66 Cutlass No Charge
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 721
From: Orion Township Michigan 30 Miles North of the Murder City
66 Cutlass No Charge
2 weeks ago while I was cruising around in my 1966 Cutlass Convertible. I noticed a sulphur like smell .Pulled the car in and noticed the battery was making a bubbling or boiling noise.Immediatley I pulled that battery out .Went up to my Auto parts store and purchased a new battery.
While I was installing the new battery I noticed a white powder (not what you think) all over the alternator bracketand air cleaner.
I removed the alternator that was only 3 months old.Had it tested and found out it had a bad diode. Installed that.
seemed to run fine for a while and things seemed to be going my way, or so I thought.
I now have charging problems.
In order I have replaced
The battery (Due to the boiling)
The alternator
The voltage regulator
Another alterator
Another voltage regulator and added a ground due to the results of bench testing
I am showing 11.5 volts at the battery
Ron
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 721
From: Orion Township Michigan 30 Miles North of the Murder City
The battery didnt have the chance of leaking out.Everything in the engine compartment is new .New engine harness.I have even replaced the horn relay with a new one.
Could that bad diode and the problems it created with the battery have a negative effect on the harness and or the Voltage regulator.
Could that bad diode and the problems it created with the battery have a negative effect on the harness and or the Voltage regulator.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 188
From: West of Lubbock, TX
Check to see if you have voltage to the "F" terminal on the alternator. If not, connect a jumper wire to that terminal from battery voltage. When that terminal is energized, the alternator should charge at full output. If the alternator works this way, and battery voltage increases to at least 13.8 volts, then your problem is elsewhere. Do not leave the jumper in place permanently, or the sulfur smell will definitely return.
If there is no voltage at the "F" terminal on the wiring harness plug, check for continuity from the connector to the corresponding connector at the voltage regulator. I suspect there is a break somewhere, since you have already replaced the parts that commonly fail.
I strongly recommend the factory Chassis Service Manual. It has excellent diagnostic guides and is easy to understand.
Good luck.
DW
If there is no voltage at the "F" terminal on the wiring harness plug, check for continuity from the connector to the corresponding connector at the voltage regulator. I suspect there is a break somewhere, since you have already replaced the parts that commonly fail.
I strongly recommend the factory Chassis Service Manual. It has excellent diagnostic guides and is easy to understand.
Good luck.
DW
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
