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I installed an aftermarket 220amp alternator and update the major "big 3" electrical under the hood, as I added a few electronics to the Cutlass and wanted the reliability and increased performance. She's a 1972 Cutlass 350/Th350.
I asked the manufacturer and the new alternator has an internal voltage regulator (like most newer alts. have), but I still have the stock (not original, of course) voltage regulator installed on the firewall. Is this something I can remove/uninstall considering the new alternator has an internal regulator already?
It doesn't matter - the regulator is in the alternator, so the one on the firewall needs to go. Yes, if it is a one wire then you don't need to worry about jumpering the connections to the old regulator.
More to the point, do you plan to arc weld with that thing? Why 220 amps?
It doesn't matter - the regulator is in the alternator, so the one on the firewall needs to go. Yes, if it is a one wire then you don't need to worry about jumpering the connections to the old regulator.
More to the point, do you plan to arc weld with that thing? Why 220 amps?
Thanks!
1) Anything I need to cap-off or be aware of when removing the original-style regulator?
2) Also, from the photo above; what is the capacitor-looking metal thing just next to the regulator on the firewall?
3) Future electric fan installation, and 3000w rms amp.
1) The simple answer is to just unplug it. Joe will probably correct me, but thinking off the cuff, you'll be fine. It's generally better to do a three wire conversion so the alternator gets an excite and reference voltage, and you can just jumper the old regulator connector to get the correct connections. There's plenty of writeups on the internet about that since those conversions have been done for a few decades now. Check out MAD Electrical. They have some good tech articles too.
2) It is a capacitor! Used for noise suppression. Helps reduce ignition (electrical) noise from affecting the radio. Not essential. You'll notice them sprinkled around, like on the ignition coil and there's usually one or two under the dash.
3) Just note that the units that claim more than 160 amps out of a small case (a 6.6" case like the 10SI/12SI/CS130) are either lying or really pushing it. These small units can overheat and kill the internal diodes or regulator pretty quickly.
2) It is a capacitor! Used for noise suppression. Helps reduce ignition (electrical) noise from affecting the radio. Not essential. You'll notice them sprinkled around, like on the ignition coil and there's usually one or two under the dash.
Specifically, that condenser is there to suppress radio noise generated when the contacts in the factory mechanical regulator open and close. It can leave along with the original regulator.
3) Just note that the units that claim more than 160 amps out of a small case (a 6.6" case like the 10SI/12SI/CS130) are either lying or really pushing it. These small units can overheat and kill the internal diodes or regulator pretty quickly.
Also, if you REALLY think you are drawing anywhere near 220 amps, you had better install a MUCH larger wire out of the alternator or risk melting the original one.
If it is really a 220 amp unit, you may want to check voltage at low RPM under a load. That type of unit has been known to have low volts at low RPM when boosted to that high of amperage. They work good at high revs. Add up the amps needed with the goodies you will be using and get an alternator to carry it. Even 160 amps in that unit is pushing it.
1) The simple answer is to just unplug it. Joe will probably correct me, but thinking off the cuff, you'll be fine. It's generally better to do a three wire conversion so the alternator gets an excite and reference voltage, and you can just jumper the old regulator connector to get the correct connections. There's plenty of writeups on the internet about that since those conversions have been done for a few decades now. Check out MAD Electrical. They have some good tech articles too.
2) It is a capacitor! Used for noise suppression. Helps reduce ignition (electrical) noise from affecting the radio. Not essential. You'll notice them sprinkled around, like on the ignition coil and there's usually one or two under the dash.
3) Just note that the units that claim more than 160 amps out of a small case (a 6.6" case like the 10SI/12SI/CS130) are either lying or really pushing it. These small units can overheat and kill the internal diodes or regulator pretty quickly.
Thanks - I'll have to find one of those write ups, but I'll try and just disconnect everything and see how it goes, including that capacitor.
I've rated the alternator when active, and it powers as advertised. 5 year warrantee - it wasn't cheap. I've used used this companies alternators for many years and never had an issue (one vehicle for 11 years, now). Thanks for the concern, though!
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Specifically, that condenser is there to suppress radio noise generated when the contacts in the factory mechanical regulator open and close. It can leave along with the original regulator.
Also, if you REALLY think you are drawing anywhere near 220 amps, you had better install a MUCH larger wire out of the alternator or risk melting the original one.
The wire is 0 guage... not sure how much larger I can do! It is fine - and fused, etc.
Originally Posted by stellar
If it is really a 220 amp unit, you may want to check voltage at low RPM under a load. That type of unit has been known to have low volts at low RPM when boosted to that high of amperage. They work good at high revs. Add up the amps needed with the goodies you will be using and get an alternator to carry it. Even 160 amps in that unit is pushing it.
Idle in this car is around 600rpms - and at that speed we measured 155 amps produced. 217 amps anything above 1,200rpms. She's a great alt!
1) The simple answer is to just unplug it. Joe will probably correct me, but thinking off the cuff, you'll be fine. It's generally better to do a three wire conversion so the alternator gets an excite and reference voltage, and you can just jumper the old regulator connector to get the correct connections. There's plenty of writeups on the internet about that since those conversions have been done for a few decades now. Check out MAD Electrical. They have some good tech articles too.
What potential issues could I run into without converting to a 3-wire design?
September 4th, 2018, 10:46 AM
