67 olds fuel gauge
#1
67 olds fuel gauge
Hi all I changed my fuel sender because my gauge was bouncing, when I fill the tank full it stays on full with out bouncing then when it goes to 3/4 or 7/8 of a tank it starts bouncing, I notice the gauge when I shut the car off stays up ,should the gauge go to empty when you shut it off. Any help
Thanks Steve
1967 Oldsmobile 442
Thanks Steve
1967 Oldsmobile 442
#2
The information I give you might be totally non-applicable to your situation but...
I've got a 1965 Olds Delta 88. The fuel gauge does not go down to empty with the car off, it always shows the level it is at.
The fuel gauge needle in my car bounces a little bit when i take a hard corner, or when i floor it and the front of the car comes up a bit, but this is just due to the fact that the gas is sloshing around in the tank. When the tank is full, neither of these two things happen because the fuel level is so close to the top of the tank, the sender is always at the top.
Hope this helps.
I've got a 1965 Olds Delta 88. The fuel gauge does not go down to empty with the car off, it always shows the level it is at.
The fuel gauge needle in my car bounces a little bit when i take a hard corner, or when i floor it and the front of the car comes up a bit, but this is just due to the fact that the gas is sloshing around in the tank. When the tank is full, neither of these two things happen because the fuel level is so close to the top of the tank, the sender is always at the top.
Hope this helps.
#3
First, no, the gauge should not go to E when the car is off. It can end up anywhere as the circut has no power to it when the ignition is off.
One thing it sounds like you have not yet done is verify that the gauge itself is working correctly. To do that, disconnect the wire that attaches to the sending unit (the orange one) from the wire that comes from the front of the car. There should be a place where the wire coming from the sending unit connects to the wire coming from the front of the car so you don't have to drop the tank or cut the wire to do this. You likely found this connection when you installed the new gauge. Then ground the side coming from the gauge.
Then turn the ignition ON and observe the gauge. It should immediately go to E and stay there. Then remove the wire from ground. The gauge should immediately go to F, or even well past it, and stay there.
If the gauge does these things, then it is working fine, and your problem is somehow with the sending unit itself.
But if you have not done so, as I say, you should verify that the gauge itself is working correctly.
One thing it sounds like you have not yet done is verify that the gauge itself is working correctly. To do that, disconnect the wire that attaches to the sending unit (the orange one) from the wire that comes from the front of the car. There should be a place where the wire coming from the sending unit connects to the wire coming from the front of the car so you don't have to drop the tank or cut the wire to do this. You likely found this connection when you installed the new gauge. Then ground the side coming from the gauge.
Then turn the ignition ON and observe the gauge. It should immediately go to E and stay there. Then remove the wire from ground. The gauge should immediately go to F, or even well past it, and stay there.
If the gauge does these things, then it is working fine, and your problem is somehow with the sending unit itself.
But if you have not done so, as I say, you should verify that the gauge itself is working correctly.
#5
On my 67, when I fill it all the way the gauge will go just past "F". After about 10-20 miles it will start making its way towards "E". It fluctuates about a 1/8 back and forth while driving and can go as much as a 1/4 as it gets below 1/2 tank. These gauges don't have any delay to compensate for fluid movement, so as long as mine is moving around I know I have fuel in my tank. I never let it drop below 1/4 tank.
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