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Good evening
i have a 68 98 sedan than ,i am trying to fix the electrical problems.(power windows stop, radio , hazard, interior lights never worked)only have the car for 6 months
I order the chassis maintenance book
The fuse box has been shop
I am wandering if the box is original too the car
68 Oldsmobile 98 sedan
Thank you for any info
I hate dealing with OPW (Other People's Wiring). Why do people suck so badly at electrons? What a mess. None of that pink shrink sleeving is factory. The factory for the most part didn't use black electrical tape, either.
Did 68 have both the signal stats plug in to the fuse block? That is quite the mess you have there my friend.
No, only the hazard flasher is on the fuse box. The turn signal flasher is screwed to the back of the instrument panel fascia, between the gauge pod and the speedo pod.
Good eye, however. That's clearly not the original fuse box for a 1968, which explains all those splices.
Be careful when you install a new fuse box. If you aren't competent at using butt splice connectors and soldering make sure you get the help of a friend that is. Also, buy yourself a good pair of ratcheting crimpers.
These two links should assist in helping to address your endeavors. Hopefully you'll start fresh and upgrade that fuse box with some nice terminals & wires properly installed. Best of luck moving forward!
Be careful when you install a new fuse box. If you aren't competent at using butt splice connectors and soldering make sure you get the help of a friend that is. Also, buy yourself a good pair of ratcheting crimpers.
And, heat shrink tubing to cover your work to help eliminate shorting, wire, splice connector abrasion & exposure. You can buy heat shrink almost anywhere (local big box stores) - you don't need color coded (black is fine), but you should always heat shrink wrap your wiring.
Norm, nice link showing what the correct fuse box looks like. Note the single rectangular flasher module in the upper LH corner.
As for splicing, I'd prefer soldering and shrink tubing over crimped butt connectors. Either way you'll need to position the splices in a way that the added bulk doesn't interfere with mounting the box on the firewall. Also, there are replacement fuse terminals available from Del Mar Wire, but their website doesn't show them anymore.
Both good points, Norm & Joe. I actually prefer uninsulated connectors over the insulated ones (they're not bulky like the insulated ones). Don't forget that the jaws of ratcheting crimpers are built for either insulated or uninsulated connectors.
When you look at something such as this & decide to embark on the next adventure of performing the upgrade, consider how to address the entire gameesh you have in front of you rather than one wire at a time. IOW, you're replacing/upgrading the entire wiring (harness) assembly leading to the fuse box. Consider cutting all existing wires at or nearly at the same location when you remove the current fuse box (take a picture and absolutely have the CSM wiring schematic "on hand"). Next, work on a stable platform (table, bench, etc.) and create all the wires you need to feed into the new fuse box as one assembly - one wire at a time while you're working at the table, bench, platform, etc. If you think of having to upgrade one existing wire at a time, it will quickly become burdensome, annoying & resolute w/ frustration - create/fashion a new wire assembly on your bench, then during time of installation you're simply going to "splice" each wire into its correct position.
I was actually hoping mine was good so you could swap out the block and wiring harness as a unit. But the terminals are rusty and would need replaced. Here's what it looks like.
The fuse block for the 1968 Olds 98 appears to be Part #4008-G. I have no stake in this, other than I might happen to find some parts which may fit your needs. The glass fuse clips are really hard to find, believe me I've looked. With that said, I did find a 4008-G on e-Bay. Depending on whether you are going to work out something w/ John (2blu442) here is the only one I've found. There may be a chance you could remove those clips using a Dremmel wire brush burnish them clean.
I know some of the posts above are a little dated, ran across them searching due to the fact that "I" am in the process of repairing the fuse box on my 64 Olds F85 Deluxe.
Apparently, the corroding of these fuse boxes is somewhat of a common problem, as they age, leakage (water) or not, simply moisture in the car when sitting too long, etc.
I posted several post on another forum, informing others that I tracked down a "used", but in great shape box on eBay, it should be here in a few day, and I'm gong to simply (it won't be simply), "Cut and Spice" the new into the old.
Going to do the "1-Wire-At-A-Time" process, using the "Heat and Solder" connectors.
Tedious, time-consuming, lying under the dash job. I just want to get the Olds up and running for this Ohio Cruising Season.
Come this winter, will probably do the "Upgrade" replacement - Entire Harnes - New Box.
Just letting others know, if you are having fuse box problems, broken, rusted fuse holders, well you are not alone.
I know some of the posts above are a little dated, ran across them searching due to the fact that "I" am in the process of repairing the fuse box on my 64 Olds F85 Deluxe.
Apparently, the corroding of these fuse boxes is somewhat of a common problem, as they age, leakage (water) or not, simply moisture in the car when sitting too long, etc.
I posted several post on another forum, informing others that I tracked down a "used", but in great shape box on eBay, it should be here in a few day, and I'm gong to simply (it won't be simply), "Cut and Spice" the new into the old.
Going to do the "1-Wire-At-A-Time" process, using the "Heat and Solder" connectors.
Tedious, time-consuming, lying under the dash job. I just want to get the Olds up and running for this Ohio Cruising Season.
Come this winter, will probably do the "Upgrade" replacement - Entire Harnes - New Box.
Just letting others know, if you are having fuse box problems, broken, rusted fuse holders, well you are not alone.
If you are going to upgrade and replace your old wiring and existing fuse block this winter, just fix the few circuits you are having issues with, and enjoy the cruising season. Why screw with it twice?
Agree with the "screw with it twice", but as noted, the old box and a number of the connectors are really in need of repairing if I want any type of rear lights, dash lights and other accessories, simply to make it more "Road Worthy", and that are my plans - BUT - Here in Ohio, once he winter hits, the car will be in the garage for months, and that is the time I usually do a little, "time consuming', "not driving" work, which just may be the entire harness replacement; No Guarantees, all depends on how good the "repair" work goes, but just "Maybe". Appreciate the reply
