I bought a 1970 Rallye 350 with the original V8 engine about 2 months ago. It does have an HEI distributor installed. It was running Ok for a few days but then my electrical issues began. My original problem was the starter not turning over. I could hear a click but no crank. I pulled the starter double checked it and it was in fact bad. Installed a new starter and solenoid now the motor will crank but will not start. I also had some arcing coming from the solenoid area. Pulled the starter again to check the voltage on the three leads. Battery charge was 12.8 volts.

• Positive lead from Battery had 12.8 volts.
• Lead that connects to the "S" terminal has 12.6 volts with ignition in start position.
• Lead that connects to the "R" terminal has 12.4 with ignition in the Run position.

I am assuming I have the Voltage at the lead that connects to the "R" terminal because on the HEI distributor. I decided to leave the "R" terminal disconnected to see if that was causing the arcing. It appears to have fix the it, but the car still will not start.
Next I installed a inline spark tester and I am not getting any ignition. So I put a volt meter on the BATT + terminal of the distributor, and it read 12.5 volts. During a crank cycle it would drop to 10.5 volts. I am not sure if this is good.
Next I connected a lead from the Battery Positive post directly to the BATT + terminal of the distributor and still no ignition.
What I don't understand is the engine would start before the starter problem. I am not sure that the voltage on the"R" terminal was good on the solenoid. Am I correct in leaving it disconnected? I have read through several post on here but not sure I understand the purpose of the "R"terminal.
I am not sure I should be getting that big a voltage drop at the distributor during start. Also since I put 12 volts directly to the distributor from the battery and still no ignition, should I assume my distributor is now bad. I really don't know how to troubleshoot the HEI system or what brand it is.
Any help would be appreciated, let me know what I am missing here.
Thanks,

 

Sounds like your HEI module is bad.

That and you need to hire a proofreader and fix your spacebar.

I'd bring the module to a large auto parts store and have them test it.
Then have them test the replacement they sell you before you leave the building.

- Eric

 

I will pull the HEI module and get it tested. Is 10.5 volts at the Distributor BATT + ok during start?
Thanks,
P.S, I will get my spacebar looked at too.

 

No 10.5 is low, has the resistance wire been removed? The R terminal provides full battery voltage from the solenoid to the Batt+ if its still connected there. The sparking could be when you reinstalled the starter, possibly a pinched wire or the terminal is arcing to metal nearby.

 

I have to disagree somewhat, Eric.

10.5V at the distributor during cranking is not unexpected, if you consider a normal amount of corrosion to all of the connections between the battery and the distributor.
Sure 11 or 11.5V would be better, but an HEI should have no problem creating a strong spark at 10.5V, which is really what he was asking.

As for the sparking, only he can tell for sure where it's coming from, but, obviously, we don't want any of that.

The R terminal on the starter solenoid connects directly to the (+)12V that is cranking the starter, while the starter is cranking, to supply a full 12V to bypass the ballast resistor of the points ignition while cranking. Since you have HEI, your ballast resistor should be bypassed already - you can leave the R terminal unconnected, or you can connect a wire from there to your HEI BATT terminal - your choice.

- Eric

 

Yesterday I had the HEI module tested and they said it was good. Since they were not very expensive, I made the decision to buy a new one anyways, along with a new MSD Coil, Cap, and Rotor.
Still no spark using the Car Ignition System or with 12 Volts directly from the battery. My knowledge of this system is not the best, but I think the only thing left is the Pick-up coil. I have never pulled a distributor before, so I guess its time to do a little reading. If anyone can think of something I am missing please let me know.

 

I agree, the pickup seems to be the only thing left.

It's not hard to remove, and not expensive.

Note that the problem is often in the wires and connectors that connect the pickup (or occasionally the module).

- Eric

 

Eric and (other) Eric, Thanks for the help.
I ordered a new pickup coil today, should get it tomorrow. Can you suggest a good method to test the distributor once I have it removed. I would sure hate to put it all back together and still have the same problem.

 

Connect up the power and a spark plug and spin it with your fingers and see if the spark plug sparks.

- Eric

 

Can't believe I even asked that.

 

I'm sure there are more elegant ways...

- Eric

 

The HEI really needs 12.6v or battery voltage to operate correctly. What is the voltage measurement with the engine off and the key on?

 

It was 12.5V at the distributor BATT+ terminal . My Battery was at 12.8V and I also tried connecting directly to the Battery with no luck.

 

Then your good to go.

 

I hope your right. We'll see once I get a new pick-up coil.

 

Problem solved.
The green wire on the Pickup coil had a bad solder at the terminal and had apparently come loose. Since I had already ordered a new one, decided to change it.
I also decided to leave the wire that was connected to the "R" terminal on the Starter disconnected for now. So I just taped it up and secured it out of the way.
Thanks for the help.

 

Wtg, now on to another project.

 

Great!

Now you've fixed the part that was actually broken, instead of just replacing things randomly, you've got a spare of a part that may fail one day, and you know more about how your car works.

All and all, a good day (or few days)!

- Eric