Tried to find a chiltons manual for my 1954 Olds Super 88, 2 dr. I need to get some specifics out of it, or hope for some help here. I've got a tapping coming from one of the valves so need to know how tight they should be. Also spark plug size for gap.
Oh and if anyone has the fram # for the oil canister that would save me having to dig for it before.

If anyone cares, I had posted about a tranny leak a few months back, it ended up being the front seal that went bad. What a pain in the *** that was.

 

I like Chilton's manuals for my daily driver, but I doubt Chilton's makes a manual for your car. You will have to get a factory service manual from Evil-bay, or one of the Olds suppliers like Fusicks.

 

And for now hope somebody replies with a few answers from my questions! Want to bang those out this weekend!

 

Well, I do know there isn't any valve lash adjustment on your car. Oldsmobiles have non-adjustable valve trains. The lash is set by adjusting the standing stem height of the valves when machining is done to the valve seats.

You can check your valve train for worn rocker arm tips and bent pushrods. I found a scrap car with a 394 and took all of the rocker arms off of it. I had to mix and match rocker arms when I redid my heads because some of the rocker arms were worn and some weren't.

 

I havent taken the covers off yet b/c I'd like to get the right gaskets for them 1st.

 

Check out Fusicks or Kanter. They will have gaskets and seals you need.

 

Get a 1954 factory Chassis Service Manual if you intend to do much besides routine maintenance on this car. You can probably pick up a serviceable used one for $20 or less and it's worth every penny. It includes service procedures and specs for everything on the car, whereas even Chilton or Motor Professional Trades Editions don't.

A Fram filter is part of the reason you have noisy valves and lifters. Get a WIX or Purolator element and start using a quart of Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil at oil changes. Olds64's comment about the rocker arms and shafts is valid; the early Rocket engines tend to develop valvetrain noise and blowby as they get miles on them.

 

the guy I bought this one from has the fram number written on the outside of the canister, so was just going to stick with it, but will try and size of the purolator, unless somebody has the #

 

http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/p...1D38EC617D04EC
http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/p...1D38EC617D04EC
or
http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/p...1D38EC617D04EC

I've been happy with the reprints, but have my doubts about the CD (scanned) versions.

AC #46, gapped at .030".

Edit: AC #PF122 has been discontinued.

Crossovers are Wix #51121 and Purolator #L40124.

Norm

 

Fel-Pro #VS4569.

Should be available at your local auto supply store.

Norm

 

Thanks Norm! Appreciate the tips!

 

What weight oil are you running?

 

Now: 20W 50 in my 283, 307, 330, 350, 454, and 455. In the Past: 30W in my 215s, 303, 324s, 394s, 425 and 455s.

More important, the oil/filters get changed every 2500, or 1 year, which ever comes first.

Norm

 

Mine's a 324. K got my checklist for Napa now!

 

Hey, pulled the valve covers this weekend for some routine tune up, and found a lot of pieces floating around, pulled the rocker set off and have 2 broken push rods. Besides finding these (or are there adjustable rocker arms available), how do you adjust the valves?

 

You don't. Unlike solids, adjustment is maintained by the hydraulic lifters.

Solid lifters require periodic adjustment, but from '49 on (except '49-'50 sixes and '57-'58 J-2) all Olds engines used hydraulic lifters and non adjustable valvetrain.

Added: Melling makes the pushrods, P/N MPR-91. Your machinist can get them for you.

Norm