72 Olds Cutlass Supreme, possible eletrical problems
72 Olds Cutlass Supreme, possible eletrical problems
Hey guys,
I have a 1972 cutlass supreme hardtop and just recently started to have some funny issues with the starter. About two weeks I ago I started the car and it was making an awful noise, come to find out the starter is running continously. When I would try to turn the car off it would not, I had to disconnect the battery. I figured its got to be some wiring right?
Well, about two days later my park lights stay on. Even if the car is off and key is out, they still continue to stay on, so the car is now sitting with the battery cable disconnected. I have some people who are some what familiar with my car but they take too long to help and I really want to try to fix this on my own. Does any one have any ideas on what this could be? Could these be related in any way. Any advise would be totally helpful! Thanks so Much
Jacqueline
I have a 1972 cutlass supreme hardtop and just recently started to have some funny issues with the starter. About two weeks I ago I started the car and it was making an awful noise, come to find out the starter is running continously. When I would try to turn the car off it would not, I had to disconnect the battery. I figured its got to be some wiring right?
Well, about two days later my park lights stay on. Even if the car is off and key is out, they still continue to stay on, so the car is now sitting with the battery cable disconnected. I have some people who are some what familiar with my car but they take too long to help and I really want to try to fix this on my own. Does any one have any ideas on what this could be? Could these be related in any way. Any advise would be totally helpful! Thanks so Much
Jacqueline
The parking lights are not dependant on the ignition being on so I think you have some larger issues at work here. Take a good look at the wires where the harnesses attach to the firewall under the master cylinder. If they look anything like mine did it would behoove you to replace the harnesses and be done with it. Remember you are dealing with almost 40 year old wiring and you never know how it has been abused over the years.
Make sure your hazard flasher switch is all the way in. Turn them off and on a couple of times. If its sorta stuck in between, your parking lights will stay on. That happened to me awhile back.
My dome lights were staying on continually after I had the interior done. It turned out the guy at the interior shop accidentally shorted one of the wires to ground which kept the dome lights on all the time. I was able to fix it by going through all of the screws and bolts the interior shop guy had disassembled to redo the interior. It only took an hour or so.
Perhaps you have a similar problem. Good luck.
Perhaps you have a similar problem. Good luck.
welcome to the site!
As for the starter issue, i would first suspect the starter solenoid is sticking. If this happens, the starter would stay running, still engaged with the flywheel, and 12V will stay applied to the coil (connected by the solenoid), keeping the engine running.
If that is okay, look at the ignition switch or maybe the linkage. The switch is located under the dash on top of the lower steering column. A linkage connects the switch with the key lock.
Check for smooth linkage movement with the battery disconnected, cycling the key to each position.
As for your parking lights (assuming running lights including side markers), pull out the TAIL fuse and see if they go off. If so, then the light switch may be stuck on (replace switch). If they remain on with the fuse pulled, then there is a short elsewhere in the light circuit.
As for the starter issue, i would first suspect the starter solenoid is sticking. If this happens, the starter would stay running, still engaged with the flywheel, and 12V will stay applied to the coil (connected by the solenoid), keeping the engine running.
If that is okay, look at the ignition switch or maybe the linkage. The switch is located under the dash on top of the lower steering column. A linkage connects the switch with the key lock.
Check for smooth linkage movement with the battery disconnected, cycling the key to each position.
As for your parking lights (assuming running lights including side markers), pull out the TAIL fuse and see if they go off. If so, then the light switch may be stuck on (replace switch). If they remain on with the fuse pulled, then there is a short elsewhere in the light circuit.
Could you give me some more?
welcome to the site!
As for the starter issue, i would first suspect the starter solenoid is sticking. If this happens, the starter would stay running, still engaged with the flywheel, and 12V will stay applied to the coil (connected by the solenoid), keeping the engine running.
If that is okay, look at the ignition switch or maybe the linkage. The switch is located under the dash on top of the lower steering column. A linkage connects the switch with the key lock.
Check for smooth linkage movement with the battery disconnected, cycling the key to each position.
As for your parking lights (assuming running lights including side markers), pull out the TAIL fuse and see if they go off. If so, then the light switch may be stuck on (replace switch). If they remain on with the fuse pulled, then there is a short elsewhere in the light circuit.
As for the starter issue, i would first suspect the starter solenoid is sticking. If this happens, the starter would stay running, still engaged with the flywheel, and 12V will stay applied to the coil (connected by the solenoid), keeping the engine running.
If that is okay, look at the ignition switch or maybe the linkage. The switch is located under the dash on top of the lower steering column. A linkage connects the switch with the key lock.
Check for smooth linkage movement with the battery disconnected, cycling the key to each position.
As for your parking lights (assuming running lights including side markers), pull out the TAIL fuse and see if they go off. If so, then the light switch may be stuck on (replace switch). If they remain on with the fuse pulled, then there is a short elsewhere in the light circuit.
Okay so here we go, I just wanted to thank all of you for your help!!! Rob, I am sorry about the error in my posting. I had some questions, hoping that some of you could help me maybe, sorry so long...
So I took off the Neutral saftey switch,(ROB) I hope this was what you were talking about. So when I took it off I noticed it had two plugs connected to it. It also had a thing (?) which slided back and forth on it. I slid the little thing and it was not a smooth glid, it gets stuck (very little though). As I continued to play with this and try and start the car, I noticed that at some points the car would not even start and since I have had this unbolted from the column the car has started great, however it did start twice and the starte got stuck. Could this be the switch that I need to replace?
Also, my parking lights. I tried the fuse (s) in the box and yes, they do continue to stay on, so I am a little nervous that I have a big problem with the electrical.. I have heard that this can be a very tramatic issue and has caused some people to get rid of their cars. Does anyone have any advice on an internet site that could I guess give me some step by step guidence, or even a book that may teach me a little more about that and maybe my car. I love to be in my car and would drive it every day if I could, I just wanna also make sure it is running right too...
Thank you all for listening to my troubles, I have had three cutlasses and I love the one I have know and really wanna get to know the inside and out of my car, I just not to sure where to go.. Thanks!!!
So I took off the Neutral saftey switch,(ROB) I hope this was what you were talking about. So when I took it off I noticed it had two plugs connected to it. It also had a thing (?) which slided back and forth on it. I slid the little thing and it was not a smooth glid, it gets stuck (very little though). As I continued to play with this and try and start the car, I noticed that at some points the car would not even start and since I have had this unbolted from the column the car has started great, however it did start twice and the starte got stuck. Could this be the switch that I need to replace?
Also, my parking lights. I tried the fuse (s) in the box and yes, they do continue to stay on, so I am a little nervous that I have a big problem with the electrical.. I have heard that this can be a very tramatic issue and has caused some people to get rid of their cars. Does anyone have any advice on an internet site that could I guess give me some step by step guidence, or even a book that may teach me a little more about that and maybe my car. I love to be in my car and would drive it every day if I could, I just wanna also make sure it is running right too...
Thank you all for listening to my troubles, I have had three cutlasses and I love the one I have know and really wanna get to know the inside and out of my car, I just not to sure where to go.. Thanks!!!
Before you pull you hair out...I would take a close look at all of your wiring under the dash...(with a good light) IF you see any melted wires anywhere...get ready for some real fun. (it is not that bad). My history, I redid my entire fuse box and dash wiring... it all started with one melted wire I could only see part of it. I had time to pull the fuse box and chase the one wire, it lead to several wires melted together. Note: I did not have any problems with lights or anything to my knowledge, and I have had the car for 18+ yrs. As well, look at every wire under the hood from box to starter and pay close attention to the several wires going to the starter solenoid, even your positive (+) battery cable, etc.
I think this is a good place to start to really solve your problems. At least you will know if anything is grounding out, or mall'ed together.
PM if you have any questions.
I think this is a good place to start to really solve your problems. At least you will know if anything is grounding out, or mall'ed together.
PM if you have any questions.
Rob said the ignition switch, not the neutral safety switch.
I would put that back before you accidentally start the car in gear and it takes off on you, very dangerous.
The key switch on the column has a rod /rack mechanism that goes down the steering column and activates the actual ignition switch that is on the top of the lower column between the dash and the neutral safety switch. The rod can stick and not release the switch when you let go of the key after it starts. Are the dash idiot lights on when the starter keeps going? There could be a bad part in the column or it could need lube inside the column on the rack and sector gear area if it sticks. Broken gear teeth could be jamming it , all kinds of stuff in there has to move freely It could be a bad or jamming starter solenoid too. Figuring out wiring is just a process of elimination, no big deal or reason to sell the car, anything can be fixed.
You need the CSM, factory assembly manual and the Fisher Body manual if you're really serious about working on these cars, second thing you should buy after the car. If you're really serious you get them and study up and know the vehicle before you buy it.
I did.
I'm just perfect.

This shows the rod and switch and internal stuff that can go bad or get stuck.
http://www.buickperformance.com/tilt...lumnwobble.htm

I would put that back before you accidentally start the car in gear and it takes off on you, very dangerous.
The key switch on the column has a rod /rack mechanism that goes down the steering column and activates the actual ignition switch that is on the top of the lower column between the dash and the neutral safety switch. The rod can stick and not release the switch when you let go of the key after it starts. Are the dash idiot lights on when the starter keeps going? There could be a bad part in the column or it could need lube inside the column on the rack and sector gear area if it sticks. Broken gear teeth could be jamming it , all kinds of stuff in there has to move freely It could be a bad or jamming starter solenoid too. Figuring out wiring is just a process of elimination, no big deal or reason to sell the car, anything can be fixed.

You need the CSM, factory assembly manual and the Fisher Body manual if you're really serious about working on these cars, second thing you should buy after the car. If you're really serious you get them and study up and know the vehicle before you buy it. I did.
I'm just perfect.


This shows the rod and switch and internal stuff that can go bad or get stuck.
http://www.buickperformance.com/tilt...lumnwobble.htm
I couldn't agree more to replace the entire harness if you can afford it. (around $150). Then go from there. I have a '72 Supreme also and replacing the harness fixed many problems. So you are in the Bay area also? Bring your ride up to Santa Rosa this June for the Peggy Sue's Cruise. We need more Oldsmobiles! Chumley

OMG ROB!!! lol.. um I replaced the neutral safety switch... and went through hell trying to find the right one! uh-oh... oh well at least that is new. No the car did not get away from me, I read the instructions and installed the device with the cable off and the car in Neutral. The car seems to be starting fine, however not perfectly. It did something funny with the starter once and then now seems okay. I plan to continue to watch this.
I am laughing right now cause I went through so much the last two days to get the dang switch replaced and its not even the right thing..!!!!
The lights, oh the good ole lights, now not only are my side slights and my front park lights on, but now the tail lights stay one.. AHHHHH. These cars can get very tricky! I looked under the dash for any melted wires, checked the fuses played with the light switch, the hazzard switch and even took the steering wheel off and go to a point to where I could not really go anywhere else. I don't know how to get to the inside of the column where the hazzard switch is...
I am really as mess, and yes Rob I am serious!!! :P I wanna know the inside and outside of my car... I need help and no one really to turn too...
CHUMLEY... I WILL SEE YOU AT THE CRUISE, ALWAYS LOOKING FOR NEW THINGS TO ATTEND!!
You guys and this site has helped me a whole bunch...
I am laughing right now cause I went through so much the last two days to get the dang switch replaced and its not even the right thing..!!!!
The lights, oh the good ole lights, now not only are my side slights and my front park lights on, but now the tail lights stay one.. AHHHHH. These cars can get very tricky! I looked under the dash for any melted wires, checked the fuses played with the light switch, the hazzard switch and even took the steering wheel off and go to a point to where I could not really go anywhere else. I don't know how to get to the inside of the column where the hazzard switch is...
I am really as mess, and yes Rob I am serious!!! :P I wanna know the inside and outside of my car... I need help and no one really to turn too...
CHUMLEY... I WILL SEE YOU AT THE CRUISE, ALWAYS LOOKING FOR NEW THINGS TO ATTEND!!
You guys and this site has helped me a whole bunch...
I see.... and read the link... now I get it.
Rob said the ignition switch, not the neutral safety switch.
I would put that back before you accidentally start the car in gear and it takes off on you, very dangerous.
The key switch on the column has a rod /rack mechanism that goes down the steering column and activates the actual ignition switch that is on the top of the lower column between the dash and the neutral safety switch. The rod can stick and not release the switch when you let go of the key after it starts. Are the dash idiot lights on when the starter keeps going? There could be a bad part in the column or it could need lube inside the column on the rack and sector gear area if it sticks. Broken gear teeth could be jamming it , all kinds of stuff in there has to move freely It could be a bad or jamming starter solenoid too. Figuring out wiring is just a process of elimination, no big deal or reason to sell the car, anything can be fixed.
You need the CSM, factory assembly manual and the Fisher Body manual if you're really serious about working on these cars, second thing you should buy after the car. If you're really serious you get them and study up and know the vehicle before you buy it.
I did.
I'm just perfect.

This shows the rod and switch and internal stuff that can go bad or get stuck.
http://www.buickperformance.com/tilt...lumnwobble.htm

I would put that back before you accidentally start the car in gear and it takes off on you, very dangerous.
The key switch on the column has a rod /rack mechanism that goes down the steering column and activates the actual ignition switch that is on the top of the lower column between the dash and the neutral safety switch. The rod can stick and not release the switch when you let go of the key after it starts. Are the dash idiot lights on when the starter keeps going? There could be a bad part in the column or it could need lube inside the column on the rack and sector gear area if it sticks. Broken gear teeth could be jamming it , all kinds of stuff in there has to move freely It could be a bad or jamming starter solenoid too. Figuring out wiring is just a process of elimination, no big deal or reason to sell the car, anything can be fixed.

You need the CSM, factory assembly manual and the Fisher Body manual if you're really serious about working on these cars, second thing you should buy after the car. If you're really serious you get them and study up and know the vehicle before you buy it. I did.
I'm just perfect.


This shows the rod and switch and internal stuff that can go bad or get stuck.
http://www.buickperformance.com/tilt...lumnwobble.htm
And a Service Manual, if you can drop the doe on one.
Great, easy fix.
Last edited by hamm36; Apr 2, 2010 at 09:29 PM.
Jannebill,
Sorry to disappear on ya, For the past week, I am somehow blocked out of this website at home (have no clue why).
I hope you put the neutral switch back in. Car will not start without it. Before tightening it down, adjust it. With engine off, shifter in reverse, adjust until backup lights come on, then tighten the switch down.
I really think your starter solenoid is sticking. Has the starter itself ever been replaced?
If that is okay, then look at ignition switch.
Glad you found the issue with the lights - many alarm system installations are substandard and cause more trouble over time.
Sorry to disappear on ya, For the past week, I am somehow blocked out of this website at home (have no clue why).

I hope you put the neutral switch back in. Car will not start without it. Before tightening it down, adjust it. With engine off, shifter in reverse, adjust until backup lights come on, then tighten the switch down.
I really think your starter solenoid is sticking. Has the starter itself ever been replaced?
If that is okay, then look at ignition switch.
Glad you found the issue with the lights - many alarm system installations are substandard and cause more trouble over time.
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