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Been an issue since I got the car and finally coming around to redoing the interior. Right side front and rear power windows do not roll down using both the switch on the drivers side and on the doors. The windows have rolled down randomly when trying over the years and are very slow to roll up and need assistance.
Pulled off the panel and checked the switch and the switch is fine. I checked the plug the switch goes into (3 wire) and I am getting 9.35v to both up and down.
What would be the next step? As you can tell from my previous posts I am learning as I go so some advice/steps would be helpful. I want to figure out if the motors are bad or if its something with the connection since I have a chance to replace them now they are bare.
The 2 wires my fingers are on are not getting any power as is. Would I plug in the switch, push up or down and then check the voltage going to the 2 wires brown/blue and brown/yellow?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by yeahbuddy; May 28, 2019 at 10:04 PM.
Start by inspecting the wires inside the door boot. After 50 years of opening/closing the doors, the wires have almost certainly had the insulation harden with age, get brittle and break. If your not 100% determined to stay original, I would strongly suggest rewording the window motors using relays. This will eliminate the voltage drop to the motors that results from the resistance of the switches, and multiple connections. It will also require just one heavy gauge wire, the relays can be triggered by much smaller wires. The switches will last forever, and it’s much easier running small wire they the door boots.
I just rewired the power windows on my 81 GMC truck, it previously suffered from the typical sloooow GM power windows of those years. Now, the windows fly up or down. Look up GM power window conversion with relays, there are many YouTube videos.
Start by inspecting the wires inside the door boot. After 50 years of opening/closing the doors, the wires have almost certainly had the insulation harden with age, get brittle and break. If your not 100% determined to stay original, I would strongly suggest rewording the window motors using relays. This will eliminate the voltage drop to the motors that results from the resistance of the switches, and multiple connections. It will also require just one heavy gauge wire, the relays can be triggered by much smaller wires. The switches will last forever, and it’s much easier running small wire they the door boots.
I just rewired the power windows on my 81 GMC truck, it previously suffered from the typical sloooow GM power windows of those years. Now, the windows fly up or down. Look up GM power window conversion with relays, there are many YouTube videos.
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Thanks for the info. I am interested in going that route. I tested the front 4 switch today and as shown in the photo below, the voltage is only steady on the to driver side windows which work. The passenger side showed 10.3v on front and 0v on the rear switch (from drivers door panel) On the actual passenger doors I was getting 9.35v on front and 0v on back plugs. Not sure if that helps figure out whats wrong.
Last edited by yeahbuddy; May 29, 2019 at 01:16 PM.
The front right window is powered by it's very own harness plugged into the drivers door jamb. The rear windows are fed under the drivers seat to under the rear seat and then branch out, left and right. By putting 12 volts on a probe you will be able to operate your windows from that four gang plug. INSERT GENTLY into each hole one by one. The right side front window will have broken wires inside the boot at the jamb. Inside the four gang plug are hair pin shaped ,contacts that might be spread open.
Last edited by Yellowstatue; May 29, 2019 at 06:35 PM.
Reason: More stuff!
The front right window is powered by it's very own harness plugged into the drivers door jamb. The rear windows are fed under the drivers seat to under the rear seat and then branch out, left and right. By putting 12 volts on a probe you will be able to operate your windows from that four gang plug. INSERT GENTLY into each hole one by one. The right side front window will have broken wires inside the boot at the jamb. Inside the four gang plug are hair pin shaped ,contacts that might be spread open.
In this case what are my options? I liked what matt69olds suggested with adding relays and a separate fuse panel. I am just not sure how to set that up and still have full control from the main 4 switch at the driver door?
What I have suggested is a trouble shooting procedure to find where your broken wires are, and then possible repair. To add relays is a permanent fix but you will now need to replace wires and add hardware.
What I have suggested is a trouble shooting procedure to find where your broken wires are, and then possible repair. To add relays is a permanent fix but you will now need to replace wires and add hardware.
My harness looks solid. I peeled back the conduit and I don't have any weak wires. Going down the list of all of the suggestions. Any idea where may be another weak point?
Put 12 volts directly into the plug at the door, or pull the plug out of the motor and put 12 volts on each terminal one by one. I can't remember if both ground and 12 volts is switched together or not. You might have to put gnd and 12 v at the same time on opposite terminals. This should confirm go or no go on the motors.
Put 12 volts directly into the plug at the door, or pull the plug out of the motor and put 12 volts on each terminal one by one. I can't remember if both ground and 12 volts is switched together or not. You might have to put gnd and 12 v at the same time on opposite terminals. This should confirm go or no go on the motors.
Thanks. I'll try that next and let you know what happens.
With the prove I am able to roll down just the drivers side. When I connect the probe directly to the motors on the passenger side I hear a click. On the rear pass I am not getting a closed circuit.
get yourself one for fathers day ...
penetrates the wire insulation really easy
the motors are self grounded and this often causes problems on rusty cars ....
both wires going to the motor are alternate hot power
to change motor direction
