OK the Facts:
1964 Dynamic 88 four door.
The driver side front directional ( I will call a blinker i'm originally from Boston) is haunted!!
When I engage the blinker handle to make a left turn the rear light blinks correctly and at normal speed and brightness. The front light does not come on. I have replaced the bulb and cleaned the socket.
The light comes on when you turn on the headlights but will not blink when you engage handle.
The dash green indicator light will not come on unless engine is running. If you turn on key but not engine the green light will not flash when handle is engaged.
Right turn indicator light turns on as it should engine on or not.
I replaced rear light bulbs, and fuses ( I had extra so why not eliminate a few things)
I have had individuals engage blinker arm while I made sure bulb was seated correctly.
The bulb is not snug but the bulb lights when headlight switch is engaged.
FYI. the dash indicator light NEVER comes on when just on battery but does come on when driving 98% of the time.
The front blinker does blink when engine is running ONLY when dash indicator light engages.
OK, now that all of you could use a drink any thoughts

 

Have you checked your dashboard wiring?

Do the brake lights work normally?

I would consider the possibility of the Left hand front signal wire (pale Blue) shorting with the GEN light wire (Brown) or the OIL light wire (Orange).

If the brake lights don't work normally, pull the BRAKE fuse and see whether anything changes.

You should check voltages at all important points through the system and see whether there are any spots where things don't make sense.

This is an interesting one, at least to me.

- Eric

 

Faulty grounds lead to such problems.

Verify that the engine to body ground wire is secure.

Verify that any point that should be grounded does in fact have ~zero volts from it to the battery (-) post. Each bulb socket, while the bulb is or should be lit, for example. I had a 71 Challenger turn signal not working. The lamp had been "refurbished" but there was rust between bulb holder and the lamp body, so the volts never made it from the bulb holder to the lamp body. Therefore the bulb holder, which should have been a ground, therefore at 0 volts, was at 12V. A test light wired to battery (-) found 12V at each filament wire- good- then I put a bulb in and there was 12V on the bulb holder... bad... this should be a ground point. 12V at lamp body? Nope. Resistance from bulb holder to lamp body- infinite- should be about 0 ohms. Solution, short of destroying the crimped in bulb holder- used a pointy tool to enhance the bulb holder to lamp body connection.

Here is the same car's electric choke wire being tested with a light which is connected to 12V. Touching the choke's black Gnd wire, the light should illuminate, but it does not. The carb's pretty clear coating prevents a ground path even though bolted to the engine.

Never assume secured together = has a ground path. Test and Verify.

In this case, I ran a redundant earth wire from choke/ carb to intake- issue solved, chokes works right. Very basic electrical testing. Where do we have volts, where do we NOT have volts? What volts should we have here? Generally speaking, a bulb holder's outer shell should always be at 0 volts or ground. Therefore a 12V test lite connected to 12V then touched to the culb holder should illuminate nicely. A test light connected to battery (-) and touched to the bulb holder should pass NO electricity and not glow even the slightest. This test is to be done when the bulb holder under inspection has an illuminated bulb- is passing elecricity- or should [is on].





12V test light SHOULD be lit up when touched to ground point. Faulty ground = no ground path = dark test light.

 

I'm pulling the old duct work under the dash and replacing with new tomorrow so a good chance to follow all the wires and check for ground. Should not take long. Greatly appreciate the info..learning a lot

 

The ground problem is usually at the bulb or socket. The 1157 bulbs have TWO filaments with a common ground point. If the ground in the socket is bad, the turn signal circuit grounds through the park light circuit, which leads to all kinds of confusing things happening, as symptoms change depending of if the park lights are on or not. Also be aware that on a 1964 model, the front park lights do not come on with the headlights, only with the switch in the park light position.

 

I replaced the socket and replaced a section of wiring leading to socket. The wires leading to
the socket are exposed to the elements ,they were brittle.
Went ahead and did the other side since the socket and wire were in same condition as the one I had a problem with.
Thanks for the help guys.