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So I have an electrical issue that I have not experienced before. I hooked up my battery to test my electric fuel pump, and I could immediately smell something. It has been a few years since the last time I started this car. Within a minute the ground side of the battery is getting hot, this is with the key off. I have added an electric fuel pump, 2 electric fans, and a 100 amp alternator. I have an add on circuit boss kit from painless that I pulled the power and trigger wire for the fuel pump. I have bypassed the voltage regulator due to the new higher amp alternator. I am not sure where to start chasing down my issue? Any suggestions are appreciated, thank you.
Troubleshooting w/ a resolution as to issue/cause could turn to ANY piece of equipment in the entire circuit and/or incorrect wiring. However, if you have the key OFF and the GROUND cable heats up (significantly) w/in a minute of being connected, it would most often indicate a significant increase in resistance somewhere along GROUND path (producing heat). Assuming the circuit is wired correctly, the first place to look is ground cable from battery (-) post to engine block. Ensure the connections are absolutely corrosion free at the battery and engine block. Often overlooked is the inside of the ground battery cable itself where heavy green/blue corrosion can often be found on old GROUND cables. Slice open some exterior insulation (at length) and examine for heavy green/blue corrosion. Replace as necessary. Significant increases in corrosion along the GROUND path significantly increases resistance. Increases in resistance along the GROUND path results in the production of heat. Check all GROUND paths emanating directly from the battery - e.g. block, chassis, frame, firewall.
it would most often indicate a significant increase in resistance somewhere along GROUND path (producing heat)
Norm, recall that heat is generated by current flow, with the equation I²R, so this indicates there is significant current flowing and not simply an elevated resistance.
Troubleshooting w/ a resolution as to issue/cause could turn to ANY piece of equipment in the entire circuit and/or incorrect wiring. However, if you have the key OFF and the GROUND cable heats up (significantly) w/in a minute of being connected, it would most often indicate a significant increase in resistance somewhere along GROUND path (producing heat). Assuming the circuit is wired correctly, the first place to look is ground cable from battery (-) post to engine block. Ensure the connections are absolutely corrosion free at the battery and engine block. Often overlooked is the inside of the ground battery cable itself where heavy green/blue corrosion can often be found on old GROUND cables. Slice open some exterior insulation (at length) and examine for heavy green/blue corrosion. Replace as necessary. Significant increases in corrosion along the GROUND path significantly increases resistance. Increases in resistance along the GROUND path results in the production of heat. Check all GROUND paths emanating directly from the battery - e.g. block, chassis, frame, firewall.
The key is off, the load should be minimal. There is a problem and it's not corrosion or resistance.
If you had no problems before all the electrical add-ons then unhook it all. Add one appliance at the time (start with alt) and see if that pinpoints the culprit. Hope this helps!
I have the circuit boss add on fuse panel unhooked, the fuel pump unhooked, and the fans unhooked. Still the same issue, I have the ground hooked to the battery and the positive unhooked. When I put a test light from the positive cable to the positive post on the battery the light comes on. Does this mean somewhere on that circuit it is touching ground?
The key is off, the load should be minimal. There is a problem and it's not corrosion or resistance.
I'll concede the load should be minimal - mostly likely there is a load being applied somewhere. Perhaps if the OP addressed your very first question it might provide some insight? Maybe you should ask the same question again?
I have the battery cable going to the starter, 10g wire from the starter to horn relay, and there will be a 10g wire from horn relay to alternator. The battery is grounded to the block with a braided strap from the block to the body, and a 10g wire from the block to the frame.
1972 Cutlass S. I just took the wire from the starter to the relay off. And with the positive cable unhooked and my test light connected to the positive cable when I touch it to the positive side of the battery the light no longer comes on. Now I am really confused?
1972 Cutlass S. I just took the wire from the starter to the relay off. And with the positive cable unhooked and my test light connected to the positive cable when I touch it to the positive side of the battery the light no longer comes on. Now I am really confused?
Is that w/ the key in the IGN and the IGN SW in the OFF or ON position?
ignition switch off, the key is not all the way in the cylinder. I took the wire with the fusible link off the horn relay and put the wire from the starter back on and the test light did not come on.
I'm pretty certain the (above) wiring diagram is not the 1972 wiring diagram but instead a 1971 wiring diagram. There are differences in the wiring between 1972 & 1971 - notably, to accommodate the difference in location of the horn relay/junction block (referred to in the 1971 wiring diagram as the POWER TAKE OFF). This is the 1972 wiring diagram for the A-Body. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...diagram-16035/
Noteworthy is the difference in location of the horn relay junction box between 1971 (mounted on driver side inner fender) & 1972 (mounted on firewall) which demonstrates the red wire from the starter directly to the horn relay/junction.
Alright, so I have it narrowed down to the cigarette lighter. The wire is not attached to the lighter housing, I am trying to figure out what wire is supposed to be attached to it.
August 29th, 2022, 06:35 PM
