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If you been reading the thread about my late brother's 1972 Supreme, I am in the process of getting it running and eventually roadworthy. Since the car has been sitting for ~30 years, I am thinking of either rebuilding or upgrading the generator. If the CSM is accurate, the standard generator is a 37 amp. The car has no A/C and no power accessories other than an AM radio. No plans at this time to add A/C or accessories. Should I run it as is, rebuild, or upgrade to a 55 amp? TIA for your comments.
If the alt is working, I would run it as is. If you rebuild it yourself I would rebuild as 37 amp. If sending it to a shop for rebuild, I would ask for an upgrade.
If the alt is working, I would run it as is. If you rebuild it yourself I would rebuild as 37 amp. If sending it to a shop for rebuild, I would ask for an upgrade.
I do not know if it is working since it has been sitting so long. I would attempt to rebuild it myself. I also realized it has an external voltage regulator.
I don't see the point of rebuilding or replacing an alternator that works, and apparently you believe the original one works because you say one of your options is to use it "as is." If you do have to replace it, you don't need a more powerful one because, as you said, the car has almost no accessories. Whether the original or a replacement, why wouldn't one the size that came from the factory be adequate? I don't think the factory made a habit of installing underpowered alternators.
Thanks for the replies. It was working (to my knowledge) when parked in 1985. I think I am going to rebuild because the car was sitting so long. I am concerned about internal corrosion because of sitting on dirt/gravel. Lots of surface rust everywhere in the engine compartment. Is there a part number stamped on the housing? I cannot see one. Thanks again everyone for your input.
OK, that looks a little rough. If you do need to do something, is there any particular need to rebuild this one? I put an alternator (your car has an alternator, by the way, not a generator) on my '67 Delta that I bought at the local Autozone. It's a Duralast brand, but it looks fine and works fine. They've got one for your car for about $50 plus your old core. It's a 63 amp, too, so it ought to be able to handle every electronic gadget you might plug into that cigar lighter.
The part number is stamped on the flat of one of the ears. Use a wire brush.
These don't tend to not work. In all likelihood, it will work fine just as it is.
If you want to make it prettier, that's your choice. There's no reason to replace parts that work fine already, though.
If you really want to know, you can take it down to the local chain auto parts store and have them test it for free.
If you're taking it apart, check the bearings and make sure that they feel good - if not, they're cheap and easy to replace.
Again, thanks for the replies. I will take it to the local parts store and have them check it. If it works fine then I will not rebuild. If it does not check out okay I will evaluate the alternatives, rebuild versus buying a reman. Thanks!
Had the unit checked out at the local Advance Auto...not producing any current! So going to investigate rebuild versus reman. I would like to stay with a Delco brand but may have to settle for a "will fit". Advance/AutoZone/Summit prices are ~$50 and change with core.
Another option, if you want to keep your car "original," is to rebuild your own.
The parts that fail (bearings, diode board, brushes) are all available fairly cheaply from NAPA, and I'm sure from on-line sources, such as RockAuto as well. You should be able to rebuild it for less than the cost of a replacement (although without some elbow grease, it won't look as shiny as a replacement).
I found the part number (1102164 63 LL22 12VNF stamped on housing) but the parts book lists 1102459 (less fan and pulley). I am not concerned with cosmetics at this time considering the looks of the engine compartment.
That's been my thought from the start. Buy the remanufactured unit from the store, put it on in 10 minutes, and you're on to the next issue, of which it sounds like this car has many.
...and you're on to the next issue, of which it sounds like this car has many.
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I am sure it is just the tip of the iceburg concerning issues. But for me it is the adventure (and frustration) of getting it running after sitting for 30+ years. Hey, I am a retired engineer so what do you expect?
That is pretty crusty. If it worked when put away 30 years ago it probably has stuck brushes. It may just need cleaned up with some new bearings and brushes. I would replace it if original look isn't a necessity. A replacement will have a different back half most of the time. I am pretty sure 1102164 is a generator number, not an alternator number. Open it up and see why it doesn't work before you replace it. It may be very simple.
Location: I moved to pittsburgh so I can be near Primantis
Posts: 405
the the 63amp in my 74 started throwing the gen light, I spent many a day in my college dorm taking it apart and cleaning it until I saved up enuf for the replacement VR ($25 back then was a LOT) it got to the point out, replace, in - half hour.
This coming week I plan to open it up and look inside. A friend suggested converting to an internal voltage regulator while it is open. Summit Racing has a kit to convert that includes everything but the bearings (all parts needed less than $80). While it is open I might as well replace the bearings. This will definitely be a learning project.
I double checked the number on the alternator and it is 1102464. The first "4" is stamped light and I thought it was a "1". My mistake. But it still does not show in the parts book.
Last edited by farmer52; November 4th, 2016 at 10:45 AM.
This coming week I plan to open it up and look inside. A friend suggested converting to an internal voltage regulator while it is open. Summit Racing has a kit to convert that includes everything but the bearings (all parts needed less than $80).
The internal regulator SI-family alternators use a completely different housing than does your 10DN external regulator alternator. I'm not aware of any "conversion kit". The only possible conversion is to swap the entire alternator and change the wiring to bypass the external regulator.
The internal regulator SI-family alternators use a completely different housing than does your 10DN external regulator alternator. I'm not aware of any "conversion kit".
What is the difference in a DN versus a SI? Learning new stuff everyday.
I don't know who you talked to, but the first kit is to rebuild and convert an SI alternator to a one-wire regulator. You have to start with an internal regulator alternator already. I will not work with your housing. I'll also point out that you can buy a completely rebuilt 12SI from RockAuto for not much more than that price.
The second link is for the adapter harness to bypass the external regulator if you are converting to an SI alternator. You can pay that, or you can simply make jumpers yourself for less.
If you want to get parts or advice on this alternator, just contact Stellar, who posted above - He's had a starter / generator business for decades, and he can tell you exactly what the best thing to do it.
Joe is right about it being a 1 wire kit which means you won't need the additional plugs unless looks are important. It will still be a one wire. Joe is wrong about not being able to use your rear housing. It will accept the summit parts to make it into an internal alt. I wouldn't buy the kit until I took the alt apart. If you need a stator or rotor it will cost a good bit more and they are not in the kit. If you decide to rebuild it I would go with a 3 wire reg instead of the 1 wire reg in the kit. I can supply the parts seen in the summit ad for less if you need them, with either a 1 or 3 wire reg. I can also supply a rotor or stator if needed. Good luck, but see what you need before making the purchase from summit.
Joe is right about it being a 1 wire kit which means you won't need the additional plugs unless looks are important. It will still be a one wire. Joe is wrong about not being able to use your rear housing. It will accept the summit parts to make it into an internal alt. I wouldn't buy the kit until I took the alt apart. If you need a stator or rotor it will cost a good bit more and they are not in the kit. If you decide to rebuild it I would go with a 3 wire reg instead of the 1 wire reg in the kit. I can supply the parts seen in the summit ad for less if you need them, with either a 1 or 3 wire reg. I can also supply a rotor or stator if needed. Good luck, but see what you need before making the purchase from summit.
Really? Good to know. Thanks.
Of course, by the time you get bearings, you can still buy a complete 12SI from RockAuto for about the same money. And if you choose to go one-wire, understand the limitations of that configuration.
Joe the only difference between the transition hsg and the 10SI hsg that I am aware of is a small round post at the plug opening located oposite the plug lock opening. The 10SI has the post and the transition hsg does not. The post is a support for the internal reg plug (I don't think it is critical). The 12 si housing is thicker at that point and does not have or need the post.
Farmer, If you have doubts about doing it yourself, I can send you the rear hsg from a 10SI already assembled with the parts installed including the rear bearing less the stator or with the stator if you need it.
Joe the only difference between the transition hsg and the 10SI hsg that I am aware of is a small round post at the plug opening located oposite the plug lock opening. The 10SI has the post and the transition hsg does not. The post is a support for the internal reg plug (I don't think it is critical). The 12 si housing is thicker at that point and does not have or need the post.
Thanks. That's good info. I have not played with the transition alternator cases.
Joe,
Buying a reman unit will take the "fun and excitement" away from this learning experience. ...
Ken
From the looks of it there is plenty else to create fun and excitement left on your project. Work smart, I'm sure this opportunity will pop up in the future with a better candidate.
So that transition alternator really is just a 10SI with the 10DN guts. Wow. Why would GM even bother?
More like a 10SI with 10SI guts without the reg and trio. Like you describe it- a transition alt. In 72 the 10SI had already been in production for 4 years. Not used until 69, but first made in 68. Open faced alts for example. I suspect the first 10SI alts, the open faced ones were experimental and only used on a small number of models. After they proved to be reliable and a sucess they tooled to make all models with SI internal reg capability. Just my suspicions.
November 3rd, 2016, 06:14 AM
I am sure it is just the tip of the iceburg concerning issues. But for me it is the adventure (and frustration) of getting it running after sitting for 30+ years. Hey, I am a retired engineer so what do you expect? 
