66 Ignition Switch
66 Ignition Switch
1966 Cutlass.
Anyone have issues with a replacement Ignition switch? I replaced mine in 2018 (can't believe it was 7 years ago). Previous thread from back then: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...cement-130903/
Back in 2018 I bought one from Rock Auto. Last year I started having issues with the ACC line not engaging sometimes while key was in the RUN position. Tonight I pulled the IGN switch out and removed the cylinder after determining the issue was in the switch and not the cabling/connector. With the switch out of the car, I can turn the Inside with a large screwdriver. When I turn the switch to the RUN position, there is a slight amount of play in the position of the switch. I can rock the screwdriver back and forth slightly and it gives me intermittant contact between BATT and ACC pins without actually switching out of the RUN position. I've ordered another one from Rockauto. Different manufacturer thought I'm not convinced they aren't actually the same. But, this one has only been in there for maybe 8k miles. Anyway, anyone know if there is better quality out there?
Anyone have issues with a replacement Ignition switch? I replaced mine in 2018 (can't believe it was 7 years ago). Previous thread from back then: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...cement-130903/
Back in 2018 I bought one from Rock Auto. Last year I started having issues with the ACC line not engaging sometimes while key was in the RUN position. Tonight I pulled the IGN switch out and removed the cylinder after determining the issue was in the switch and not the cabling/connector. With the switch out of the car, I can turn the Inside with a large screwdriver. When I turn the switch to the RUN position, there is a slight amount of play in the position of the switch. I can rock the screwdriver back and forth slightly and it gives me intermittant contact between BATT and ACC pins without actually switching out of the RUN position. I've ordered another one from Rockauto. Different manufacturer thought I'm not convinced they aren't actually the same. But, this one has only been in there for maybe 8k miles. Anyway, anyone know if there is better quality out there?
Why not look at finding a NOS one ? And not necessarily a super expensive or even OEM (a/c Delco likely).. but maybe even just NOS from back in the 60's. I'm guessing brand, but maybe even a replacement made by the "Standard" ignition company. Obviously an OEM NOS would be the best choice - but you'll have to weigh what they are going for.
I’ve got 2 ‘66 big cars. I’ve had one since the ‘80s and the other since ‘98 or so. A long time. If you can find an NOS one, that will be the most reliable going forward. If you’re feeling flush, Oldsobsolete.com may have what you’re looking for. Or haunt EBay. If you go the Ebay route, see what other cars your switch was installed into and you may have more luck finding a good one.
The latter day replacements just aren’t built as well and don’t last as long. Last I checked mine were from Mexico, but these days, who know where they were made. GM wanted to keep warranty repairs down and keep a reputation for quality & reliablity up. 3rd party reproduction companies seem to care less about that.
I’ve looked at many (hundred or more?) old Oldsmobiles in junkyards and have repaired my own wiring harnesses since no one makes new ones for the big cars.
The key switches are high amperage circuits which generated a fair amount of heat when they were installed new. Add on a few decades of dirt, resistance, use and this fairly frequently results in melted plastic housings behind the key switch. That tells you something got real hot. Sometimes the insulation on the wires themselves melt too. If your car shows some of this kind of damage, be aware that the terminal/plastic shell system is called “Packard 56” and you can still get the keyswitch shell from AuVeCo and other vendors.
Chris
The latter day replacements just aren’t built as well and don’t last as long. Last I checked mine were from Mexico, but these days, who know where they were made. GM wanted to keep warranty repairs down and keep a reputation for quality & reliablity up. 3rd party reproduction companies seem to care less about that.
I’ve looked at many (hundred or more?) old Oldsmobiles in junkyards and have repaired my own wiring harnesses since no one makes new ones for the big cars.
The key switches are high amperage circuits which generated a fair amount of heat when they were installed new. Add on a few decades of dirt, resistance, use and this fairly frequently results in melted plastic housings behind the key switch. That tells you something got real hot. Sometimes the insulation on the wires themselves melt too. If your car shows some of this kind of damage, be aware that the terminal/plastic shell system is called “Packard 56” and you can still get the keyswitch shell from AuVeCo and other vendors.
Chris
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