Greetings to all ye Oldsmobilers!

I need to replace the clock bulb in my '72 Supreme. I was going to fix my clock while I was at it, but after reading various posts here on the site, it seems that removing the clock is a major PIA. So... does the clock need to be removed to replace the bulb, or is there a way to get to the bulb without having to be a contortionist?

 

On the 70-72 the clock removal is easy, it comes out through the front. Four screws to remove the gauge bezel then unbolt the clock. 68/69 is a pain because it has to come out the rear, on these cars is easier to change the bulb from the rear then to remove the clock. On your 72 it would be much easier to pull the clock to change the bulb.

 

From what I've read in other posts on this, there are nuts on the backside that have to be removed...is that not the case on the '72 s?

 

No its not the case. The bulb is pushed into socket that twists into circuit board. Its really easy.

 

Oops...I should have been more specific. If I want to remove the clock, are there nuts on the backside that have to be removed?

 

There are 2 self tapping screws on the front.

 

Remove the bezel from the front of the dash. There are maybe 6-8 screws that hold the bezel in place. Once the bezel if off, there are 4 screws that hold the clock to the dash. Remove those, unplug the connectors, the clock is out. Took longer to describe the process than to actually do it.

 

Got it.. thanks for all the input everyone...now I can proceed with my original plan 😀...tick tock...lol

 

To expand on this, two screws are visible on the upper part of the bezel and go up into the dash pad. The other screws hold the blue lenses for the dash controls and also anchor the bottom of the bezel.

 

​​​​​​Got it.. thanks.

 

Is the bulb a 168 or 194?

 

I believe they're identical in size/dimensions and therefore interchangeable. The 168 is brighter than the 194.

168 = 0.35 amps; 3 candle power; 1500 hrs longevity
194 = 0.27 amps; 2 candle power; 2500 hrs longevity

http://www.logwell.com/tech/shdwe/indicator_lamps.html

 

Forgot to ask...how many bulbs per gauge and the clock?

 

Probably 5/gauge plus the clock. You'll know when you pull the gauges.

 

Dave - To reiterate what has been previously mentioned. Nothing could be easier than replacing these bulbs. Once you remove the screws from the front, you can pull (nestle) out each gauge and visualize each lamp pod. Super simple and easy to get to.

 

Post #4 from this thread (below). Yours will most likely be identical.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...lights-148388/

 

Dave, as others have mentioned getting the clock pod out of a 70-72 Cutlass is actually really easy. Once it's out you can go about the bulb replacement quite easily. BUT if you're planning to do a clock fix (yours is not working?) that's a different story. Most likely the clock points are stuck or might even need to be replaced. To access the working part of the clock, first remove the small screw holding the set **** and remove the **** itself. Now for the tricky part. The clock face is held in place by some bent over tabs around the edge of the clock plastic face. Those need to be pried up enough to allow the lens to be removed. After that it's an easy process to get the clock mechanism out. You can opt for rebuilding the original clock or buying a replacement quartz unit to install in its place. Only differences between OEM and quartz is the quartz will not 'sweep' every second, and it also keeps better time. This is a project for when the car will be parked for awhile.

 

The dash bezel is only 4 screws not 6 or 8
do you have extra on yours?

 

I think they're counting the 2 screws needed to remove the dash gage cover, then the 4 on the clock housing.

 

Nope he said 6-8 to remove bezel.
Was just wondering if he had some extra hack work dont on his Car.

 

I haven't gotten that far yet...just doing pre planning for when I dive into it. I found a source on the innerweb that sells restored factory clocks for 140 bones, so I'm probably gonna go that route once I get the $. For right now I just need to know how many bulbs total for the speedo, fuel gauge and clock...gonna replace them all once I'm into it.

 

Those bulbs are used in the side markers as well, so having more than you need for the dash gauges is a good thing.

 

Rockauto buy a sleeve way cheaper than auto parts store I just bought Wagner 1157 for .19 cents each

 

I don’t have a 70-72 cutlass, it’s been a while since I messed with one. I thought there were 3 screws above the gauges, and 3 below. I was going by memory. I stand corrected.

 

The quartz conversion is pretty cheap and easy to do. I did mine probably 25 years ago and still works perfectly

 

If I buy the kit, can I do it myself? And how would I know which clock I have? I understand there are two types...Borg and ??? Will it say?

 

I did mine recently that’s only how I knew.
all good didn’t mean to affend

 

I remember it was very easy. I would do some research on the clock clock conversion, I’m pretty sure it’s easy to identify the clock manufacturer.

 

none taken.

 

 

I’m reading this thread 3 years later. I’m in the process of replacing my 1971 Cutlass Supreme bulbs with LED’s. The gauge has either 7 or 8 bulbs depending on whether you have the FASTEN SEAT BELT warning light. If you don’t, there are 7 bulbs. The speedometer has 5, and the clock has 2. I will be purchasing a reconditioned clock with a quartz movement. I’m trying to find out if the clock bulbs can be replaced with LED’s.

 

I think the only way to dim LED bulbs is with a module that converts the variable voltage into a PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) signal. Basically, it controls the brightness of the bulbs by turning it off and on really fast.

I can’t stand driving at night with the dash light full bright. If it doesn’t bother you, go ahead. Just something to possibly consider.