matchek

Hi, all I need your help. I put down one power window yesterday. Went back 5 minutes later and now none of the 4 windows work.

Would you happen to know were the power window relay is? I don't think I can find it. There is a relay on the drivers side close to the battery, but I thought this was the horn relay. I attached the picture. I don't think that is the power window relay because the wiring-colors don't match the wiring diagram.

I need to clarify is I checked the fuse - okay. I put a new one in anyway. Also checked the output of the pink wire that connects to the fuse box for Electric Windows and I did not get power there with the key in the ON position. Power to and from circuit breaker is okay.

MDchanic

You didn't attach a picture.

You need to look in the Fisher Body Manual for the full power window schematic, and then follow it down.

If I recall, the '68 fullsize power window relay is WAAAY up in the left kickpanel area, up under the dash.
If you contort yourself like a pretzel, you should have no problem finding it.

- Eric

matchek

Sorry about that, I think I attached it. Is that the horn relay or the power window relay? This is attached to the driver's side front near the battery.

I have the wiring diagram, but I was not able to follow it.

Also, the "kick panel", is that the panel to the left of your left foot? I had trouble moving that because the parking brake is in the way.

By the way, the Chassis describes it as the power window relay is "in the left shroud area". Don't know where that is. I also thought of the shroud of the plastic piece where the fan spins.

Thank you so much, for some reason I can't follow where to find it.

matchek

After looking at the service manual, I am 99% that picture is the horn relay and the wiring colors match for the most part.

I will see if I can contort myself to find the power window relay.

MDchanic

It's the horn relay.


Yes.


You don't have to move it - the relay is above it.


It's the kick panel area.


Please elaborate.

Here is the power window schematic, from page 16-5 of the FBM:




Power window electrical troubleshooting instructions begin on page 16-3 of the FBM, but the schematic shows you all you need to know.

- Eric

matchek

Thanks MD for the wiring diagram. Appreciate it.

My hat goes off to you if you were able to find yours. Just can't do. I can't even find pink, red/white, and orange/black wires.

According to Fusick, it looks like it has a mounting screw where has connector where 3 wires plug into. Would you happen to know where it is mounted?

matchek

I was able to find one thing that I believe it is the "power window connector" according to the drawings. That had one plug with only two wires. That read around 2 Volts with the key on. I don't think that the power window relay though.

I wonder if it is to the left of the parking brake closer to the floor behind the interior plastic cover (where I can see) or in the engine compartment.

matchek

I might be on to something. What is this thing attached to the firewall next to the voltage regulator? I noticed that the connector to it on the left is shot.

If it is not the power the window relay , then something else does not work anymore. Would Autozone have that connector? It just deteriorated off.

matchek

Hi , I took it out . Is this the power window relay? Looks like I want to replace this anyway and the two female connectors that connect to it. Not sure what it is though.

MDchanic

No. That's the High-speed blower relay.

The PW relay is up in the Left kickpanel area. I wish I could remember exactly where, but it was a few years ago...

I didn't find it because it was broken, by the way, I found it completely by accident.

- Eric

matchek

Thanks Eric. I was excited for a moment. I can't get behind the drivers kick panel because the parking brake is blocking it. It was hard enough to bend it a little back by pulling it over the high beam switch.

Also for clarification, I looked as best as I could above the drivers kick panel, about the round white light not too far from the fuse box and don't see anything. I am almost positive it would be mounted against the wall.

I may need to figure out how to get past the kick panel.

matchek

perhaps I can remove the kick panel and not mess with the parking brake.

matchek

Eric, you were right, the power window relay is behind the kick plate - found the screws.

With the key off, this is what I get out of the relay:
Pink: dancing around 0
orange/black: 1.8V
Red/White: dancing around 0

With the key on, this is what I get out of the relay:
Pink: dancing around 1.8V
orange/black: 2.0V
Red/White: dancing around 0

Red/white is the feed to the window - so it is safe to say it is the relay?

I see generic relays on autozone for $15, versus Fusicks is around $50. Does it matter ?

Also I need the female connector to the high speed relay - that is shot . Should I just bring the high speeds relay to autozone to find a match or do i need to order a special Olds one?

Thank you Eric so much! What I place to put the relay and what a pain. It is 95F outside and 3 out of the 4 windows are stuck up so I can't use the car.

matchek

I am also trying to find the female plugs that connect to the blow relay - anybody know how to order those? Can't find.

Seems like that blower relay is a dime a dozen - tons of them on ebay.

But not so much for the power window relay. I did see some on ebay for a 68 Caddy or Corvette that may looks similar. Fusicks does not have the 68 Olds Power Windor relay in the flyer.

Lady72nRob71

No voltage to pink wire = relay off, windows no workie. Pink is the relay coil supply wire and gets its power from the fusebox.
If you unplug the pink wire from the fusebox and measure the terminal that it connects to (in the fusebox), what do you get with key on? Should be 12V.
If it is 12V, how does the connector look? Corroded? Bent? Loose?
If not 12V, then there is another problem, either a fuse or link that feeds that terminal. Short 12V (from anywhere temporarily) to the pink and see if your windows work (listen for the click from the relay). If they work, then the window relay is good and something in the fusebox is bad. Is there another switched 12V terminal in your fusebox?

Check Rockauto - they have the 3-wire ones. They call it 'blower motor connector'. I got several from them and they fit fine on a variety of GM relays of that era.

matchek

PROBLEM SOLVED - thanks Lady 72! You got me thinking about that pink wire plug in the fuse box. It was always connected, but not snug, like when you try to charge an old cell phone.

I checked the voltage at the fuse box terminal were the pink goes as suggested - it was 11.7V. Okay. Then I thought to myself, how about if turn key ON, press power window switch on, and then wiggle the pink fuse box plug back and forth to ensure connection. Lo and behold - bingo - windows going up and down. That pink wire plug that goes to the fuse box needs to be replaced - does not have any snuggness anymore. Thanks for getting me thinking. It is so hot and sucks to not be able to put windows down!!!

By the way, speaking of the relay, if the pink comes from the ignition coil and is hot and powers the windows, what does the orange/black wire do that comes from the circuit breaker? I understand that the circuit breaker will break circuit after a certain number of amps, but what confuses is me is that the circuit breaker, although this thought is not shown in the drawings, appears to connect to the battery in the engine compartment. I thought that powered the windows, not the pink fusebox wire. Why does the circuit breaker connect to the battery then?

I tried Rock Auto - I will try again then.

Thanks!

Lady72nRob71

Great - glad you found the problem!
As soon as you said pink was not 12V I knew what it was.
Release the metal terminal from the plastic and use some pliers to crimp it down the metal edges just a tad. The springy part might need some bend-back also. Clean it with a small wire brush if you can. Pop it back in and you should be set. No need to replace anything.
Of course this sounds a lot harder than it is. See pictures here at Rob's Skule of Terminal Repair!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tml#post312739

The pink wire is only powered when key is in IGN position; it is not from the ignition coil at the engine.
The whole idea of the relay is to not have high current from the window motors running through the ignition switch, but still retaining security by having the windows active only with the key on.
The pink gets energized from the ignition switch when you turn the key. This allows the low current coil of the relay to energize, closing the contacts of the relay, connecting the battery to the window switches and motors.
The high current goes from the battery through the relay (which easily handles the high current) to the motors.
The pink wire has only low current passing on it.

I know what hot is - it is that way here in TX now, + high humidity!

MDchanic

Not necessarily. You may be able to just push the metal connector forward out of its case and give each side a little squeeze with a pair of pliers to tighten its grip on the spade lug.

Also, note that on all of these connectors, if they need to be replaced, you can replace them with any generic ¼-inch spade females.
They won't be as fancy as the original Packard 56 connectors, but they will work fine.



Well, looks like Rob answered your questions while I was typing, so I'll just leave it with him...



- Eric

matchek

Thanks Eric and 72! All questions are answered. Y'all are impressive. Olds engineers would be proud of you. I learned a lot here too and in the process found out about my blower switch, which I only use when it's raining so did not know about it.

Interesting thing about the manual is only the Olds and Caddies had the power window relay in 68. Was Chevy second class?

MDchanic

They were, but that's not what that schematic shows.

It shows the fuse box wire coming from the other side of the power window harness plug on Chebbies, because that plug is in a different place in the harness in those cars.
They still had the relay.

- Eric