Left turn signal not working

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Old June 7th, 2020, 04:46 PM
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Left turn signal not working

Looking for some guidance for my 69 cutlass. I’m not the best at electrical. Left side turn signal isn’t working. Had a bad tail light bulb and replaced thinking that would be it. Brake light now works but still no turn signal. Right side works fine including indicator light on dash but nothing works on the left. The left indicator light also doesn’t light. Turn on the hazards and same thing, right is fine but left is dead. Need a new turn signal flasher or am I missing something? Thanks!
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Old June 7th, 2020, 05:29 PM
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If the left tail light and the left brake light both work , then the problem may be in the turn signal switch .
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Old June 7th, 2020, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Charlie Jones
If the left tail light and the left brake light both work , then the problem may be in the turn signal switch .
Correct both the left tail light and the left brake light work. When I move the lever down for the left signal I don’t get a sharp “click” like when I move the lever up for the right signal. The right click feels more “crisp”.
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Old June 7th, 2020, 10:08 PM
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If there is no voltage at the socket, look at the turn signal switch. If there is voltage at the socket the contact may be stuck and not contacting the bulb.
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Old June 8th, 2020, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
If there is no voltage at the socket, look at the turn signal switch. If there is voltage at the socket the contact may be stuck and not contacting the bulb.
The brake light (which is working) uses the same wire and filament in the bulb as the turn signal. The first place the brake and turn circuits diverge is at the switch. Look there.
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Old June 8th, 2020, 05:00 AM
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Based on your description of how the lever feels and sounds when you push down vs. up I suspect your problem is the switch. I have two '69's and am familiar with this. When you pull the old switch out and look at it it's obvious why they go bad. I'd describe it as a design flaw in the molded piece that is intended to deflect when you push the lever. One side is very thin comparatively and this is usually the side that breaks. What results is the switch works fine in one direction (via the lever) but feels sloppy and doesn't engage in the other.
You can buy a new switch and the install isn't bad. You will have to pull the steering wheel and the upper assembly behind it to access it. The harness then passes down the column to where the ignition switch is located. Do the electrical checks suggested above to be sure but my money (based on experience) is that the switch is bad.
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Old June 8th, 2020, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by acavagnaro
Based on your description of how the lever feels and sounds when you push down vs. up I suspect your problem is the switch. I have two '69's and am familiar with this. When you pull the old switch out and look at it it's obvious why they go bad. I'd describe it as a design flaw in the molded piece that is intended to deflect when you push the lever. One side is very thin comparatively and this is usually the side that breaks. What results is the switch works fine in one direction (via the lever) but feels sloppy and doesn't engage in the other.
You can buy a new switch and the install isn't bad. You will have to pull the steering wheel and the upper assembly behind it to access it. The harness then passes down the column to where the ignition switch is located. Do the electrical checks suggested above to be sure but my money (based on experience) is that the switch is bad.
Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I’ll order a new switch and work on it this weekend. I have a 69 sport steering wheel I’ve been procrastinating to put on so might as well put it on. I’ll touch base when I replace the switch.
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Old August 21st, 2020, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by drew1987gn
Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I’ll order a new switch and work on it this weekend. I have a 69 sport steering wheel I’ve been procrastinating to put on so might as well put it on. I’ll touch base when I replace the switch.
So I replaced the switch. everything works!! I take my car to work yesterday and no left signal again..... I get to work and put the hazards on. Both fronts and the right rear are blinking, no left rear. Brake lights still work. I switch the rear bulbs and try again. Same result, no left, the right blinks so it's not the bulb. Put the hazards on again and still both fronts blink and the right rear blinks. Anybody have suggestions? Thank you!
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Old August 21st, 2020, 07:57 AM
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A ground wire somewhere not making a good connection? I know I had that trouble with my passenger side front blinker.

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Old August 21st, 2020, 09:33 AM
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As mentioned, check the ground on that left rear bulb socket. Its either that or your switch went bad again.
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Old August 21st, 2020, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyBs68S
As mentioned, check the ground on that left rear bulb socket. Its either that or your switch went bad again.
I'll check the ground. It's a brand new switch from Fusicks. That would suck if I had to replace again. If the switch was faulty wouldn't the front left blinker not work also?
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Old August 21st, 2020, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by drew1987gn
I'll check the ground. It's a brand new switch from Fusicks. That would suck if I had to replace again. If the switch was faulty wouldn't the front left blinker not work also?
Correct, if your LF turn signal is working, then its not the turn signal switch (it wasn't clear to me from your previous post that was the case). Very likely an intermittent ground in that LR lamp socket. If that checks out, the next thing to check is the wiring from the turn signal switch to the LR socket, it may have been nicked/cut sometime in the past and is now giving you fits.

Last edited by JohnnyBs68S; August 21st, 2020 at 11:43 AM.
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Old August 21st, 2020, 11:46 AM
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I just want to be clear also.... The LF and the LR do not work when I use the turn signal, the LF works and the LR does not work when I turn on the hazards. Still a intermittent faulty ground?
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Old August 22nd, 2020, 10:29 AM
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Did you verify the bulb in the LR is an 1157 bulb? The dual element bulbs can easily be overlooked and a single element 1156 bulb can be forced into the bulb socket. This can cause some, but not all of the issues you are describing. Do your turn indicators come on in the dash when you step on the brakes? That usually means the wrong bulb was installed. If not, start looking at all ground connections for the bulb sockets. Even if they look clean, there can be corrosion where they make contact with the base metal. Wiggle and twist on the socket to make sure it is making a good connection to ground.
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Old August 22nd, 2020, 11:49 AM
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The hazard flashers and the turn signals use the same filament, same wires, and same ground as the turn signal. If the hazard flashers work, all that must be good.
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