Anyone tackle repairing their circuit board, or no a good company that does this? The board on my ‘63 f85 wasnt working so I pulled it out and found at least one copper lead broken.




I bought some of this copper tape to repair it. If I understand correctly, I should be able to ohm test each pin and the end of each trace and get a reading correct?





I made a couple repairs and some still don’t seem to return a result on my volt meter when turned to ohms even though I see no breaks. I place one lead on a pin and the other on the very end of that copper lead run.

 

With your multimeter set to Ohms you can turn ON the tone and measure continuity. With a lead on each end of the trace the multimeter will beep to let you know you have continuity. If there's no beep you know you have an OPEN.

 

I think I'd go with solid core tinned insulated wire for those repairs. I think replacing those lifted traces with wire would make a really good repair rather than messing with foil tape. Use hot glue, or similar, to neatly secure the lengths of wires along the traces.

 

I've repaired several circuit boards - NOTE: I am a 100% complete novice. I also assembled several old HEATHKIT devices, a couple Ham radios & built my own Vox guitar amplifier. I know this doesn't directly relate to your circuit board. However, w/in the past five years the dash panel circuit board on my 2003 F250 has gone **** up; and, the information I can share with you is this. Circuit boards, for any particular reason, type of solder, amount of solder, pins, etc. become brittle w/ age. It is primarily the solder which becomes brittle with age. What happens is the solder develops hair line (or larger) cracks - creating resistance and impeding electrical flow. The fix for many circuit boards is to "reflow" the solder. In this case you're looking to heat the existing solder to a point it begins to flow once again creating a circuit w/ no resistance. I've done one reflow in my entire life. I own a half dozen solder pens, each has its advantages. It's a meticulous process. You generally want a large table-top magnifying glass with a solder gun which heats substantially but small enough to reflow (heat) the existing solder (eliminating cracks). You most often don't even touch the existing solder, but instead hold the gun/pen over the solder until you can visually (magnifying glass) see the solder "flow".

As an example, I need to remove the dash panel circuit board from my 2003 F250, send it out to Circuit Board Medics and they reflow the existing solder as if it were new again. What I'm suggesting (I guess) is sometimes you don't need to re-tape copper foil but instead might be able to reflow the existing solder. Just something to consider. I admire your efforts!!!

 

Yes, sir.

 

I agree with this. You can get materials specifically made for this - it's effectively super glue and an activator/ accelerator. Fit the wire between the appropriate terminals, use the glue to hold it to the circuit board, then spray the accelerator to instantly cure the glue.

 

Did you solder the copper tape at both ends?

 

I was wondering the same thing. I looked at those pictures again and it does not appear the tape is soldered to the metal traces.

 

If you solder this be very careful with the heat as the copper foil and metal traces burn quite easily.

 

I think the first thing you should do is measure continuity. If you have continuity you're wasting your time. If you don't have continuity, the first thing I would do is apply flux to each of the tips which already contain solder. Then, hold a soldering gun just "over" the solder until the existing solder liquefies. Then, measure measure continuity once again to see if you have continuity.

 

I think what I see is you've done a decent job of applying a brass/wire brush to the solder holding each pin in place - they're nice & shiny. I'd suggest, again if you have no continuity, you simply apply some flux, hold the solder iron over the existing solder, and reflow the solder. Those heavy dark spots is surface oxidation of the solder. The underlying solder is quite possibly (likely?) brittle & cracked. A reflow will eliminate any cracks in the solder. Your choice. I admire your efforts! I don't think you need to solder the copper foil. To each their own.

 

This copper tape has conductive adhesive, you don’t solder it. I think some of the pins have issues. They feel solids, not loose, but checking continuity from the top of the pin to the start of the copper line and some fail. So I’m wondering if there is/was solder at the base of the pins that has gone away.

I did brush off all of the pins to clean off anything that might be creating an issue.

I went with this copper tape so I wouldn’t have to try and solder wire over the trace lines but wasn’t planning on having to run all new lines either.

Also is the green just a regular paint or something special that I should replace?

 

It's a resin which protects the underlying copper - called a solder mask. It's supposed to be inert and resistant to oil, etc. I would not use any standard paint which may contain any specs of metal. I'd leave the green solder mask as it is and not worry about coating any new copper. If were to elect to coat the new copper I'd most likely use something like a clear varnish with a brush applicator like those used in touch-up paints.

 

I'd like to point out - "cleaning" isn't going to necessarily buy you anything. It's the integrity of the solder. A gazillion cracks inside the brittle oxidized solder is where the issue is going to occur.

 

This guy is a tad crude in his technique (mostly because he has a large iron tip blade) but he gets the job done. If you can feel any pin wiggling in its vestibule/hole, it needs a reflow or new solder.
Crud - wrong video - one second.
Here you go - this guy...

 

He's not crude, he doesn't know how to solder. He needs to clean the soldering iron tip.

 

That's a fact!

EDIT: And, no flux.

 

I repaired the compass circuit board in a 2003 F150 I owned. The solder had cracked and all it needed was a reflow.

In the video he mentions not to breathe the solder fumes. This was especially important in the past or when working on vintage equipment. Solder used to be made primarily of lead, now even lead free solder still has traces of lead in it.

 

Jake - Sorry to derail a tiny bit, I really admire your efforts.

Jesse - You re-flowed your board? For a man w/ ET you are my HERO!!

 

I would like to recommend the OP search out a competent electronics repair technician and get an estimate for reflowing/repairing the whole board. That board is HUGE with HUGE solder runs and joints on the pins, there should be no problem for a competent tech to repair it without the use of a microscope or even a magnifying lens. Good tools go a long way, in my career I repaired hundreds if not thousand of circuit boards on Navy equipment and on Motorola protable radio circuit boards, some requiring micro-miniature repair. Skill is important but tools make a huge part of a successful job. Today with my cheesy electronics repair kit, soldering iron, suction tube, solder wick, and assorted hand tools I would probably destroy that board (along with the fact I am way too old now to attempt it). I agree with everyone here that it can be done, with a good iron (much smaller than the one in the video) good solder, good light, and good skill. But those are four variables that can make or break a repair job.

 

Great advice on this thread, LED above power the switch wasn’t working on the (top) marantz 2 speed SD 3000 cassette deck that I picked up for 20 bucks recently, probably because the 1“ x 1“ circuit board broke in half when faceplate was removed to pull mechanism, as it needed new belts. Glued it together and re-flowed it. On my kitchen table. Looks and sounds awesome now.

 

The flux is in the solder

 

Wow, nice equipment. I had a full set of Marantz equipment in the 80's when I was stationed in Okinawa, got pretty good prices at the BX.

 

Oh.....really? I suppose if it "specifically" states the flux is in the solder then it would be contained in the solder. I don't use solder w/ flux built into it. I use a separate flux paste.

Well, I guess I do use solder w/ flux built into it - at least some flux; and, what type flux & amount of flux I'm not 100% certain. You did bring up a good point though which makes me evaluate types of solder - it seems I ALWAYS have to look up the correct type of solder for anything I solder. My general understanding, which I believe will continue moving forward based upon my readings/research is it is always best to apply flux separately to solder which may contain flux as it promotes a better solder seal. Good for bringing it up though - never hurts for me to read more about soldering. Maybe the fact I made many lead glass windows during a period of time which never used any flux in the solder - always external flux.

 

Sorta curious how the repair turned out?

 

Well after longer than I car to admit I determined that the coper tape I was sold as fully conducive was actually not. Sure the top part of the copper would complete a signal because it was a solid strip of copper, but the bottom part with the adhesive would not allow signal to flow. I finally ohm tested the bottom of the strip to confirm. So using it as a jumper from one end of a broken trace to another would not work.

I then bought some low heat solder and re soldered the pin bases for solid connection to the board and made jumpers with thin wire as needed until each end tested complete on the ohm meter. It wasnt pretty and I wasnt proud of it but it all seemed like it would work.

Got it plugged in and put back in the car annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd not a dam thing. So could be my fix wasnt fixed enough or could be the wiring is shot up. But since the newly rebuilt speedo was now working properly and not bouncing around, I kept it in there for now. I really only wish the gas gauge was working so I didnt have to guess there but for now, to cruise with Ill just keep filling it up each outing.

Im thinking I really just need to buy a $100 universal wiring kit with modern fuse panel and spend a weekend re wiring the whole car.

 

I think a universal wiring kit would be more than $100. Sure, you could get one "on the cheap" but you'd spend more adding additional circuits that weren't included. Too bad that copper tape wasn't fully conductive.

 

Something like this is what I was looking at. That should be plenty of circuits and yes its not a plug and play kit but its 1/3 of the price of a Painless kit.

 

OK. Thanks for the update. I was hoping success for you but those old circuit boards are really tough to work on. I had a Dodge Dart many, many years ago - gas gauge broke. I carried a wooden broom stick in the car to measure gas. LOL

 

Well for sure if you use the kit you provided the link for you can be assured that every item will have the correct length of wire and there will be no excess garbage under the dash. Just take your time and be very deliberate and careful and you should get good results.

 

I used one of those and they are not too bad, but integrating my new electronic engine controller, high output ignition system (basically a Summit Racing copy of a MSD), Mega-Shifter, and a few other things, you need to know what you are doing before you try installing a 21 circuit harness in a car that came with an 8 circuit harness.

Back to the original thread, when repairing burned runs on a circuit board, find the last place the existing trace is still firmly connected to whatever the substrate is. Plastic backing is TOUGH!

Cut out the bad/damaged trace and clean off enough of the remaining trace so it can be tinned with solder.

Use fine multi-strand wire to replace the missing trace. Speaker wire or lamp cord will do. Strip the wire out of the insulation and use just about enough strands to carry the same voltage/amperage as the missing trace would have. Twist the strands together tightly so the wire will hold itself together and you can bend and form it to fit over the missing trace. You can tin the entire stranded wire to make it stiffer and easier to form to the exact path.

Once you are satisfied the replacement is a perfect fit, hold it down to the circuit board and solder both ends securely. Work quickly but thoroughly. Too much heat can damage the board, adjacent traces, or close solder joints, this is why plastic backing can be so tough.

After the repaired trace is verified, borrow a bottle of clear nail polish from the Mrs. (if ya got one) and paint over the replacement to hold it in place and keep it from oxidizing/corroding over time.

This has worked well for stereo and tower light repairs for many years. Lightning can wreck a tower light circuit board!