Purchased 70 Cutlass in November. Was told the dashlights were dim. A more accurate statement would have been - THE DASH LIGHTS DON'T WORK! Dome light works, headlights work, lights by kick panels, work, and light by ash tray works. Hoping they are just burnt out or not making contact.

Does the Cutlass Dashpad come off the top of the dash for accessing dashlights and wiring? In my chevelle, there are about six screws across the dash that hold the pad down. Makes it somewhat easier to replace those pesky dashlights. Going to change to LED while I'm doing it.

Thanks

 

Hey, Bob - Are you talking about the instrument/gauge lights or the smaller lights that illuminate the heater controls and the headlight switch?

 

Hey Bob - talking about the instrument lights - thanks. Love your Rally Sport!!! Had two of those and one 442 in town when growing up... got into my soul.

 

Instrument lights are pretty easy. Take off the wood grain bezel around the three gauges - two screws you'll see when looking up from the gauges themselves, and two underneath the lower part that you can see if you look up from underneath on either side of the steering column. Then just remove the individual gauge pods from the front and access the bulbs on the back side. The speedo has a quick release on the cable that can be annoying, but if your hands can get behind you can access those bulbs after taking out the gas gauge cluster and the tach or clock. I'll post a couple pics

The top pic below shows all the clusters out, obviously. But there is very little that is attached from the back and they are held in with 2-3 hex head screws each. Don't lose the ground strap pieces! They can fall out!
The second pic shows where the screws are - and shows that I'm missing the one on the bottom....

 

 

There are multiple bulbs on the gauges unlikely they would all blow, if they are all not working I would check the wiring and fuses.

 

I agree with 4speed - are all the lights out? I had a similar issue on another car where the interior lights didn't function correctly, and it turned out to be the headlight switch. If you're taking the gauges out, it's easier to get to that switch if you think it could be a problem. On this car, I had an issue with the gas gauge cluster and found the ground strap was missing - I had to fabricate one out of a strip of metal (top picture on the left). Start with the gas gauge as it's easiest to remove and see what the bulbs show you....

 

Yes. All the dash lights are out. Makes sense that it is not the bulbs.. I'll start with the fuse (sure hope it's that simple!), then the headlight switch ground. And may try the fuel gauge light next.

I'll let you know. thanks very much

 

I assume you've verified that the dimmer in the headlight switch is cranked all the way counterclockwise. I've had these go bad and cause this problem due to corrosion on the rheostat windings. Be sure to check the 4A INST LPS fuse. Check for power at the fuse terminals with a test light. The power wire leaves the headlight switch after passing through the rheostat, runs to this 4A fuse, then runs to the illumination lights in the dash.

 

Yes, checked the dimmer switch.... did again last night after your post to triple check. no luck... Hey.........just thought about something.... since the headlight dimmer switch turns on the dome light when all the way on, does that mean the switch is good?

 

No. They are two separate functions. The dimmer is a rheostat. There is also a cam on the shaft that closes a totally separate set of contacts when the **** is turned all the way CCW.

 

Roger. Thanks.

 

Ok.... found that the fuze was blown..... replaced it but dash lights didn't come on.......as I turned the headlight dimmer, the dash lights illuminated for a moment....then the fuze must have blown......I replaced it again, but no dash lights this time.... and the fuze didn't blow....... based on the above, I'll try the replacing the headlight switch next