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one more time i hope to get some help.
i swapped with a friend of mine the kick panels in my 72cs conv.
For sure a win in optical terms, but since that time my turn signals dont work any more.
yes, i have a manual and a wire diagram, but one of the pre owners fcked up the complete wiring (car had to be transferred to german light/turn signal, etc by law) the diagram doesnt help me too much. See below a photo what i mean 😔
it seems, that probably we cut/loosened a cable, maybe when we mounted/dismounted the hand brake.
Complete turn signal System seems to be powerless.
-normal turns signal dont work. No relay sound, no light, no indicator in the gauge.
-same for the hazard turn signal
-fuse box has power
any idea how can i start to search for the source of the problem?
What a rat's nest. Those stupid blue Scotchlock connectors should be illegal. Unfortunately, I don't know what "german light/turn signal" changes do to the wiring, so it's difficult to offer help here. The OEM turn signal flasher is on a pigtail behind the dash, to the left of the steering column, assuming these mods even use that. The stock wiring uses the same high-wattage filaments in the 1157 bulbs for both brake and turn signal circuits, and the turn signal switch will disconnect the brake light switch and instead connect the turn signal flasher when you use the turn signals. Is that how it still works, or has the mod somehow divorced the turn signals from the brake lights?
Appears you lost all power going to those lights - you have power via the fuse box you stated. Hopefully you have a simple test light. Start probing (stab with the needle point) each of the wires w/ a probe test light. This shouldn't be that difficult, IMO. Aside from the fact I agree w/ Joe this looks like a rat's nest. You should "label" every single one of those wires with your German light/turn signal. If all you did was to swap the kick-panels (and they worked before you swapped the kick-panels) I can't see why you wouldn't know the approximate location where this issue occurred.
Yep , this function is cancelled. You have to see here brake light and turn signal,at the same time, so I guess they added an additional cable and used another bulb with a 2nd filament.
I always saw this mess, but as everything worked I always thought „never touch a running system...“. Ah well.
As far as I understand the diagram, normally hazard and normal turn signals are independent systems? So I guess they put them „together“ in some way and i killed a mass or power cable. But there are tons of cut cables, not connected cables, etc...bs 🤯
I also found another strange additional mass cable mounted to the hazard flasher....oh man. No idea where to start. And i am not sooooo bad in electric, but at the moment i just dont want anymore. This car really starts to make me mad.
Nevertheless, thx for the support. I will try to trace the problem starting from the column, when i see things a bit more clear i return with additional questions. Guess in a few weeks, pretty pissed off atm.
Clean up that mess. It isn't that difficult. The most difficult issue is the time required to clean this up. Be methodical, be deliberate, be exacting. There is no way to understand this mess unless you meticulously identify and label each wire. No excuses - just get it done so you can develop the confidence you need to ensure you have it correct. It takes times - so what, do it correctly.
One final note. I am not trying to beat you up here, but I will be critical of what I see. Wiring 101 - NEVER leave an open wire end without being covered. I don't care if it does nothing. If it does nothing, then remove the entire wire, cut it and cap it - don't leave that open end.
You may find it beneficial to draw yourself a new wiring diagram showing the modifications, as you puzzle it out.
I think there are a couple more folks located in GER that are also members here on CO. Perhaps one will see your post and be able to share some insight. Or better yet, C.O. allows a search of Members, filtering by location. You may want to try contacting one or more directly by PM.
BTW, FWIW that open-end BROWN wire with the single WHITE stripe is the 24 gauge (10 Ohms) resistance wire. I am providing this information from my 1971 CS wiring diagram; therefore, I cannot state with 100% confidence this is the same in your 1972 wiring schematic, but it most likely is the same. Additionally, I do not know why the resistance wire is not connected. I suspect (perhaps) your distributor has been upgraded to a GM HEI - I really do not know.
BTW, FWIW that open-end BROWN wire with the single WHITE stripe is the 24 gauge (10 Ohms) resistance wire.
Sorry, no that is not the resistance wire. That is the wire that goes to the switch on the e-brake pedal. That metal connector snaps over the pin switch on the pedal assembly.
Sorry, no that is not the resistance wire. That is the wire that goes to the switch on the e-brake pedal. That metal connector snaps over the pin switch on the pedal assembly.
Sorry, no that is not the resistance wire. That is the wire that goes to the switch on the e-brake pedal. That metal connector snaps over the pin switch on the pedal assembly.
Of course, I just walked out to the man-cave and viewed my own e-brake wire! Thanks, again.
Yep, this is indeed the cable for the brake switch. Found that already out when we disassembled that.
you are right in what you are saying, i should clean up that mess, but what you guys see, is just the top of the mountain..... 😇 there are switches without function, switches which have a function (but I cant see which function).
When I got the car, it started with the ignition key, but it kept running even if you took the key out. They had a additional switch in the glove box to kill the motor. All the ignition stuff was made new by me, this is fixed. Just for givinG you an idea what kind of electric i have in my cs 😇
...there are switches without function, switches which have a function (but I cant see which function).
When I got the car, it started with the ignition key, but it kept running even if you took the key out. They had a additional switch in the glove box to kill the motor. All the ignition stuff was made new by me, this is fixed. Just for givinG you an idea what kind of electric i have in my cs 😇
It will not help if a guy has a similar problem, but I got it working again. I dont have a normal flasher anymore. Instead, both circuits have been redirected to the hazard flasher, and they used a 3pole instead a 2 pole relay, and the third (bent) pole was connected to ground somewhere. Seems that we cut that one when we assembled the hand brake. Connected to new ground, voila, everything is working again. For now I leave it as it is, re-newing electrical will be one of my winter projects on the bucket list 😎
