
Ok...so I assume you have either a fader or a shunt that jumps 2 of those 3 holes? Right...you need a speaker of close impedance and antenna to bench test. I don't know if you can use something else for the antenna, I have a test antenna. If you hook your test speaker up with jumpers, when you turn the radio on...the speaker should like "thump". No high volume, just turn it on and see if you can feel or hear the speaker thump. If you have a fader turn it to the end rt...then left and see if it thumps either way. You don't need an antenna to try that, just don't crank the volume. You can go to almost any auto swap meet and get a junk used or new antenna for maybe 5.00 or so.
Last edited by mrolds69; Apr 18, 2015 at 01:58 PM.
so I assume you have either a fader or a shunt that jumps 2 of those 3 holes?
Would the oem interior **** with the three prongs be considered jumping 2 of the 3 holes?
Nm my cigar lighter post I figure out the wire should hot all times and the connector end came loose off the wire.
Would the oem interior **** with the three prongs be considered jumping 2 of the 3 holes?
Nm my cigar lighter post I figure out the wire should hot all times and the connector end came loose off the wire.
Here's a cheap antenna free SH. Not great, but it would work http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Ca...84dfc6&vxp=mtr
You should be able to use a length of wire and easily get AM signals. It's usually a lot easier to pick up AM than FM.
I got a 2-pack of these from Radio Shack back in the 80s and have used them for temporary antenna connections:
I got a 2-pack of these from Radio Shack back in the 80s and have used them for temporary antenna connections:
Last edited by Fun71; Apr 20, 2015 at 12:55 AM.
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