Well been searching and I havent found the info i need..

So here goes.. how the hell do you replace these things.. i look under the car and see a big cross member so I dont think i can jack the engine up..

so any info would be great..

 

There is one bolt on the bottom of the motor mount that bolts the mount to the cross member. You can get to the nut from openings on the bottom of the cross member.

 

get a new momo in your hands [left is not equal to right] and it will be obvious.

Pic at RockAuto.com maybe?



Evidently per RockAuto.com, there is no such thing as a '68 98
I guess the own I owned did not exist.

 

not what i ment but thank you.. I ment how do i lift the engine? I dont see a way to jack it up.. do i have to lift the engine? and yea i got mine from rock auto..

 

Step one- remove your distributor. (follow steps to mark the location of the housing and rotor position so you can put it back w/o having to refind TDC)

Get an engine hoist- And attach it to the front couple intake manifold bolts, or front head accessory bolt holes if open.. Unbolt the motormounts from the frame, then jack up the engine as high as the transmission will allow (the tranny will only go up so far until it hits the top of the trans tunnel.

Then use a wrench to take out the two bolts holding the motor mounts to the block.
Its a bear to access those two bolts- but it can be done with it still in the car in this manner. I did it on my old 68 Delmont years back.

a variety of wrenches: stubby, long, offset, racheting, etc etc will be useful for this task.

 

OK, I'll admit that I've never done motor mounts in a 1965-70 full size, but this really seems excessive. I've never had to remove the distributor and you can easily jack the motor by using a floor jack and block of wood under the oil pan sump. Just be sure that the block of wood is large enough to press near the sides of the pan, not just under the middle of the sump. Also, you may want to counterbore a hole to clear the drain plug to avoid putting too much load right there. Loosen the mount on one side, raise the motor, replace, repeat. Do not tighten the motor mount (momo??? really? ) bolts until the motor is lowered back into place.

 

Oh, I should also mention that the correct replacement mounts are Anchor P/N 2262 and 2263, and as Chris noted, they are different RH/LH.

 

The idea is that if you jack up the engine as much as possible (to be able to reach those bolts that holt the mount to the block) you could crunch the distributor against the firewall. I suppose you could just leave take the cap off and keep an eye on it to majke sure it doesn't get too close...

Then again, maybe in a B-body there is more room between the block & the firewall than i remember.

 

I understand the rationale. I've just never had to do it in a A-body, so I'd be very surprised it you needed to do it in a full size.

 

thanks guys.. ive done mounts in other cars but this one made me stop and think for a moment.. any other info to make this job easier would be great..

one question tho.. the engine (455) its not to heavy to do the wood and oil sump way?

 

The 455 only weighs about 50 lbs more than a 350. I've done it this way many times with a BBO.

 

If your car has a radiator shroud take it loose so fan blade does not damage the shroud when you jack up the engine. You should only have to jack it a couple of inches though, just enough for the stud on the bottom of the mount to clear the frame.

 

I've done this a number of times on 68 and 69 88s per Joe's and Oldsmaniac's guidance. Loosen the motor mounts to the block so that they will have some freedom to move when the engine comes up, take the chassis side nut off, loosen the fan shroud connection points, and jack the motor up with a block of wood under the oil pan sump. The mounts will have some freedom to move so the motor mount stud on the bottom will come out of the chassis. Assemble in reverse, tightening the mount down to the engine after the new mounts are reseated in the chassis. It's a tedious knuckle skinning, hand crushing, boxed end wrenching, slow go job as I recall. I have not removed the distributor while doing this.

 

I don't think you could get the distributor to hit the firewall if you tried. It's literally about 6" away on these cars.