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Instrument Cluster dark, interior lights work, charging battery light on.
‘84 Regency 98 / 98 Regency, I still can’t figure the order I say all that in.
I’m not even entirely sure what’s supposed to be lit up on a car this old, but regardless, I find it a little odd the entire instrument cluster is just black. Lights pop up when I start her, like the check seatbelt and all that, and the overhead light and door lights come on. The alternator is good ( tested ) and the battery is new, so ... that’s more or less proven it’s not the problem.
Is your alternator belt new and is it tight? Also, is the alternator new new or new remanufactured? Being in the auto parts industry, I see a lot of new remanufactured rotating electrical components come back due to them not working. For peace of mind, I always buy new new when able.
The charge, temp and oil warning lamps should come on when you turn ignition to RUN, and all go out once the engine is started and running. Diesel cars also have a water in fuel lamp that functions same way. Not all lamp cavities are used, it depends on how the car is optioned out.
Archer, how much mechanical skill do you have? There are ways to test lamps that won't come on before disassembling the dash to replace them (but on an 80s full-size that's not heinously difficult).
Right now, with that CHARGE light on, you need a voltmeter. Check the alternator output voltage at the output post (you may have to pull a plastic cap off to access it). With engine running and alternator operating, voltage should be 14 volts. If not, bad alternator.
Then read voltage at the positive battery terminal under same conditions. Should be 14 volts. If not, wiring issue. My money would be on the fusible links down at the starter. The ones on my 83 Custom Cruiser wagon were corroded and one had actually broken, preventing a charge path to the battery.
A simple check here: run a 12 gauge jumper wire from alt output post to the battery positive. Start the engine. If the CHARGE lamp goes out and you then have 14v at the battery, it's more than likely the fuse links.
Good luck. 80-84 Ninety Eight coupes are uncommon and just super stylish.
Right now, with that CHARGE light on, you need a voltmeter. Check the alternator output voltage at the output post (you may have to pull a plastic cap off to access it). With engine running and alternator operating, voltage should be 14 volts. If not, bad alternator.
The picture I posted is a little decieving — the charge light is so dim, even in total darkness it’s almost not even visible. My dad wonders if it necessarily means something is fooey or not, but considering our other problems I’m sure it is.
I’m going to do a volt test later today. Someone else mentioned there might be rot on the terminals themselves ( I’m poorly paraphrasing ) so who knows that’s the culprit until I do some surgery.
Whenever I had a dim charge or alt light while car was running it was a bad diode in alternator. It would still charge so checks didn't show problem. Not a expert but just what has happened to me.... Good Luck.
October 1st, 2020, 03:10 PM
