Changing headlights

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Old September 27th, 2010 | 04:23 PM
  #1  
70special's Avatar
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From: Antioch, Ca
Changing headlights

I was looking into changing my headlights to Silverstar or something with halogen for better clarity driving at night. Only one problem, and thats my factory wiring harness allows only two prong headlights, while the halogens require three prong. I'm not sure if the third one is just a ground and I can attach a connector end to slip on and ground it myself or something special is required.
Old September 27th, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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The outside lights are 3 prong and the inside ones are 2 prong. There are conversion kits out there if you want to change from sealed beam lights.
Old September 27th, 2010 | 06:40 PM
  #3  
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Nighthawk feedback

Originally Posted by svnt442
The outside lights are 3 prong and the inside ones are 2 prong. There are conversion kits out there if you want to change from sealed beam lights.
X2.
A lot of people seem to not understand the "old" head lamp system. The reason you have 3 prongs on the low beams is they also are used to supplement the light output when high beams are switched on. This was necessary to meet old lighting standards for night time highway driving. Did you ever notice that in the old days, highways used to have a Day and Night speed rating? It took into account the limited amount of lighting the old systems would put out.

Speed limits have changed, and so have lighting systems. New Halogen is much better than even the initial halogen bulbs. HID is incredibly bright, but needs a different ballast and relay system.

As far as nighthawk lights go, I've tried them. I found that even when they were properly aimed, they didn't give as good a light as a new Halogen bulb. Try them out if you want, but you can't take them back once they're opened and installed. If they work out better for you, great! But be prepared to be underwhelmed. The other thing I didn't like about them was that oncoming cars would flash their high beams even when the night hawks were on low beam and providing "average to poor" lighting. Be prepared for that roadrash to happen too! Maybe it's just that I'm getting old. But when I compare the headlights in my new Sonata to the night hawks, the Sonata's halogen lights win out every time.

My 72 has T3's all the way around. But it's not a driver. The lights are functional, but mostly for period show correctness. I would not want to drive that car at night with them.
Old September 27th, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #4  
70special's Avatar
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Thanks for the information guys. Appreciated
Old September 27th, 2010 | 09:51 PM
  #5  
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I say do the HID conversion. I did it on my cutlass & I'll never drive another car with out them
Old September 28th, 2010 | 04:24 AM
  #6  
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I searched high and low for months looking for a modern setup to replace the T3 sealed halogen lights.
I found CIBIE setups from European markets, but those are extortionately priced.
The simplest way to improve your classic's lighting is to buy these T3 replacements with modern bulbs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2309wt_1161
Get the 100W / 55W Ultra blue bulbs. These are what I put in my 1970 Olds 442 wannabe.

If you want to go a step even further,
Your old *** car has to run that juice through the system and back up to the headlights.
Most classics aren't getting 14 volts to their headlights. This will show you how using relays, and your brightness increases tremendously.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...adlights.shtml

Originally Posted by Allan R
The other thing I didn't like about them was that oncoming cars would flash their high beams even when the night hawks were on low beam
That's going to happen with HID's in any old school T3 lens that accepts newer bulbs. Period.
Unless you get the D2R covers for the bulb itself to stop the "splash" effect.

Most HID bulbs are made for projector lenses.
Our cars do not use projector lenses, so you're going to blind oncoming traffic in a T3 style setup.

I know this because I've had HID's in my vehicles since 2003 and in my Hayabusa. You're not supposed to use them in just any bulb housing.

But when I compare the headlights in my new Sonata to the night hawks, the Sonata's halogen lights win out every time.
This has alot more to do with the design of the headlight assembly & reflection then the bulb in use.
My wife's 2004 GMC Envoy has phenomenal lighting VS my old 2000 GMC Jimmy Diamond Edition.
It's literally night and day how good the housings project the light VS how poorly mine did with the same bulbs.

Last edited by Aceshigh; September 28th, 2010 at 04:32 AM.
Old September 28th, 2010 | 05:25 AM
  #7  
Lady72nRob71's Avatar
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Just changing from a standard sealed beam to a Napa (or Wagner) halogen replacement will make a world of difference. I did that and I am very happy. Bright white light. Hit high beams and cruise dark 2 lane farm roads with confidence. No excessive current draw, either.
The halogen bulbs have the same number of prongs as the original sealed beams, if you get the right ones... Outers have 3 prongs (one high beam, one low beam), inner have 2 (one high beam).
Old September 28th, 2010 | 06:35 AM
  #8  
Olds64's Avatar
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Interesting info. I'm sure this is overlooked often by classic car owners.
Old September 28th, 2010 | 08:33 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Olds64
Interesting info. I'm sure this is overlooked often by classic car owners.
Many folks are often confused by thinking halogens are only the tiny capsule bulbs and sealed beam are the big things.

One young guy at a parts house did not know there can be a little halogen capsule INSIDE the big sealed beam bulb...
Old September 29th, 2010 | 02:38 AM
  #10  
Yellowstatue's Avatar
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From: Too close to Toronto!!
I love my Cibie headlights...I have a set in my pickup and two 442's and the '57 98 as for wattage there is a legal limit in Ontario of 75? watts...and using your fog lights in traffic is illegal also-sec. 162 HTA...
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