Installing Trunk Release '70 Cutlass
#1
Installing Trunk Release '70 Cutlass
I looked for a good step by step thread on installing a trunk release, but didn't find one! Maybe this will help someone like me who has the pieces but isn't sure what to do!
First you need the proper switch and wiring. Removing the glove box and door makes things much easier and only takes a few minutes. I found an NOS release button, and I bought a power wire and jumper from Motor City - don't get me started. Both connector ends fell off the power wire and I had to strip and solder to make the wire work. Anyway, drill the hole in the dash where the dimple is, just above the glove box light switch (or the second dimple if you don't have a glove box light). Get a step drill that ends at 3/4", that way you won't drill the hole too big. Factory manual says drill a .750" hole, so I did.
It's easy to slide the new switch into place and install the jumper wire onto the factory orange harness wire. Mine was currently connected to the glove box light orange wire, so I unplugged it, reconnected the glove box light to the other side of the jumper, then ran the longer end of the jumper wire to the top of the new trunk switch.
Here you can see the trunk switch, the orange jumper wire running back to the harness, the white/clear connector from the glove box attached to the jumper, and the wire going to the trunk attached to the bottom of the switch. I connected everything prior to full installation for a test - and good thing, or I would have had a non-functioning release. The wire ends were both bad and needed repair.
Once I repaired the wire to the trunk, I needed to run it down the passenger side to the trunk. I didn't care to remove the front seat, but you can, and I had to remove the back seat. I ran the wire under the carpet pad and under the sound deadener mat using an unfolded coat hanger and masking tape to thread it under the seat. I ran the end up under the firewall insulation near the center console and up over the heater box to meet up with the wiring from the glove box light. Here you can see me pulling the wire up to the right of the defroster duct using the coat hanger.
I ran the wire on the left side of the rear seat belt and up through the larger hole into the trunk as the factory had done.
Then using the trusty coat hanger, I snaked through the trunk lid from the trunk release to the opening in the trunk lid. I ran the wire through the trunk hinge and up and through the trunk lid until I could connect it with the actuator.
I connected the wires and attached the loose wire in the trunk using standard bent connectors similar to what GM used - I ran the wire to the far right to get it out of the way of anything in the trunk.
Push the button and the trunk opens!!! All in all with the soldering of the wires and removal of the seats, plus a couple cold ones to make me take my time and do it right, the entire process from glove box door/box removal to opening the trunk remotely took about 5 hours.
First you need the proper switch and wiring. Removing the glove box and door makes things much easier and only takes a few minutes. I found an NOS release button, and I bought a power wire and jumper from Motor City - don't get me started. Both connector ends fell off the power wire and I had to strip and solder to make the wire work. Anyway, drill the hole in the dash where the dimple is, just above the glove box light switch (or the second dimple if you don't have a glove box light). Get a step drill that ends at 3/4", that way you won't drill the hole too big. Factory manual says drill a .750" hole, so I did.
It's easy to slide the new switch into place and install the jumper wire onto the factory orange harness wire. Mine was currently connected to the glove box light orange wire, so I unplugged it, reconnected the glove box light to the other side of the jumper, then ran the longer end of the jumper wire to the top of the new trunk switch.
Here you can see the trunk switch, the orange jumper wire running back to the harness, the white/clear connector from the glove box attached to the jumper, and the wire going to the trunk attached to the bottom of the switch. I connected everything prior to full installation for a test - and good thing, or I would have had a non-functioning release. The wire ends were both bad and needed repair.
Once I repaired the wire to the trunk, I needed to run it down the passenger side to the trunk. I didn't care to remove the front seat, but you can, and I had to remove the back seat. I ran the wire under the carpet pad and under the sound deadener mat using an unfolded coat hanger and masking tape to thread it under the seat. I ran the end up under the firewall insulation near the center console and up over the heater box to meet up with the wiring from the glove box light. Here you can see me pulling the wire up to the right of the defroster duct using the coat hanger.
I ran the wire on the left side of the rear seat belt and up through the larger hole into the trunk as the factory had done.
Then using the trusty coat hanger, I snaked through the trunk lid from the trunk release to the opening in the trunk lid. I ran the wire through the trunk hinge and up and through the trunk lid until I could connect it with the actuator.
I connected the wires and attached the loose wire in the trunk using standard bent connectors similar to what GM used - I ran the wire to the far right to get it out of the way of anything in the trunk.
Push the button and the trunk opens!!! All in all with the soldering of the wires and removal of the seats, plus a couple cold ones to make me take my time and do it right, the entire process from glove box door/box removal to opening the trunk remotely took about 5 hours.
#4
Post in Parts Wanted and I'm sure you'll get replies from members who have what you need!
Last edited by BSiegPaint; April 22nd, 2018 at 02:17 PM.
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