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Looking for recommendations. I am in the process of installing all new wiring right now. I want to install after market power door locks and power trunk latch. I would like to see if anyone else has done this and what manufacture any of you would recommend.
Amazon has a wide variety of door lock actuator kits w/ remotes. Years ago I installed a Commando alarm / remote start / door lock system in my '99 Dakota. It worked great, came w/ most all hardware to get the lock actuators to function. I had to rig up my own lock/unlock switches on the doors, but no big deal. No more difficult to install than a stereo.
The door lock actuators just clamp on to the existing rod(s). Aftermarket trunk release solenoids are usually cable pull, and won't work on an older GM style trunk latch.
I recommend DEI products (Python, Viper, Automate, etc).
Since I’m cheap, I adapted common G body (also used on 88-95 GM full size trucks, and I think S-10/Astro van) door lock actuators to my 69.
if you look at the door below the latch, you will see two dimples. Those are for the factory style door lock actuators. If I remember correctly (I did this conversion probably 20 years ago, so I’m a little fuzzy on the details) I had to drill different holes in the G body mounting bracket to match the A body dimples.
The factory A body door lock actuators are really 2 seperate solenoid with a common ground. One solenoid locks, the other unlocks. The Gbody work by reversing polarity. Once again, because I am cheap I used a common late model GM door lock relay. To make diagnostics easier, I used factory wire colors. Orange is hot at all times, white is positive trigger to lock, blue is positive trigger to unlock. There is tan and gray wire from the relay to the door lock actuators.
For power trunk, I was lucky enough to find a junkyard car that had power trunk. The factory power truck solenoid bolts to the factory latch, making it an easy zero fabrication addition.
I strongly encourage you to search online for user reviews of this system. A few years back there were lots of complaints about the aftermarket power window kits (I don't remember the name of the company) but the complaint was the teeth were stripping off the window regulators because they were not hardened steel or were too soft. The conversion system worked fine for a while but then the teeth starting stripping off creating "dead" spots where the windows would stop moving. I decided to stay with known, factory parts for my power window conversion and bought used, working regulators and motors.
I wanted to add one-touch functionality to my 442 convertible so I only had to bump the switch once to lower or raise the windows. To accomplish this, I used 2 DEI535 window controllers from Direct Electronics, the same company that makes many of the after market car alarm systems. One DEI535 control module can provide one-touch down for all 4 windows or one-touch up and down for 2 windows. I used 2 control modules; 1 for the front windows and another for the rear; this provided one-touch up and down for all the windows. The problem I ran into is the factory 1972 window motors use 2 separate windings inside the motor (1 for up and 1 for down); the DEI modules will not work with the factory 2-winding motors. The DEI modules need reversible motors that use the same winding and swap the polarity for up vs. down.
In order to use the DEI window modules, I had to find reversible motors that would work with the original, 1972 factory regulators. I discovered the later G-body cars used reversible window motors and had the same tooth count on the drive gear as the 1972 motors, but the G-body motors would need adapter plates to mount to the earlier year regulators. I fabb'd up some adapter plates from 12 gauge steel with some 10-32 standoffs and voila; stock-ish reversible windows. Unfortunately, this required a completely custom wiring harness, but my background is electrical engineering so the project wasn't daunting, it just required alot of design and fabrication time.
You can check it out in my build thread, the wiring harness is in post#185, the window motor adapters are shown in post#364.
I want to install after market power door locks and power trunk latch.
Do you want simply power locks, or do you want remote control as well? This can be a very simple operation, with simple solenoids and switches as matt showed above, or could get as complex as you desire, with the ability to control things wirelessly with a fob or even your phone.
I used an Autoloc RKE (remote keyless entry) kit off eBay. It was pretty straightforward. It came with two solenoids with brackets, the module, wiring and key fobs for the doors. It is also compatible with factory or aftermarket power trunk latches. These kits range in price quite a bit so I would shop around. Some more info and pictures below.
Wow, almost 4 bills! Just so you know- it's about $100 worth of parts. You can find G-body trunk poppers for about $40 on ebay. In fact, as mentioned, G body lock actuators should work as well.
I hadn't heard about the window kits being problematic. I have 2 sets to do my 95 Suburban, fingers crossed.
My memory is off, as far as mounting and operation, but I think it could still work after eyeballing the 67.
The passenger side mounting bolt looks very close. The 67 is a solid panel, so some access holes would have to be made. The G latch hangs down, exposed, making it easier.
The tab needs to be bent back to expose the latch, first. (Right side of pic without popper)
Bruce, are G-body trunk poppers easily adapted to an old A body?
With a little fabrication, they are easily adapted. I did it years ago. It works very well.
The factory actuators are very heavy. They only difference with the G body actuators is the lack of the heavy “thud” of the old actuators. The G body’s aren’t nearly as massive.
My power trunk lock fits inside the deck lid. I also installed an alarm system with remote key fobs. I used DEI door lock actuators that connect to the stock door lock rods. Here's some pics
Rodney
This is the power trunk actuator on my '72 442 convertible; it mounts inside the deck lid.
I installed these door lock actuators that came with my Viper alarm system. They are significantly lighter than the stock actuators.
I mounted them on a metal plate I bought at Home Depot. I used a Molex .093" connector on the pigtail.
