Looking for input on steering box upgrades from anyone who has done it on a rear steer 88. Trying to get a feel for what my options are. My steering box has a leaky seal, pump is a little noisy and I would like to investigate upgrade possibilities before making any repairs.
Thanks in advance
Pete

 

I put a quick ratio box from a Monte Carlo SS into my 67 Delta. As with my 69 Cutlass wagon, it feels a little twitchy for the first week or so until you get used to it. The rear steer is irrelevant, it's the same Saginaw box. Obviously you need to install the pitman arm in the correct orientation.

 

I went with quick ratio rebuild from Lee Manufacturing quite a few years back. As I recall the business was sold and operates under a new name in SoCal, but still does the work.

Great fix. Much better than big-dead-zone 60’s boxes. I believe my cars are 2.5 turns lock to lock.

Chris

 

Great info. Thanks. So the pitman doesnt have a master spline i take it? Just reuse and re-clock the original?
Thanks
Pete

 

I would look into this as an option if i could find one a little closer. I would imagine it would be cost prohibitive to ship something that heavy from New York state to Cali and back.
Pete

 

I put a '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box in my '63 Dynamic 88.
Everything bolted into place; the only exception were the hydraulic hoses which needed adapter fittings.
I haven't fully assembled the car, so I can't tell you how it drives yet.

 

I used a Lares 974 in my 69 Cutlass. The prices seem to have shot up in the last year, unfortunately.

 

I didn't have to change my pitman arm after installing the redone boxes. Alignment sure, but no new pitman arm.

For what it's worth, as I recall Lee also changed the pressure in the output line of the power steering pump to give the car a bit better road feel.

Chris

 

Their pumps are rated at 1450psi and 2.5-2.75 gpm. Their 14:1 ratio firm-feel box uses a 30# valve. I have the 30# valve box in my ragtop and it's perfect for street use (just about 3 turns L to L). I didn't have to realign the car after installing it - perfectly centers and tracks straight as before the swap.

 

The effort required to operate the box is a function of two things, the output pressure of the pump and the size of the torsion bar on the input shaft of the box. The torsion bar twists as you turn the wheel. The thinner and softer the torsion bar, the more it deflects under steering load, which increases the pressure out of the control valve in the box. A stiffer torsion bar results in higher steering force. This is unrelated to the ratio or number of turns lock-to-lock. This gives you an idea of the range of torsion bar sizes.

 

thanks for all the great info
Pete