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1972 Cutlass Power window (front driver's side) issue
While I'm waiting on Legendary to make and ship my two bucket-seat covers, I'm working on a few things that I keep putting off due my electrical troubleshooting skills. One that really drives me nuts is the front driver's side power window is all the way up but won't move at all. It went up and down very slowly (sometimes help was needed) and I thought it would be good to spray a little WD40 on the tracks.....well it didn't make it move and actually something popped and sizzles for a second or so, and the door didn't make any noises after that for a number of years while it just sat in the garage. Recently, from time to time I could hear it trying to move briefly. I know...... don't spray WD40 like that!
Any rate, recently I've been looking at it and the motor is in a terrible spot and eventually, unless I get lucky, I'll have to take it to my mechanic. I bought an aftermarket 4 switch unit and was hoping it was something in my old switch. When I connected the new one, the three other windows work like usual but not the driver's window. Today I took Lisle low voltage circuit tester and connected the clip to a well-grounded bolt on the door, turned the ignition on and stuck the probe in all the holes for the switch and only the "C" position lit up the tester. That tells me very little. But then, I'm a guy who specializes in frying multimeters....LOL!
I'll make an attempt to help you out. Others may have far better diagrams/information. I replaced the driver's door 4-way power window switch some years ago w/ a NOS switch. I don't know what your issue is directly, I can't say exactly how or which terminals to probe, but I can provide you w/ what I believe might help you out or get you started (maybe). NOTE: These diagrams are for 1971 Oldsmobile A-Series. PW diagrams are contained in the Fisher Body Service Manual. Unfortunately, I only have a digital copy of the 1971 Fisher Body Service Manual; and, again note - this is from the 1971 Oldsmobile Fisher Body Service Manual, but it served me well to identify the wires & my issue. There are troubleshooting/diagnostic charts/diagrams included in the manual, as well.
KEY to NOTE: While the writing is somewhat difficult to read, look at the actual Color Wiring List (Wire Identification Chart) to gain some confidence. It contains a Number and a Wire Color. You can then gain some confidence as to which wire operates which window. I managed to get it all put together by referencing the Color Wiring List Number in relation to the Wire Color. I printed out a copy and wrote in my own information and finally came up with which wire went where. I know what it's like to struggle with this. Sorry I don't have better copies. Dollars-to-donuts the 1971 Fisher Body Service Manual PW diagrams are same as 1972 Fisher Body Service Manual PW diagrams. Hopefully, this may assist you in determining what's going on with your issue.
Today I took Lisle low voltage circuit tester and connected the clip to a well-grounded bolt on the door, turned the ignition on and stuck the probe in all the holes for the switch and only the "C" position lit up the tester. That tells me very little. But then, I'm a guy who specializes in frying multimeters....LOL!
OLE442
Your plug has 9 wires in it. One wire for power and 2 wires for each window motor. Over simplified, your switch transfers "power" to either the "roll-up" or "roll-down" wire for each window motor.
Since three of the windows work correctly, the power wire is working. Three sets of the window motor wires, and window motors, are also working.
The "sizzling" sound you described concerns me. It sounds like your driver side front window motor is bad.
To verify that, you will need to use your low voltage tester on every wire of that plug individually. Plug in the switch and turn on the ign. switch. Put the probe on each wire and toggle all of the switches until you see power on each wire. If you do see power on each wire, the problem is at the motor. It is probably bad because it is the most used.
Agree w/ cjs synopsis - that is why I provided the Wire Identification Chart to assist in reading the Fisher Body Service Manual. The 4-way SW is nothing more than a distribution block (switch). Center "C" they call the "feed" (e.g. power). When you move any of the 4-way switches either up or down, you energize that switch to move the window up or down. You can, in fact, hold your fingers to any combination of switches (in a working operable 4-way SW) and each window will move up or down respectively. "C" = feed (power) when IGN SW is in ON position. Match numbers to the wire colors then probe each of the switches - you will, in fact, have to mechanically "move" each SW to validate if each SW is gaining power (being energized).
Last edited by Vintage Chief; Feb 6, 2025 at 08:05 PM.
Reason: syopsis>synopsis
