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So replacing the wires to the starter solenoid on my 1974 cutlass. Found this bad boy... anyone know if this is factory or something, any info appreciated.
Might want to loom the yellow & black small gauge wires together and add some wire loom to the fusible link. You can get it at the local hardware store or even Horrible Freight.
So replacing the wires to the starter solenoid on my 1974 cutlass. Found this bad boy... anyone know if this is factory or something, any info appreciated.
Not hijacking your thread, but I noticed your oil breather cap is upside down
On that fusible link, I believe most were installed at the factory and not aware of them available otherwise. The reason I mention this is that on the left is a black wire and on the left is a red wire, doesn't seem like factory. Also, the black wire looks older and to have been exposed to heat from either engine heat or excessive current at one time but the red wire looks to be in good shape. Finally, the red wire is a larger gauge. Is it possible that at one time that wire was all black, had an heavy current surge before the link blew ( fused ) and a repair was made with a new link and a red wire? Just wondering...
This is the primary fusible link from the starter to the junction block. Doesn't appear to have ever been replaced or repaired.
Fusible link wire is available at most any parts store. Some even have it premade in pigtails. The connector may not be as nice and weatherproof as a factory piece but properly crimped with heat shrink tubing it will work fine.
The black (probably brown actually) side is the fusible link wire. It's 14ga and connects to the starter solenoid. Red side is 10ga and connects to the junction block. This is the car's main power feed. You burn this one up you have problems.
Secondary fusible link is fed from junction block to the constant powered 12v equipment. Link is 16ga, and the red side on that one is 10ga. Powers ignition switch, main lamp switch, and the constant 12v buss in the fuse block.
From 74 CSM:
Last edited by rocketraider; Sep 10, 2023 at 10:28 AM.
On that fusible link, I believe most were installed at the factory and not aware of them available otherwise. The reason I mention this is that on the left is a black wire and on the left is a red wire, doesn't seem like factory. Also, the black wire looks older and to have been exposed to heat from either engine heat or excessive current at one time but the red wire looks to be in good shape. Finally, the red wire is a larger gauge. Is it possible that at one time that wire was all black, had an heavy current surge before the link blew ( fused ) and a repair was made with a new link and a red wire? Just wondering...
You are correct this is why I'm replacing it. Had a bit of a snafu with the alternator wire touching the back of the case and the battery still connected. But it overheated and burnt. So replaceing the starter solenoid and some wires.
This is the primary fusible link from the starter to the junction block. Doesn't appear to have ever been replaced or repaired.
Fusible link wire is available at most any parts store. Some even have it premade in pigtails. The connector may not be as nice and weatherproof as a factory piece but properly crimped with heat shrink tubing it will work fine.
The black (probably brown actually) side is the fusible link wire. It's 14ga and connects to the starter solenoid. Red side is 10ga and connects to the junction block. This is the car's main power feed. You burn this one up you have problems.
Secondary fusible link is fed from junction block to the constant powered 12v equipment. Link is 16ga, and the red side on that one is 10ga. Powers ignition switch, main lamp switch, and the constant 12v buss in the fuse block.
From 74 CSM:
Thank you this is very very helpful, does that 10g need to be updated with a higher amp alternator
The fusible link wire (also called "pico" wire) is a special flame-resistant wire use as a sacrificial link to burn out before the rest of the wire harness can be damaged. The general rule of thumb for fusible links is to size them 4 wire sizes smaller than the wire to be protected; i.e. a 14awg link will protect a 10awg wire. The pico wire is available on Amazon, here's a link for the 2sq mm/14awg pico wire:
I don't think so, unless you're adding a ton of electrical load. An alternator is only going to supply the amperage the car's electrical system is demanding and with typical 10-12 foot automotive wire runs, 10ga should be capable of handling 50+ amps easy enough.
If you put in a bigass sound system, you'd want a 8 or maybe even 6ga FUSED wire run from alternator output post back to either the battery (+) or to a buss bar dedicated solely to powering the sound equipment.
Well here I've been in electronics for ages and worked on many cars and to my stupidity I have always thought that the connector was the fusible link, not the actual wire. Thanks for clarifying that for all of us rocketraider. So the 14 ga brown wire IS the fusilbe link. Looks to me like it has done it's job and has somewhat fused...slightly...
I don't think so, unless you're adding a ton of electrical load. An alternator is only going to supply the amperage the car's electrical system is demanding and with typical 10-12 foot automotive wire runs, 10ga should be capable of handling 50+ amps easy enough.
If you put in a bigass sound system, you'd want a 8 or maybe even 6ga FUSED wire run from alternator output post back to either the battery (+) or to a buss bar dedicated solely to powering the sound equipment.
I think you have to size it for the alternator. If you shorted somewhere on that wire to ground the alternator will put out full amperage and burn up the 10ga wire. You should size the wire for the max amperage even if you will never hit it. Just like you don't run 16 gauge house wiring on a 20 amp breaker even if you know it will never draw more than 1 amp.
By that logic he'd have to replace the main 12v power feed wire from starter solenoid to junction block, then to the light switch, ignition switch, constant 12v fuse block buss and alternator.
OP, what amp rating alternator are you using and what is your anticipated electrical load in this car?
So replacing the wires to the starter solenoid on my 1974 cutlass. Found this bad boy... anyone know if this is factory or something, any info appreciated.
I STRONGLY suggest you purchase an original OEM 1974 Oldsmobile paperback (used) Chassis Service Manual (which also contains the color wiring diagram). Many available - do your research.
By that logic he'd have to replace the main 12v power feed wire from starter solenoid to junction block, then to the light switch, ignition switch, constant 12v fuse block buss and alternator.
OP, what amp rating alternator are you using and what is your anticipated electrical load in this car?
This is the way Uncle Tony explains the job of a fusible link...
