Is there two different headlight switches for the 67 Cutlass? When I redid my dash I replaced the headlight switch. The first switch I purchased was missing a terminal. I went back to the parts store, with the original switch in hand. They matched it with a switch from a 67 Impala. It seemed to work ok. I had to rechase the threads to allow the bezel to thread on. This was last year. I am now having problems with the switch. It is often difficult to pull the switch out and the interior lights will stay on until I pull the switch in and out several times. I am going to replace the switch again, but would like to make sure I get the correct switch. Are there two different switches? Is one of the female terminal inlets not needed?

 

I looked in my assembly manual and it only shows one part number for the head light switch.
Fusick's has a switch in their catalog on page 37
D1588 Headlight Switch 1964-67 all $35.50.
Give them a shot.

 

I just replaced the headlight switch on my '73 Custom Cruiser, and I found that there are some variations in switches of that era. If you go, for example, to Rock Auto's website and search for a headlight switch for your car, several are shown, including both aftermarket manufacturer parts and AC-Delco parts. Prices range from $8.00 to $23.00. To me, $23 isn't that much, and I'd probably get the AC-Delco part to have the best chance that it will work with your car.

In my case, the first switch I bought didn't work, and I returned it (to Autozone). When the one I bought from US Auto Parts down the street also didn't work, I decided that the problem must be elsewhere, and it turned out to be the wire from the switch to the dimmer switch. But in the process of all this and searching for headlight switches at several different vendor websites, I found that there are many apparently equivalent part numbers as well as several different switches that might have been used during that time.

 

Thanks for the info. I believe one of the problems I had with the switch was the grounding strap on the dash had broken. I fixed that and the lights now work ok..however, still a bit sticking on the pull. Maybe if I lub the pull, a little, might help.

 

This could certainly help and is worth trying, but I found that headlight switches are so cheap ($11 at my nearby U.S. Autoparts store) and so easy to swap out (once you get at it from behind the dash), that why not just go ahead and replace it. Mine had a problem that sounds similar to yours. The "action" didn't feel right. Instead of a nice, satisfying "click" when you pulled it out to the first stop to turn the parking lights on, it would sort of slush its way to that point, and the only way to know if you pulled it out far enough to turn the parking lights on was to actually look and see if the parking lights were on.

Of course, the problem that couldn't be fixed with mine and that required I get a new one was that the rheostat coil had broken, so the dash lights could not be dimmed or brightened. They were either off or all the way on.

 

OK..the switch stuck again. I called Fusick and got theirs. Actually their part number is the AC Delco part number (D1588). It has 8 pins instead of seven. Thanks for your help.....