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Alternator, 72 H/O, appears to have been monkeyed with
As I work on this thing, I find more and more things that have been fixed, but incorrectly.
Having alternator noise, I believe, while driving. There is a background whirr in sync with RPM speed. It is not a vacuum leak suction noise, but a noisy bearing sort of noise.
This car is supposed to have an external regulator alternator. Should be a 1102439 unless a rear defrost car, and mine is not such. 55 amps.
The alternator on the car is internally regulated. The harness is for that configuration (I assume plug is swapped.) The voltage regulator, when I tugged on the harness, is jumpered neatly. I have a spare alternator, made in China, that will work on the car in its current configuration.
The correct thing to do is to source the right alternator, have it rebuilt, change the plug on the harness, and plug the voltage regulator back in. Temporarily, I can run the other alternator. One either runs an internal regulator alternator with the firewall external regulator jumpered, or swap to external regulated alternator and use the external regulator. Not both, and not neither.
Am I correct in all this?
Edit: there are no delco codes stamped in either current or new alternator.
Yes, you are correct in everything you wrote. I'm sure you're aware that the 1972 alternators are the one-year-only housings that look like the 10SI but are really 10DN in a unique housing. The correct 1972 rear housing looks like this. Note the shape of the connector hole that can accept both the 10DN and 10SI plugs.
Just guessing, but the likely reason there are no codes or other "Delco-Remy" markings on your alternators is that the "Delco" that was on the car appears to have different patinas in the aluminum from front case half to rear case half. The rear half looks like a genuine "Delco" part and the front looks newer, likely aftermarket replacement, due to no markings on it anywhere. Doesn't make it bad, just no date/amp ratings stamps. The Chinesium one, well, that speaks for itself.
I can't tell from Koda's photos if the rear half has the correct notch for the 10DN plug or not. It is possible to replace the internal regulator with the terminal assembly used in these 1972 10DN alternators.
Build date shows 1M23, which, if my code busting is correct, Dec 23, 1971 date code. Is that close to yours?
It'll definitely need rebuilding/refurbishing, but Patton Glade (70Post) can hook you up and make it look brandy new again if you wanted to go that route.
first pic shows 10 SI end, and last pic shows a 10DN end. The difference being the little support tab seen under the !0 SI plug and none on the 10DN plug.
Yes, you are correct in everything you wrote. I'm sure you're aware that the 1972 alternators are the one-year-only housings that look like the 10SI but are really 10DN in a unique housing. The correct 1972 rear housing looks like this. Note the shape of the connector hole that can accept both the 10DN and 10SI plugs.
Understood. I will look for one of these.
Originally Posted by 69HO43
Just guessing, but the likely reason there are no codes or other "Delco-Remy" markings on your alternators is that the "Delco" that was on the car appears to have different patinas in the aluminum from front case half to rear case half. The rear half looks like a genuine "Delco" part and the front looks newer, likely aftermarket replacement, due to no markings on it anywhere. Doesn't make it bad, just no date/amp ratings stamps. The Chinesium one, well, that speaks for itself.
That could be. I have to take the car on a trip next weekend, so the Chicom one will get used for a little while, and the current one will ride along with me.
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
I can't tell from Koda's photos if the rear half has the correct notch for the 10DN plug or not. It is possible to replace the internal regulator with the terminal assembly used in these 1972 10DN alternators.
Build date shows 1M23, which, if my code busting is correct, Dec 23, 1971 date code. Is that close to yours?
It'll definitely need rebuilding/refurbishing, but Patton Glade (70Post) can hook you up and make it look brandy new again if you wanted to go that route.
I'll look at that one and others. I have a good shop in town, did my starter a couple years ago. Very happy with the starter. Patton is the man, regardless.
Originally Posted by stellar
first pic shows 10 SI end, and last pic shows a 10DN end. The difference being the little support tab seen under the !0 SI plug and none on the 10DN plug.
Sorry, Joe, I've had 2 cups of coffee this morning and it apparently isn't enough.
Are you saying I could put that part in my current alternator, have it modified to be externally regulated, change the plug on the harness to "blades in parallel" of an externally regulated alternator, and use my external regulator?
That terminal replaces the internal voltage regulator and with the correct harness plug will let you use the external regulator. I didn't notice that boss on the housing. Is that actually part of the casting or is it part of the voltage regulator inside? If it's part of the casting, a die grinder should fix that.
That terminal replaces the internal voltage regulator and with the correct harness plug will let you use the external regulator. I didn't notice that boss on the housing. Is that actually part of the casting or is it part of the voltage regulator inside? If it's part of the casting, a die grinder should fix that.
Understood on all. Thank you. I may have all that done by my alternator shop if I redo this one. Or, I may look for a numbers stamped core. Maybe a little nicer than that ebay one.
May 11th, 2024, 04:31 PM
