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Hello, working on a "69 Cutlass. My question is about the back up/rerverse light housings on these cars. Are the bulb sockets removeable or are they
permanently attached to housing. At first glance they appear to be permanently fixed into housing. One one mine is pretty beat up (spring contact inside of socket) & was
hoping I could just replace bulb socket.
Thanks
Technically, they are not replaceable. However, with a little effort, you can modify them to accept a different socket. I modified all my bulb housing to use modern bulbs, and the sockets haves ground will. No more relying on the spring clips to provide a ground. Obviously, replacing the complete housing is easier, but I’m kinda cheap. I don’t mind spending money if it’s needed, but if I can fo it better and cheaper, it’s no brained to me
I just replaced both of my back-up lamp (1156) sockets. They're readily available at most automotive parts stores. Disconnect/Cut the wires, remove the socket, clean the paint and corrosion from where the socket sits, install the new socket, reattach wires. It took me one hour to do both backup sockets on my '71 CS.
This is the 'style' of backup (1156) bulb socket you need. The type which press-fits into the hole and allows you to crimp the blades down firmly to successfully hold the socket in place. BTW, this operation can successfully be performed without removing the bumper. Just reach up from underneath & behind the bumper & behind the socket - easy stuff.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; July 21st, 2019 at 10:37 PM.
Vintage Chief, you say "remove the socket". Again, I have a '69 Cutlass S & it appears the socket is permanently attached to back of housing.
Are you sure you I can just pull it out from back of housing ? I tried pulling it apart & it wouldn't budge; maybe it requires more effort. Just didn't want to
break it.
Your appearance in incorrect. The bulb socket is 'pressed' into a hole. The hole was there when your bumper was manufactured. The bulb socket was installed via a hydraulic ram, a pneumatic ram, or an electric ram. An assembly line worker installed the bulb socket(s). I told you how you can access the bulb socket without removing or loosening the bumper - I made no mention of pulling the bulb socket out the rear - but you can if you like. I would suggest you get a flashlight, a screwdriver, and/or a pocket knife and examine the bulb socket with some detail. Scrape some paint corrosion away on the exterior-facing side of the bulb (towards the outside of the bumper inside the backup light lens cover) - right where you see the socket protruding. Note the lip is ever so slightly raised above the surface of the bumper - it is basically "crimped" into this position via a ram to securely fasten the socket. You want to remove this "lip". It doesn't matter how you do it - a screwdriver at an angle with a hammer works, a set of dykes cutting into the lip or whatever.
Here is my method.
(1) From the backside of the bumper I cut the single wire to the single 1156 bulb socket to provide access to the socket;
(2) From the backside of the bumper, I take a pair of long handled locking pliers and I absolutely CRUSH the beaten up socket to death until it is as small as I can make it. Then I take a hammer and beat it to death until it pops out of the front of the bumper (under the backup lens cover). I twist and turn, and beat on it until it pops out. That's it. Done.
(3) With a fine brass wire brush completely clean the circle in the bumper where the bulb socket was and where the new bulb socket is going to be installed. Obviously, this is the ground for the bulb - via the socket's ground to the bumper.
(4) Splice your new bulb socket to the wire you cut;
(5) Insert your new 1156 bulb socket from the backside of the bumper until it is snug in the hole. The "tangs" will protrude through the hole.
(6) Take whatever you like - dykes, needle-nose pliers, a chisel, a screwdriver, a drift - whatever, and ensure those "tangs" overlap the exterior-facing edge of the hole and you're done.
(7) Apply a dab of dielectric grease to the spring contact point and/or the bulb base and insert the bulb. Test before you put the lens cover on. Don't forget you have to be in "Reverse" with the key ON.
Be certain to use heat shrink wrap to cover your splice and cover it securely with heat shrink wrap to ward off rain, moisture, debris, etc. Should take you 1/2 hr. to R&R one 1156 bulb socket.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; July 22nd, 2019 at 03:22 PM.
Reason: sp
^^^THIS^^^ is also another alternative. Very good price for the pair if they are in working order. The sockets probably need a thorough cleaning, is all. You can purchase new spring/contact wire assemblies separately from many of the vendors, also.
Norm, sorry about how I conveyed my question. Can understand the confusion. Full disclosure : I am in the middle of replacing my rear bumper so the old one is currently off of the car.
In an effort to check all electrical wiring & connections (tail lights, reverse lights, & license plate light) while car is sans bumper I went through everything & discovered the passenger side
back up light bulb had a bent staple that was sticking out of the side of the socket. This method allowed the back up light to work previously but ultimately it's not to my liking. Something the previous owner dreamed up I guess.
With the bulb out the spring contact looked compromised also so thus my inquiry about if one can just pull the socket out of the back of housing (much like the tail light housing), cut wire & replace with new socket ; that was the premise
of the original question. Thank you for letting me know that it is indeed pressed in & to remove requires destroying it to get it out. That's what I needed to know. After that the rest is gravy. Will follow your very well laid out instructions
for new socket replacement.
Cheers
Norm, sorry about how I conveyed my question. Can understand the confusion. Full disclosure : I am in the middle of replacing my rear bumper so the old one is currently off of the car.
In an effort to check all electrical wiring & connections (tail lights, reverse lights, & license plate light) while car is sans bumper I went through everything & discovered the passenger side
back up light bulb had a bent staple that was sticking out of the side of the socket. This method allowed the back up light to work previously but ultimately it's not to my liking. Something the previous owner dreamed up I guess.
With the bulb out the spring contact looked compromised also so thus my inquiry about if one can just pull the socket out of the back of housing (much like the tail light housing), cut wire & replace with new socket ; that was the premise
of the original question. Thank you for letting me know that it is indeed pressed in & to remove requires destroying it to get it out. That's what I needed to know. After that the rest is gravy. Will follow your very well laid out instructions
for new socket replacement.
Cheers
Well, that makes more sense. Additionally, you can grab that pair of backup light housings tru-blue 442 mentioned. When you get your mind wrapped around it, you can decide if you want to R&R the bulb socket or go w/ the used backup light housings alternative. IMO, I'd suggest if one is beat up now, the other isn't far behind & you might do both.
July 21st, 2019, 06:27 PM
