I've got a 63 Dynamic 88 daily driver and during all the cold weather we've been having lately, the left turn signal quit cancelling (I have to turn it off manually). The right turn signal has always turned off a little early (as soon as I turn the wheel), but left has never given me a problem. I took the steering wheel off and everything looks good as far as I can tell. I cleaned all the parts and greased them and put it back together, but it still doesn't cancel. It "clicks" into each position fine when I manually switch it left, neutral, and right. What actually "cancels" the signal?? I thought it was the little rod on the back of the steering wheel, but maybe I am missing something (or maybe I have it lined up wrong)??? Any help is greatly appreciated, otherwise I might end up going left around the world

 

Count the turns from all the way right to all the way left, divide by 2 and turn the wheel to center that many turns. Is it straight, if not pull it and reattach and realign the front end? Will the directional work properly in that position?

 

There should be a little round spring that attaches to the turn signal switch that contacts the cancel cam on the wheel i think?Not 100 % on 63 my.

 

I don't see anything missing, but I guess it could have fallen down in the column?? I couldn't figure out how to get below the signal component (to the part of the column where the shifter is located). Would the little round spring be on the wheel itself or the column? If that was the issue, wouldn't it not cancel either way? It does cancel going right, just not left. I'll see if I can get out in the garage Wednesday night and take a picture - it is actually some amazing engineering in there - all metal parts and two little BB's that the signal rides on with a little wheel and a spring that gives you the "click" feeling when it is in each position.

 

I'm pretty sure that his '63 has the turnsignal switch at the base of the column, actuated by a rod that comes down from the top, so the "conventional" "missing or broken cancel spring" diagnosis won't apply.

- Eric

 

Well, what DOES cancel the TSig on such a model then?
I admit my ignorance here.

Here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/72-73-74-75-...e4b621&vxp=mtr

are the usual [to me, circa 1968 models] cancel springs, there is a left and right, and 'most any parts store [HELP sxn] will have these also.

If you see but ONE of these in there where your wheels extenda-pin would touch it, not two, that's yer problem.

Pretty ingenious engineering, that spring that slides aside one way but resists and pushes back when the pin comes by the other way.

 

I can't speak to the full size cars, but on my 62 the cancel function is performed by a long spring pin pressed into the underside of the steering wheel hub. There's a metal spring mechanism in the column that looks like the plastic turn signal switch cancelling feature on the later model switches that is snapped back to the OFF position by this spring pin when the wheel is turned.

 

I think MDchanic is right - maybe I'm looking at the wrong end of the column. Everything up top is working correctly when you switch it left-neutral-right - it pops into each setting. It's just it doesn't pop back into neutral "automatically" when you turn left. There is a rod at the top that moves back and forth that goes down into the column (I just don't know where). So is there something down at the bottom of the column to look for???

 

Upon further review, it appears that Octania is correct. It looks like the spring is weak or a little tab that holds it has broken off. Now I need to find the correct spring!! It is like the ones that Octania linked to, but it is one full spring all the way across.

 

Take it to a good hardware store - they should be able to get you really close.

- Eric

 

Eric, it's not a "spring" that you would normally think of. Look at Octania's link on ebay. His link shows two springs, but this one is just one spring that has those two curly Q's on the end like those.

 

The round spring i was talking about is the springs octania posted,there's one on each side of ts switch,one for lh cancel one for rh cancel,you say there's only one maybe that's your problem.Could you post a picture?

 

Here is what I need. I found it on oldsobsolete: http://www.oldsobsolete.com/products...g-nos-1929955/. Pretty expensive for a spring! Anyone know where I can order one cheaper, I haven't found anywhere else yet.

I'm really hoping that I don't need the whole piece, they list that for $275!!

 

Interesting. Definitely different from the commonly available springs for later models.

I'm sure someone on here will have one, or else you may be able to find one elsewhere online or in a junkyard.



- Eric

 

This is not the kind of part that is sitting on a shelf somewhere, just waiting to be bought. Therefore the high price.

If you can find one at a salvage/jun/bone yard, grab it!

See the msgs posted here by BigBlue63. He is acquiring a '63 parts car. It will have this spring.

 

$30 for that spring does not seem too bad.

It's just music wire, you could bend one yourself. That'd take a couple hours to get it right. I could extract one from the parts car, but that's $20 in gas and an hour or two to get at it, plus an hour of driving... now the $30 new part looks pretty cheap. It's not like any of us can dash to the local boneyard and get one from a partially dismantled car these days.

You could always try "millions and zillions" and pay oh maybe $400 for a broken one.
:-)

 

I'm thinking about purchasing the ones you (Octania) linked to on ebay. I think those may work the same as this one. The wire in between the two "curls" doesn't seem to serve a purpose and the ones you linked should fit securely in the place where it mounts. I'd only be out $7. The only question is "are the curls the right size?"

 

They should also have the newer springs at your local auto parts store on Dorman Help! cards.

- Eric

 

Right
These days, if you can wait a day or three, it's often cheaper to click and buy and have delivered than to take the time and GAS MONEY [which is by no means negligible anymore] to dash to the store.

It's a cheap gamble, but, frankly, I doubt if the TS switch will have the proper holding tangs for the other style. I reckon that connecting piece serves a function. Any chance your original part is just out of place on one end? Something easy?

 

I can't figure out exactly what is wrong with it. If it is not the spring itself, then the hole in the cam has gotten "wollered" out. I didn't want to risk breaking the spring by removing it. The TA springs are supposed to be in on Monday, so I'll let you guys know!

 

Can you post a picture-s that can help us see the issue?

 

Just a couple of points:

The $28 price is not all that bad if it corrects your problem
The spring in question is made of a pretty substantial gauge of wire. It is very unlikely that removal would cause it to break.

The BigBlue63 link to a source for the spring did not pan out?

 

IT WORKED!!! You can use the springs in Octania's link. Once I took the old one out, I checked it out. It wasn't broken, but I think it had just lost its tension. When the rod would come back by to cancel the signal, the spring just didn't have enough "uumph" to move the cam back into position. I put the new ones in and it works like a champ!! Thanks for all the help guys!! Now on to pulling the engine next week

 

That's great!

This is an important factoid that needs to be filed away: Newer-style cancel springs will work in place of the hard to find older springs.

- Eric

 

Cost me $7 with shipping!!

 

Thats good to know not 100 percent will work.post #3.