deaddds

Ok, I opened up the column because the lock cylinder would not go to lock position and key was not needed to start. Shifter works correctly in the console. I replaced the ignition lock so now the key does not fall out and operates correctly now. Neutral switch lockout is operating correctly as the car only starts in park or neutral. Now the pain in the *** part.... I can put the column back together and the car will start and shut down just fine, meaning the lock cylinder will return to the off position so the key can be removed. Once I put the car in drive or reverse and return it to park, the friggin ignition lock will not return to the off position and the friggin key cannot be removed. I can't find the neutral switch binding but after taking the friggin column down for the hundredth time, I can manually disengage the rod from the switch and get the pawl to move that extra little bit to allow the cylinder to go to lock. Buckle it all back together and the lock works right until I shift, then rinse and repeat. What am I missing in the mechanism? Clearly I'm missing how the two interact. Anyone know the problem?

mrolds69

I'm not up on an 84, but normally on an earlier car, that would be a backdrive adjustment under the car. That's the linkage that goes from the bottom of the column to the trans. You loosen it, make sure the sleeve on the column turns all the way in park. The other possibility is the sector gear inside the column is not in the right position. But I think it's a back drive problem. Does the steering wheel lock in park?

joe_padavano

^^^this.

deaddds

The steering wheel locks in park when the ignition lock is in the full off position. That in turn locks out the trans from shifting.Currently, the engine is off but the key will not make it to the off position so the trans is able to shift.

joe_padavano

If you temporarily disconnect the backdrive linkage, does the key lock correctly (and turn all the way to ACC)? If so, the problem is the backdrive linkage. If not, the problem is still in the column. Failure of the sector gear and/or die cast rack is common in these columns. Repair parts are readily available.

deaddds

I have to assume the sector is in the right position because the funky rod that fits into it can only insert one way and that tab on the rod can only engage the end of the ignition cylinder to reach the full off position one way. I found if I remove the neutral switch I can pull the actuater rod downward to get the ignition switch back to full off position. Then I can reassemble the switch and rod on the column and the ignition switch turns on and off just fine. Goes into each position it is supposed to when turning the key. It can't be the switch binding up can it? Once I have it all together I can turn the friggin key on and off numerous times and it turns fine. Shift at the console and it causes the lock cylinder to cease making the off position.

deaddds

Where do I find info on the backdrive linkage in the service manual? Is this adjustment difficult?

deaddds

Also, I assume the sector and rack are ok as there were no cracks or pieces missing from them when I looked them over.

joe_padavano

It's in Chapter 7A (Automatic Transmission On-Car Service). FYI, your car doesn't have an NSS. The steering column has a mechanical blocking linkage that prevents the key from turning to START if the shifter is not in PARK or NEUTRAL. Yes, there is a switch that LOOKS like an NSS, but all this does is operate the backup lights and tell the ECU when the car is in gear or in park. You will note the this "park/neutral switch" does not have the two heavy gauge purple wires for the starter circuit.

deaddds

Aha, so I better also check to be sure the rod is positioned correctly in that it turns on the back up lights since it's not a neutral switch issue.

deaddds

Back to the garage.....

deaddds

Well I disconnected the shift cable per manual, set the shifter in park and manually ran the shifter on the trans to ensure it too was in park. Lubricated all the linkage since I was already underneath and reset the cable. Seemed to work at first so I thought I was good. Tried it again and same issue with the lock cylinder. I did find however that I can manually move the plastic collar that seats up with the lower part of the dash, the housing that you clip the shift indicator wire to, just a little after the shift rod is in park and that allows the lock cylinder to click back to the off position. So however that bowl part of the column is tied into this sequence, it appears that's the holdup causing the issue. Is there a way to correct this to stay put? I wonder if the little clips on the bowl are weak. They all look to be there and not broken.