can anyone tell me how the wiring is set up on the ballast resistor?? I have new points, coil, cap, rotor and wires, still no spark, I was wondering if the wiring to the resistor might be screwed up. have looked at service manual and it's not much help. with the key on there is juice to resistor blk wires, looks like org wire from harness has no power, have tried several configurations with no help.,

 

You should have 12v to one side of the resister with the key on and a bit less on the other side and the coil + post. There will also be 12v supplied from the starter that should go to the other side of the resister or directly to the coil + terminal when the key is in the crank position. Just a note, I would relocate the ballast resister from the hose its tie wrapped to, the resister will get hot.

Have you checked your dwell to make sure your points are set right?

 

not getting any reading from meter, thinking because of no spark, cant set them manually because its a uniset, cant get feeler gauge in there

 

What a mess!

The ballast resistor obvious isn't factory, so someone has been messing with the wiring. I see two wires on one side of the resistor and one on the other, so I have no idea what's going on. The two black wires are awfully small. I can't tell where the wires to the coil are running from this photo. Personally I'd rip that all out and wire it from scratch.

Here's a quick troubleshooting tip.

1) STOP buying new parts until you know what's going on.
2) Disconnect all the wires going to the coil
3) Connect the wire from the distributor to the negative side of the coil.
4) Temporarily run a jumper wire from the + terminal of the battery to the + side of the coil.

Now crank the motor and see if you have spark, and/or set the dwell.

Car should run with this jumper, but you'll have to disconnect the jumper to turn it off, since it bypasses the key.

 

Trim the .016 feeler gauge to fit.

 

joe, are you sure ballast resistor isn't factory??my service manual shows a ballast resistor, although I know that's not where it's supposed to be mounted. Already tried what you said, still nothing, that's why i'm scratching my head, figured with hot wire, would at least get spark. eric, that's what i'm gonna have to do, trim a gauge, i'll go from there.

 

Also check to see that you have voltage to the post on the points when they are open with the key on.

 

Olds used a resistor wire built into the harness, NOT a separate ballast resistor. Olds never used those cheezy crimp terminals either. The DEFINITELY didn't tie wrap anything to the heater hose.

 

Maybe sticking the coil wire into the distributor cap would help..........................couldn't resist.

 

it was wire going to points, fired it up today, thanks everyone

 

Glad you found it. I chased that same wire issue for hours years ago.