yeahbuddy

I have a 68 Cutlass Supreme 4dr. Since I got the car the GEN light has been on. Even after I recently changed the alternator because my battery wasn't charging properly. The car has power windows but right side does not function, the fuel tank gauge does not work but moves passed the HOT mark when the lights are turned on, the horn does not work. I know the voltage regulator was changed out by the prior owner.

I am not quite sure where to look or what to do considering I am not comfortable messing with anything electrical.

I do get power to front and rear lights, turn signals, left front and rear windows, radio, heater, power bench, cigarette lighter and wipers. Thanks.

Lady72nRob71

Makes me wonder if the right regulator was used. It is the device that controls the GEN light.
Other possibility is what the condition of the gauges are at their backside and wiring connectors. Time to pull the gauges and check the connections and clean them. If any critters got up there, there could be shorts all over.

yeahbuddy

I had the box for the voltage regular he put in at one point but I believe I threw it away. Do you think its worth the $17 for me to pick up a 62.2 amp voltage regulator to swap out before going any further? He claimed he changed the alternator and voltage regulator and the light stayed on. So far I've replaced the alternator and the light is still on. It looks like a simple swap. Just remove the 3 bolts and reconnect the 5 plugs?

I remember reading that it might be the brown field wire that connects to the regulator. I know AutoZone carries the regulator connector for $9.99. Could replacing the connector and regulator possibly fix the GEN light and window/horn issue?

yeahbuddy

I took a closer look at the regulator and I discovered a loose connection closer to the alternator. I believe it is a blue wire that is for the OIL light connection and the green is got HOT? I noticed that the plug was disconnected from the mount on the engine. When I followed the wire it disconnected from the plug/wire it was connected to under electrical tape. I tucked it aside and drove a couple miles to get some food when the oil light started flickering on and off. It freaked me out for a minute but I realized the vibration of the car was making the open end of the blue wire touch the metal on the alternator making it light up.

I plan on connecting everything back together. I just want to double check that these all connect together. The blue lose wire would get connected back to the plug and the plug would connect to the mount on the engine. So I have this understanding correct. Also, could this be the reason the GEN light is constantly on. I took these photos and circled the points I am talking about.

wire2.jpg

wire3.jpg

wires1.jpg

joe_padavano

Correct. Green is temp, blue is oil.

Lady72nRob71

See if you can find a solid state voltage regulator. They will look similar to the mechanical ones, but will not have adjustment screws in the back and will be very lightweight. They are about 17 bucks and are a good improvement to the charging system. At worst leave it on and put the mech. one in the trunk for a backup.

Joe is right about those 2 wires - you must have aftermarket gauges. Those 2 have nothing to do with the GEN issue. Tape em and forget em.

The horn and power windows will be separate issues.
Do you have a voltmeter and wiring diagram for the car? If so, then it is time to get trouble hunting! Find the horn relay and do some checks there. The windows will be a whole different issue. Does the left rear NOT window work with its own switch OR the driver switch?

yeahbuddy

I connected the two wires back to the oil pressure and temp. All the gauges are original. They work fine now.

The left front and rear windows work with both the front master control and the rear door. The right side front and rear windows however does not work at all through the master control or their own switch.

As far as the solid state regulator without the screws in the back. Does it look like this Duralast?

8.jpg

yeahbuddy

Got everything connected and on my way home the HOT light came on and stayed on. I pulled over and checked over the coolant and radiator for any leaks any it was fine. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and it went off. Once I got home and parked I let it sit for a bit again and then started it up and it came back on. Im not sure if the light is being screwy or there is a cooling issue.

Lady72nRob71

The windows will require some work... First, do the courtesy lights dim when you try to use the bad windows? If so, the motor or mechanism is frozen. If not, look under the dash for any cut wires or stuff like that. There should be a harness going from the left front door under the dash and to the right front & rear doors.
You need a volt meter for this test... With IGN on, engine off, pop off the switches for the bad windows and probe the center (long) switch pin. It may have a screw on blue cap. If you get 12V to ground, then the motor is probably bad.

The electonic regulator looks much like the one you show. Is it very lightweight? If so, than it is electronic.
Rap on the top cover with a rubber screwdriver handle. If you hear a faint reverberating spring sound inside it, it is mechanical.

You need an infrared thermometer to check the engine temp right by the sensor. Thay are cheap now - 10 bucks at harbor freight. Accurate and easy, too.
It is possible that the switch is bad and coming on too early, the reason it was disconnected.