Ignition lock won't lock
#1
Ignition lock won't lock
I'm in the process of installing a Grant wheel, and figured while I was there I'd put a new ignition lock in as the old one could be turned without the key. After fighting for 3 hours trying to get the old one out, I finally got it and the new one went right back into place. Checked it out of curiosity, and it's doing the same thing. Ita nowhere close to the "lock" spot notated on the column. Am I missing something?
To make matters worse, I had the canceling cam come apart (assuming the piece that activates the horn-spring, and two pieces.. how do those go back in. I also noticed the little pin that locks the steering wheel does not fully retract, so the wheel can do whatever whenever.
For reference, this is a 69 442. Previous owner converted to console shift, however it looks like they just removed the indicator and shift lever.
Not sure where to start, but I definitely need some help before I start beating on the thing..ha.
Thanks.
To make matters worse, I had the canceling cam come apart (assuming the piece that activates the horn-spring, and two pieces.. how do those go back in. I also noticed the little pin that locks the steering wheel does not fully retract, so the wheel can do whatever whenever.
For reference, this is a 69 442. Previous owner converted to console shift, however it looks like they just removed the indicator and shift lever.
Not sure where to start, but I definitely need some help before I start beating on the thing..ha.
Thanks.
#2
Maybe I just had to sleep on it.
Just went out and used an old shifter from another car to move the column shift around..and found the sweet spot. Key now turns back to "lock" and the pin comes all the way out for the steering wheel.
Still need to figure out the horn/canceling cam assembly (spring and 2 other little pieces) but then I can reinstall everything and be done with the column.
Just went out and used an old shifter from another car to move the column shift around..and found the sweet spot. Key now turns back to "lock" and the pin comes all the way out for the steering wheel.
Still need to figure out the horn/canceling cam assembly (spring and 2 other little pieces) but then I can reinstall everything and be done with the column.
#3
Are you talking about the plastic round ring that the horn wire connects to? Not sure what would be 2 pieces other then the brass ring coming off plastic hub. Sometimes the sleeve that holds the wire on horn hub breaks and you can take a dremel and cut another slot to put wire back in place. Any pictures?
#5
Starting with the 1969 model year, automakers were required to lock the shifter with the column. GM did this with a link from the steering column to the trans, even with floor shifters. People routinely removed this to install headers. The steering column is designed so you can't lock the column unless the trans is in park (for obvious reasons in case someone tried to lock the steering while driving. If the backdrive linkage is missing, the collar on the column can vibrate out of the PARK position, preventing the key from turning to the LOCK position.
#7
Yeah, if there's no trans for the backdrive linkage to connect to, it probably isn't connected. Next time you have a problem with the lock cylinder, grab the collar on the steering column and rotate it counterclockwise as far as it will go before you try to turn the key to LOCK.
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September 28th, 2020 07:36 AM