Gary's 2 442-S

I am having a problem with my engine not wanting to turn over after it has ran for several minutes. I can start it fine when it is cold with no problem but if I let it run for about 5 minutes and then cut it off, its hard to start again because now it seems like the battery is being discharge and it turns over very sluggish and I then have to charge the battery and let the engine cool off before it starts. The battery is a new battery and I took it back to the auto parts thinking that it may have a bad cell in it but it doesn't. I also took the alternator off and had it checked to make sure it was charging properly. I have all new wiring and new battey cables since I am doing a complete restoration. I did notice however that the negative cable on the battery was warmer than I think it should be, in fact I am thinking that it should not be warm at all.I am now leaning towards the starter possibly having a problem with it even though as I stated before the car starts up when cold very well. I don't have headers on the car just new stock exhaust.I do not have any of the dash gauges installed but I dont think that should create a problem. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated

1966_F85

Is the motor grounded?

Alienbaby17

Could be a starter problem...but I doubt it. I've seen some starters get hot and then become more difficult to turn over. Usually in these cases it is on a car with headers which run very close tot he starter.

I'd be more inclined to look for a wiring/ connection problem. I was having a problem with my 98 this fall. It would tend to start ok cold but later would have a very slow crank. In my case it turned out that there was a poor connection at the starter.

I guess I'd check over all of the grounds and major connections. Look for something loose or corroded.

Good luck,
Jay

gearheads78

I would be leaning toward but ground connection or battery cables. Are you sure its not advanced too far? I have seen that cause that condition too.

Trofeonut

I would say it IS the starter dragging( drawing too much current). Pull the starter off and take off the end plate and check the brushes. If they are ground down to the holder; that is your problem. A reman is not expensive for those cars.

Lady72nRob71

No mention of the regulator...
With the engine running, turn on lights and heater and measure battery voltage.
If 13 to 15V, then charging system can be ruled out.
I assume neg. cable is securely fastened to block, not frame.

Starter could be the next culprit.

Oldsmaniac

Good possibility, also check solenoid. Main battery cable + goes to terminal on starter solenoid. There is a contact inside that gets pitted over time.

Funkwagon455

First check the timing, my small block car likes to run on the advanced side but once warmed up can be reluctant to start. The starter solenoid could also be getting heat soaked. Perhaps a bit of both symptoms. Good luck!!!

Rickman48

Are the ground straps from the firewall to the valve covers installed, and clean!
I had a 'corroded' positive battery cable causing all kinds of probems on a '69 442!!
Was green on the inside!!

Gary's 2 442-S

I am also leaning towards a grounding issue now that I am reading your replies. Richard you kind of jogged my memory on that issue because I now remember when I welded the tail pipe hangers to the frame, the welder did not work until I scraped off some of the paint I had used on the frame. It was not getting a good enough ground and now I am thinking that the engine may not have a good enough ground source to the fire wall, because I painted it also and maybe I need to remove the ground strap and sand the spot I am screwing it to. I will try that this weekend and see what that gets me. I also knew a engine that is too far advanced could possibly cause this problem,but I have then engine timed @ 8 BTDC. Dwell is set at 30. Most of the time I would think that an engine to far advance would make the engine turn over like it is retarded and being sluggish. I am telling you guys this engine starts up on the very first try especially after I replaced that Edelbrook carburetor with a Rochester. That made a big difference.The engine had been rebuilt when I got it. I appreciate all of the replies from everyone and I will let you all know if it is a grounding issue.

69442C

If your negative battery cable is connected to the engine, as it should, and if you painted your engine, you might want to remove the negative cable from the engine, clean off the paint from that area to give a good metal to metal connection and then re-install the ground cable. If that doesn't do the trick, I would start to focus on the starter motor and wiring connections. Some of the better auto parts houses can test the starter for you to see what kind of amperage draw it has if you aren't sure of it's condition.

Gary's 2 442-S

Trofeonut, you most certainly were right the starter was the problem. I checked the ground and the connections and they were good,so then I started the car, removed the battery cable as soon as I started it. I let the engine run for about 10 minutes and then cut it off. I reconnected the battery cable and tried to start the engine and once again it was very sluggish to start as if the battery had discharged. I pulled the starter and took it to the auto parts house and got a rebuilt starter put it on let the engine run for about 10 more minutes with the battery connected and then cut it off. It started right back with no hesitation. I really did not take in consideration that the starter was bad because it would start right up when cold. A valuable lesson learned. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

fjross

Had the same problem with my car after a fresh restoration with all new wiring. I knew I ground down the paint on all the ground connections when I attached them as well as adding some dielectric grease on the connections. I purchased a brand new Powermaster OEM looking hi torque starter and had the same hot start problems. I removed the starter to have it checked out at my local rebuilder and was assured that the starter checked out and did have the heavy duty solenoid. The thing that I did notice was when removing the wires from the starter was that some of the connections were a bit loose. when reinstalling, I retorqued all the wire connections and installed a 850 cca battery and have not had a problem since.

Rickman48

Since I've repaired numerous vehicles with electrical probems, I purchased a couple of bags of 'star' washers - the kind with 'teeth', and use them on all ground connections, after a good cleaning.

Aceshigh

I had this problem.

Turned out to be a corroded ground cable from the battery.
$6 for a new negative cable = fixed. I tend to start with the
lowest cost possible solution and work my way up.

I do also have a starter heat soak issue in the summer months
but that's where I get ZERO response from the starter for 15-30 minutes.