frozen heat riser control valve 394 V8

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Old Jan 13, 2024 | 01:52 PM
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frozen heat riser control valve 394 V8

My 1964 Dynamic 88 has a frozen heat riser control valve on the driver side exhaust manifold (of course it's on the driver side manifold since that's where they all are!). Any idea how to free it up? Anyone had to do this? I just finished for the day so I haven't even attempted it, figured I'd toss it out there
Old Jan 13, 2024 | 03:08 PM
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The valve was frozen on the 394 in my 64 98 many years ago. I knocked the valve off of the pivot shaft and left the shaft in the exhaust manifold. It worked fine, probably not an ideal fix though.
Old Jan 13, 2024 | 03:40 PM
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Is the manifold on or off the car?
Old Jan 13, 2024 | 03:56 PM
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Perhaps try soaking it in Evaporust or something like PB Blaster ?
Old Jan 13, 2024 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Sugar Bear
Is the manifold on or off the car?
It's off the car. I considered soaking it in "blaster" as has been suggested, or a torch. I can buy NOS from ebay for less than $200

I'll probably try a good soak- that usually makes me feel better
Old Jan 13, 2024 | 05:25 PM
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Warm the area, then put penetrating oil on it and tap/strike the joint. The penetrant will get wicked into the joint as it cools, striking it will cause vibration...rinse and repeat. These can be very difficult to get moving again.

You could also try putting it in an electrolysis bath.
Old Jan 13, 2024 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Olds64
The valve was frozen on the 394 in my 64 98 many years ago. I knocked the valve off of the pivot shaft and left the shaft in the exhaust manifold. It worked fine, probably not an ideal fix though.
This idea might work if the vehicle is not operated in weather below 50 degrees. Such as a summer only hobby car.
Old Jan 13, 2024 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Charlie Jones
This idea might work if the vehicle is not operated in weather below 50 degrees. Such as a summer only hobby car.
As long as I remember, myself and most everyone else I've known basically welded them open or removed them and filled the holes. It will not cause any issues in the operation of the engine in any temp. It's common for them to get stuck in both the open and closed position.
Old Jan 14, 2024 | 07:10 AM
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What Eric said. Remove it and weld the shaft holes closed.
Old Jan 14, 2024 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
As long as I remember, myself and most everyone else I've known basically welded them open or removed them and filled the holes. It will not cause any issues in the operation of the engine in any temp. It's common for them to get stuck in both the open and closed position.
It was stuck mostly closed. Using Sugar Bear's suggestion I got it open. I can move it with a hammer by striking it, but no way it's going to work as designed. It's open now, and I'm going to leave it like that.


Old Jan 14, 2024 | 01:28 PM
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If it is regularly juiced with penetrating oil when the engine is warm and allowed to cool it may start to work again. Take note of the current external weight position and check it occasionally to confirm that it hasn't begun to move and stick closed.
Old Jan 14, 2024 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by davek1661
It was stuck mostly closed. Using Sugar Bear's suggestion I got it open. I can move it with a hammer by striking it, but no way it's going to work as designed. It's open now, and I'm going to leave it like that.

Wire it open and leave it.
Old Jan 14, 2024 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Wire it open and leave it.
I'll just leave the spring loose. It's stuck where I want it. I'm okay with that.

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions, everyone. I really appreciate the feedback.
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