My old 45 AMP Alternator is defect.

The question is now, can i buy a 100 or a better 140 AMP alternator without changing anything or must i change to bigger wire?

Maybe i plan to convert. to electrical fans in the future.

Car is 65 442

 

You may need to change the output wire :

 

is this a output wire:

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...0002/overview/

 

how long must be this output wire and where in the engine room they connected ....inner fender ?

 

Yes, but why do you want that large a wire? A 10 or 8GA will work fine. It will go from the alternator to the Horn relay or you can run it all the way to the battery.

 

hmmm....summit recom. 150 Amps= 6GA

 

Think if switch to strong 2 electr. fans for BB i need 150AMP (mucho stop $ go traffic)

 

Which stile Alternator i need :

• GM CS130 (327)
• GM 10si (244)
• GM CS130D (135)
• GM CS144 (129)
• GM 12si (1

 

You don't need a 150 amp alternator. Summit makes a 70 amp chrome replacement for the older 10DN alternator. Mine came with a proof of performance tag, 53 amps at idle and 82 amps at cruise. It ran my Stratus electric fans without issue. Any of those you listed EXCEPT the 10SI should work. Make sure the 12SI is a true 12SI, many are a weird hybrid. The 10SI case and fan is not designed to cool for higher amperage. I had multiple 100+ amp 10SI alternators fail. The only one that lasted was probably more like 80 amps. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&sourc...CpAw1Dz6KCq5hj Notice the cooling differences.
The CS130 is probably your best bet, a replacement the 88 Cutlass will bolt right in but still need wired in. I used a 4 gauge cable directly from my battery to the positive terminal. The cheap CS130 100 amp Mexico Delco reman died with in a year. No replacement could be found in the system so they gave me a 100 amp Wilson reman 12SI replacement. It charges fine once you rev it up. This is wired the factory dash bulb resistor wire on my 88 Cutlass. Probably a one wire voltage regulator.

 

You can get a 94 amp 12SI from Rock Auto for about $65 from RockAuto. Just order the alternator for a 1986 Caddy Fleetwood with the Olds 307 motor. This alternator bolts directly to your current Olds brackets. No muss, no fuss, and inexpensive.

 

There is a 94 amp internally regulated alternator from the factory. I believe pretty much any car with electric rear defog, A/C, any car with lots of options will have that alternator. There ar conversion kits that plug into the connector for the external regulator. If the alternator is on the drivers side I would think a 8 gauge wire would be plenty if it's connected to the horn relay on the fender.

 

That is the exact alternator I have in my 88, 94 amps. It was supposed to be a CS130 replacement but I took it anyways.

 

Could rebuild your alternator and have them up the output if you have any local rebuilders around you. Did that to a plow truck alternator last year.

 

Right here.
https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&sourc...fAbkNN4lDx-okl

 

Go with the 94 amp suggestions. 94 amps is probably way more output than you will ever need. If you are drawing more amperes than the alternator creates it will rely on the battery reserve until the excessive draw stops and then recharge the battery. A 94 amp alternator with a good battery is more than you will ever need.

Good luck!!!

 

I have Powermaster 140 amp for 10 years with no problems.

I went big. I have dual elect fans, elect water pump, elect fuel pump. Aftermarket sound system. Four high beams two low beam (2AM Interstate driving)

I will get the new pictures of my reworked engine compartment up soon.

And will be putting AC in the car also. 87 Cutlass it only 3 feet from alt to battery. Used 8 Gauge wire.

Depend on what you will be adding over the years.

 

I added a 108 A Delco Remy alternator to my 71 98 after the Jegs alternator I had died. I owned the Jegs one about 5 years and only used my Olds for pleasure driving in fair weather.

Now I have a lifetime warranty on my alternator:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/u...10040=Show+All

It fit on my stock brackets without any problems.

 

Funny thing about lifetime warranty. I always buy Monroe shocks. (Love Sensa-Trac)

I buddy said why pay so much for Monroe, Sear shocks lifetime warranty are half the price! 1970s

After going under his car three time to replace the Sears, he went and got Monroe's

 

THANKS GUY´s

if really don´t need 140Apm i go the rockauto solution, any recom:

http://www.rockauto.com/de/catalog/c...generator,2412

wish you all happy day´S....

 

Go with the best warranty or review. AC Delco are remans from Mexico, mine died after a year.

 

Even the brand new AC Delco alternators have issues. I bought a brand new one for my truck and the rear bearing failed within a month.

 

"Powermaster" Made in USA. Have their XS Torque Starter also. After 12 years spins my high compression sbo 362 with ease.

Hard to see under the Thermo-Tec Starter Heat Shield. Headers get mad hot.

 

Guys, i notice that my output wire not go to the horn relay at the fender or direct to the battery..., it goes any where in the dark space between the fender and the firewall.

Can it be???
sorry for my english

 

If some one read this in the future who need a ALT like i do, the REMY 20269 not fit ( drivers site )


You can corrected it like i do with a spacers and other bolts and make some room in the lower brackets for the nut...but its not a bolt on.

 

Why doesn't it fit? It's a 12SI housing and is dimensionally the same as the original. I've personally used this style in place of an externally regulated alternator with no issues.

 

No threaded lower hole in the ALT. where you tighten the belt.
Wiring connection points are not @ 2 o´clock if view of front of the car- it´s @ 8 o´clock-

You can correct the wire points to the stock position if you turn the ATL to the other site, but than you need spacers because mounting points vice verse.

Sorry my english is not the best :-)

 

Sorry, but I still don't understand where the spacers go. Use a nut an bolt where the housing isn't threaded. You can buy an extension harness for the terminal clocking problem.

 

I have insert a pic for better understanding

 

You do realize that you have the alternator upside down, right? With those particular accessory brackets, the large boss on the alternator fits into the upper bracket and the small boss goes on the slotted lower bracket. Of course, no guarantee that the alternator will clear your tall aftermarket valve covers. That is something you never told us and they may or may not cause a problem as they are somewhat larger than OEM.

 

But this is ok because he changed his car to positive ground.

 

Now you made soda come out my nose.

 

why not do it right and pull the alternator apart and spin the back half 180 degrees.

 

Because that voids the warranty on a brand new alternator. I also don't know the OP's skill level. If you don't know what you're doing, it's very easy to pull the housing far enough to allow the brushes to pop out of place, and if one doesn't know the toothpick trick, they will likely just try to force it back together, wreaking all kinds of havoc.

 

ya do have a point there.