Car wont start, think it's a timing issue...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 30th, 2015, 02:34 PM
  #1  
Rookie
Thread Starter
 
1lowdelta88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: York
Posts: 62
Car wont start, think it's a timing issue...

I own a 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 with a 455 engine.

To make a long story short, my car does not have the little tab with the timing marks on the front of the engine block. My friend pulled the factory distributor out before I could get the #1 piston at TDC and make marks as to where the rotor button inside the distributor was facing.

So I'm stuck now, trying to get this car back on time, with little to nothing to go off of. I need some major help so I have a few questions.

20150530_162851.jpg
Does anything else plug into the distributor here? I should've taken pictures when I removed the engine

20150530_162826.jpg
Is this the correct order? on the dist. and the cylinders??

My last question is this, if I remove spark plug #1 and stick a long screw driver down in the cylinder wall, and turn the crankshaft bolt until that piston is as high as it can go, that's TDC right? Should the rotor button be facing the #1 terminal on the distributor??

Any help appreciated. These are pictures of my actual engine, if there's any more I should take that will help me figure this out I will gladly do it.
1lowdelta88 is offline  
Old May 30th, 2015, 02:59 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
Oldsragger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Norway
Posts: 566
Maybe this pic will help a little, the pink ignition wire should be on the right on the disturbutor. The left i think its for tachometer,, i Just set the piston #1 on top and have the rotor pointed to cyl #1. And install the wires after.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
DSC_1160.jpg (81.1 KB, 27 views)

Last edited by Oldsragger; May 30th, 2015 at 03:02 PM.
Oldsragger is offline  
Old May 30th, 2015, 03:45 PM
  #3  
Registered User
 
Octania's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Originally Posted by 1lowdelta88

My last question is this, if I remove spark plug #1 and stick a long screw driver down in the cylinder wall, and turn the crankshaft bolt until that piston is as high as it can go, that's TDC right? Should the rotor button be facing the #1 terminal on the distributor??
That would be TDC at the top end of either the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. Feel for compression or observe valve action to determine which.

The timing marks make a good way to get to pretty much exact TDC also.

The rotor will now point at #1 wire if your TDC is the end of #1's compression stroke...

or at wire #6 if your TDC is at the end of #1's exhaust stroke and therefore the end of #6's compression stroke.

1843
6572

#1 and #6 cylinders are doing the same thing but one turn apart. When one is coming up compressing, the other is coming up exhausting. Same with the other pairs- 8/5, 4/7, 3/2...

Be sure to see if you are getting a spark at the end of the plug wires. W/o the BATT wire hooked to the HEI, it has no power and cannot make spark.

Last edited by Octania; May 30th, 2015 at 03:47 PM.
Octania is offline  
Old May 30th, 2015, 03:58 PM
  #4  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,806
Your missing power to the distributor. Pull the number 1 spark plug and place your finger over the hole as you bump the engine around, when you feel a pop of air come out of the hole stop bumping and install the distributor with the rotor pointing to the #1 wire position on the cap.





oldcutlass is offline  
Old May 31st, 2015, 05:32 AM
  #5  
Rookie
Thread Starter
 
1lowdelta88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: York
Posts: 62
Thank-you guys so much for the help, I can't wait to get in the garage today and tear into it again. I think my main problem is the ignition wire going to the dist. I never had it hooked up. Even if my timing was off some, it should stil try to start with starter fluid correct? Well I got nothing, even with starter fluid...
1lowdelta88 is offline  
Old May 31st, 2015, 05:48 AM
  #6  
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
MDchanic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Why did you change your old HEI distributor to a new HEI distributor in the first place?

And why would you change your distributor before buying a timing tab, when by definition changing your distributor will require re-setting your timing?

Please note that you will not be able to find TDC using a screwdriver in the spark plug hole.
If you are extremely careful, and have a very sensitive finger, you may be able to get within 10°, but 20° is more realistic, and is obviously not close enough to properly time your engine.
To find TDC accurately, you will need to use a dial indicator or a stop-bolt TDC-finder, or, even better, replace your timing tab.

- Eric
MDchanic is offline  
Old May 31st, 2015, 05:59 AM
  #7  
Rookie
Thread Starter
 
1lowdelta88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: York
Posts: 62
My olds distributor was fine, I just swapped it out with this clean new one to improve the looks of the engine

My original plan was to make a mark where the rotor was facing on the distributor, before it was removed. But without me knowing a friend of mine just pulled it off and by then it was too late.

I wish the car came with a timing tab, it would make things so much easier!
1lowdelta88 is offline  
Old May 31st, 2015, 01:08 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
Octania's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Originally Posted by 1lowdelta88
My olds distributor was fine, I just swapped it out with this clean new one to improve the looks of the engine

My original plan was to make a mark where the rotor was facing on the distributor, before it was removed. But without me knowing a friend of mine just pulled it off and by then it was too late.

I wish the car came with a timing tab, it would make things so much easier!
so, new and clean and pretty but does not make spark.
OK... NOT BETTER

Is there a rotor in place?
GET SPARK to the end of a spark plug wire before trying anything else. Timing and fuel [Start Ya Bastid spray] cannot help if there is no spark at the right time and place.

think of your unmarked dist'r as the opportunity to learn how to install it and time it, folks a lot slower than you have done it, and you can too.

Would you like a timing tab? I have a few extras, or the interwebs has them available.

Unfortunately, these bubes appear to be your only easy to find reproduction choice

http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-74-OLDSMO...0f8b5b&vxp=mtr
Octania is offline  
Old May 31st, 2015, 01:27 PM
  #9  
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
MDchanic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Originally Posted by 1lowdelta88
My olds distributor was fine, I just swapped it out with this clean new one to improve the looks of the engine
+1 point for looks.
-1,000 points for operation.

This is why a wise man once advised, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."



Originally Posted by 1lowdelta88
My original plan was to make a mark where the rotor was facing on the distributor, before it was removed.
Which would not have worked.

True, your engine would have run, and this is what any of us would have done as a first step to get it running after removing the distributor, but the next step is to set the timing, which you clearly did not have fully planned out.

You do have a timing light, right?

If not, you need to get a timing light ($5 at yard sales and flea markets across the land) and a timing tab (from Chris, in the post above this one), and then you will be able to enjoy your car.

- Eric
MDchanic is offline  
Old June 4th, 2015, 10:22 AM
  #10  
Rookie
Thread Starter
 
1lowdelta88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: York
Posts: 62
Originally Posted by Octania
Would you like a timing tab? I have a few extras, or the interwebs has them available.

Unfortunately, these bubes appear to be your only easy to find reproduction choice

http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-74-OLDSMO...0f8b5b&vxp=mtr
I would most definitely like a timing tab! I'll PM you

Originally Posted by MDchanic
+1 point for looks.
-1,000 points for operation.

This is why a wise man once advised, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
I get what you're saying, but clearly you're a "purist" which is ok! But I'm not...

When the rest of your car looks like this...

10658799_10203000968813409_7872075895456731585_o.jpg

10380523_10203000969133417_1419507386375312678_o.jpg


Your engine bay can't look like this

CAM00196.jpg




Originally Posted by MDchanic
Which would not have worked.

True, your engine would have run, and this is what any of us would have done as a first step to get it running after removing the distributor, but the next step is to set the timing, which you clearly did not have fully planned out.
Can you explain this a little more please? So what you're saying is, if the engine was on time before and running fine, and I pull the distributor cap off and make a mark as to where the rotor is facing, and put my new distributor on with the rotor facing in the exact same position, it wont be on time?

Originally Posted by MDchanic
You do have a timing light, right?

If not, you need to get a timing light ($5 at yard sales and flea markets across the land) and a timing tab (from Chris, in the post above this one), and then you will be able to enjoy your car.

- Eric
No I do not have a timing light, the one I always used no longer works so I will need to purchase a new one.

The car is running now, maybe not exactly as it should be, but it's running. The reason it didn't start before was because of the 1 wire going into the distributor to give it power, I was rushing and just overlooked it.

I want to say thank-you to "Oldsragger" for the pic! That's what made me go back and look things over. And to "Oldscutlass" for the pics and the advice
1lowdelta88 is offline  
Old June 4th, 2015, 10:29 AM
  #11  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,806
Now all you need is a timing tab and an operational timing light to get it right. nice car btw.
oldcutlass is offline  
Old June 4th, 2015, 10:34 AM
  #12  
Rookie
Thread Starter
 
1lowdelta88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: York
Posts: 62
Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Now all you need is a timing tab and an operational timing light to get it right. nice car btw.
I'm going to look into getting a timing tab right now. Has anyone ever installed one? are they difficult?

And thank-you for the compliment on my car. I know it's not your typical delta 88, but that's why I like it, and put so much work into it! It's definitely a head turner
1lowdelta88 is offline  
Old June 4th, 2015, 11:23 AM
  #13  
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
MDchanic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Originally Posted by 1lowdelta88
So what you're saying is, if the engine was on time before and running fine, and I pull the distributor cap off and make a mark as to where the rotor is facing, and put my new distributor on with the rotor facing in the exact same position, it wont be on time?
If you made the rotor and the distributor body both face in exactly the same direction, and the hall effect sensor and reluctors of both distributors were aligned with each other and with their bases exactly the same way, then sure, no problem, your timing would be exactly the same.

The only problem is that that's impossible.

Even if you had marked the distributor base where it comes up against the manifold, and lined it up perfectly, and done the same for the rotor, you would still need to account for manufacturing tolerances within each distributor, which would cause the spark to be triggered at slightly different rotational angles.

In your case, you haven't even mentioned marking the position of the distributor body and setting that to its original position, so I suspect you didn't do that, so there is about a 1 in 45 chance that your timing will be set right (ASSuming a timing tolerance of about 1° and a "looks about right" range of about 45° for the distributor position).

So, once you get the distributor into roughly the correct position, you need to put a timing light on it and set your timing to wherever it needs to be so that your engine runs properly (which, in your year, is usually at least 5° advanced, when compared to the specification).

... Oh, and the timing tab is not hard to install: just remove the bolt, place the tab over the stud, and replace the bolt.

- Eric
MDchanic is offline  
Old June 4th, 2015, 11:29 AM
  #14  
Rookie
Thread Starter
 
1lowdelta88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: York
Posts: 62
Very informative! Thank-you so much
1lowdelta88 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cut123
Big Blocks
9
July 28th, 2014 04:18 PM
scooter123
Big Blocks
4
April 4th, 2013 08:29 PM
oldsmoboogie
Racing and High Performance
4
September 22nd, 2012 10:27 AM
nj_cutlass72
Other
27
September 4th, 2012 08:39 PM
tnelson
Electrical
8
September 10th, 2010 05:42 AM



Quick Reply: Car wont start, think it's a timing issue...



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:50 AM.