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1965 (66?) 88, 98 series (all big cars) Horn relay replacement solution!
This thread is for those of you that own a 1965 big car (88, 98 series, Starfire, w/e). The original horn relay for those cars is not reproduced and is a junction block/horn relay combo that looks like this:
65cutlass.jpg
Do not waste time having auto parts guys try to look up interchange for you, because there is none that accomplishes both the function of junction block AND horn relay in one part. You will need to improvise.
You can eliminate the junction block stud on your wiring harness and just mount a standalone one to your inner fender like so:
You can just buy this part (Duralast 16127) and run a hot wire from the non side-by-side spade terminal to the junction post:
Your OEM harness connector will connect right to the newer style relay without any modification and work perfectly (I have tested it on my car). This part costs 6.49 in comparison to NOS horn relays which I have seen go for over $100. The only added cost is getting the junction post.
Hmmm , was looking in some boxes and find a couple of hornrelays (?) from newer cars ,
Nr 344813 and 25523703. The relays connection looks similar to the relays above but i
don´t know if they will fit my -65.
The original relay has a "tab" on the connection spade that goes to the green wire in the
oem connection.
Unless I'm missing something, just get one of these. My '66 Toronado uses the same one that is pictured in the first post. The replacement one from Fusick bolted right in and worked perfect for me. It doesn't look exactly right but it does the job.
Thanks for tip , have seen this relay here for $ 180 but not in stock. My relay in my 88 works so
i should try this in the 98 to se what happens and on the contrary.
Tested the relay from my 88 in my 98 and now
the horn works fine with the steering wheel buttons.
Should keep this relay in the 98 when we use this car a lot more
Here is how the faulty relay looks inside :
I used relay 344813 and this worked fine , the
tabs on relay fits the oem female connector.
And then a wire to the + stud. Well , it dont looks
like original but works , and it can be back to original again .