Need Rally Pac Rebuild/Refurb

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Old March 31st, 2012 | 08:30 AM
  #1  
Joker442's Avatar
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Need Rally Pac Rebuild/Refurb

I have a Rally Pac set that I took out of a wreck many years ago. Don't know if it works. Any thing I can do to test things myself? If I wanted to send it in for a refurb (cosmetically it looks good) can you guys recommend someone?
Since my 69 442 didnt come with a Pac, the wiring /sending units are incorrect (obviously). Do they sell a conversion set? More to the point a conversion harness that would make the wiring changes for you?
Old March 31st, 2012 | 09:07 AM
  #2  
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Randy C.
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,268
From: Albany, OR
If your existing wire harness is in good shape, I recommend just changing it to accomodate your factory gauges and tic-toc-tac. I've attached a picture that appeared in Journey With Olds several years ago, put together by Mr. Bob Cline, on how to change over the idiot light harness to a gauge harness. In addition to what's there, you need to change the oil pressure and water temperature sending units. As well, there is a dark green wire in a harness of several wires that runs down your steering column from the ignition switch that needs to simply be disconnected (I just backed that wire out of the harness under the dash and taped it off). That dark green wire is part of the "check circuit" that lights up your "temp" idiot light when you start the car, after which the light goes out. If you leave that dark green wire connected, it will "peg" your temp gauge every time you start the car, after which the temp needle will go back to normal. You don't want that as it will eventually ruin the temp gauge.

If your '69 has a clock in the third pod from the left, conversion to tic-toc-tac is real easy because you already have the dash light harness (grey wire) and the 12V wire for the clock. With the tic-toc-tac, all you have to do is run a third wire (brown was the factory color of that wire) from the tac, through the firewall and to the negative side of your coil.

As far as testing these units to see if they work, I highly recommend sending both pods to a reputable gauge and tach repair facility - a number of them advertise in Hemmings Motor News. I sent mine to D & M Restoration, 57-B Creekside Park Court, Greenville SC 29615, phone 800-722-0854 or 864-254-9989 and they did a great job (web site www.DandMrestoration.com).

I did the same thing to my '68 4-4-2 that you want to do to your '69. I found a set of gauges and tic-toc-tac in a car in Oakland, CA, in the mid-80s and picked up everything for $25. I'm sure glad I did it back then and I do enjoy having these features in my car now.

Randy C.
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Old March 31st, 2012 | 12:08 PM
  #3  
Joker442's Avatar
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Thanks!

Looks like you just flip the connector and reorder the wires. Seems simple enough. Coincidence, I picked my set up for $25 bucks also! If you dont mind me asking, how much did it cost to get your gauges redone?
Old March 31st, 2012 | 09:09 PM
  #4  
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Randy C.
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,268
From: Albany, OR
I would call D&M and get prices directly from them as I don't recall exactly what I spent. It seems to me they charge $75 just to check everything out and it goes up from there, depending upon what needs to be done. My gauges were fine and the clock was fine but the tach was way out of whack! They worked with my original circuitry on the tach but I don't remember the cost. As I recall, though, they have completely new circuitry that they will install (if the old circuitry is bad) for around $300. But call them to verify - I'm just shooting off the top of my head.

There are also other businesses in Hemmings that do the same thing. I recommend checking them out, too.

You are right about flipping the connector and repositioning the wires for the gauge pod. Remember that you have to add the brown wire for the tach for it to work. If you just have a blank pod in the right hand space, you will also have to get a 12V lead (orange wire) for the clock, and instrument panel light harness (grey wire) to light up the tach at night. There is also a ground wire (black) that runs between the right side attachment site for the speedo pod and the left side attachment spot for the tach/clock. And don't forget about disconnecting the the green wire (check circuit for idiot lights) so your temp gauge will work properly.

I used my original underdash wire harness for idiot lights and everything worked as it should after the conversion.

Randy C.
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