OK am at my wits end....


Car is a 67 Delta 88/425/AT with AC and CCC


Trying to sort the vacuum lines and have three questions...


1. What/where is the "bleed valve" referred to here...





2. Where does the middle line of the thermo switch attach?





3. Where does the vac line from the CCC airbox connect?


Thanks guys!

 

Maybe an easier way for me to solve this...


Does anyone have a car still running an original CCC system? If so, a picture of the vacuum lines would greatly assist in trouble shooting this!

 

Well, according to the CSM page you posted, that bleed valve is on a 400 motor, not your 425

Ported vacuum. The purpose of the thermo switch is to prevent the engine from overheating. Ported vacuum to the distributor vacuum advance can cause the engine to overheat when idling on a hot day. The thermo switch will switch the vac advance from a ported vacuum source to a straight manifold vacuum source if the coolant temperature gets to be excessive.

Usually the air cleaner flappers use straight manifold vacuum. There should be a thermal switch in the air cleaner housing that switches the vacuum off and on depending on temperature, to open or close the flapper in the air cleaner housing. I suspect this is what the "bleed valve" is.

 

Hi Joe - thanks for taking the time to offer some great advice.


Ack re the 400 vs 425 but that is the only/closest they offer in the manual.


I am not sure I am following you re the middle line. The far left seems to go direct to the distributor


I am fairly certain now that the airbox connects to the carb bolt that has the nipple. It sits almost direcxtly under the CCC connector

 

That's correct. The far left line in the drawing goes to the distributor vac advance. The middle line goes to the ported vacuum port on the carb. Normally these two are connected and the vac advance runs off ported vacuum. If the engine starts to overheat, the center port is closed and the vac advance is instead connected to the RH port, which goes to straight manifold vacuum. This advances timing at idle and low RPM, which will cause the engine to run cooler.

 

I had my eureka moment last night....I think.


1. The diagrams above are the only one in the manual that show the thermo switch.

The diagram in found in the section which address the K19 A.I.R. system. The bleed valve they refer to is shown later in the K19 system details.

I have K50 (CCC) but not A.I.R.

2. I failed to mention that I have a 2 barrel carb and thus I do not have the second vacuum port which the pics show the middle line going to. I suspect that the middle line attachment shown is only found on the 4 barrels.

Thus, I think the previous owner added the thermo switch and it was not originally present on my system. I am not sure why it was added but it also explains why he had capped some of the lines and had numerous "T" connectors running all over the place.


This greatly simplifies my vac routing and the only difference from standard routing would be the CCC airbox conection which goes through the rear left carb mounting bolt I think.

 

Well have it all back to stock now. Car runs strong but after it warms up man does she smokes. Have checked plugs are new and gapped. Dwell, timing and mix is good. Carb is bolted down solid and air cleaner is good.


Real stinky grey smoke that really shoots out when I tromp the pedal.


I checked compression and all cylinders are in the 160 range less one which is showing 140.


Vac pressure at the PCV is showing 15


I am wondering now if the previous owner rigged up the thermo switch due to vacuum problems?

 

That gray smoke could be due to a failed transmission vacuum modulator. If the modulator diaphragm is damaged, transmission fluid can be sucked into the engine, and it would give that color to the exhaust.

 

Roger will check that next. If the modulator is leaking does that fit with the smoke being only once the car is warmed up?


Thanks!

 

I don't know. But a new modulator for your car is $20 and takes 10 minutes to replace (and as much as Joe Padavano might call this throwing money at the problem--and he'd be right--you probably need a new one, anyway!).

http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/t...nders-7-0l-2bl

When I experienced a leaky transmission modulator, it was on a '64 Jetstar 88 with a 330 engine a 2-speed Jetaway automatic. The car would make large amounts of white smoke whenever I turned in one direction only (I think it was left, as the modulator is in the right side of the transmission case, so fluid would slosh in that direction on left turns--at least, this is what I always attributed it to). I changed the modulator, and problem gone.

Another thought that occurs to me, as much as I hate to say it, is coolant getting into the combustion chamber. That would certainly make steam that would look like white smoke. Perhaps after the car warms up enough, a weak head gasket is separating somewhere and allowing coolant through. Have you checked the coolant level lately?

Would the compression test you did, which presumably was done with the engine cold, show a problem that only crops up when the engine is hot? Perhaps that one cylinder that's 20 psi lower than all the others is where the gasket is weak and allowing coolant through when warmed up.

I'm just guessing here. You seem to have already covered most of the other bases.

 

Well shot compression again today and could not replicate the low cylinder. All pistons were approx. 165-170 range.


Double checked the vacuum at the brake booster line and it read 13. Revved the engine a bit and it held at 18.


Checked tranny modulator by hand (no hoist and gravel driveway!) and it is wet up there - most likely will need to be replaced. No bad shifts though and nothing wet noted at the vacuum line where it attaches to the carb.


The car was smoky this morning once it warmed up but again, appeared pretty clean at start-up. Made sure the coolant was well topped up as think I had a bit of air in it from removing the thermo switch. Took it out for some highway miles (about 20 minutes out and 20 minutes back). No smoke excessive smoking when I stopped at the half way point nor when I got home.


I will double check the coolant and oil tonight once she cools down.


Thanks for the ideas and options - really appreciate the help this forum offers.

 

That's because I'm both cheap and lazy...

In any case, this is EXTREMELY easy to check before spending a dime. Pull the vacuum line off the modulator and check the inside of the line for trans fluid. If there is ANY fluid, replace the modulator. If not, don't waste the time and money (though many might say that so long as you have the car in the air, you MIGHTASWELL put a new one in).

 

The way I look at it, I want to crawl under the car as few times as possible, so if I'm under there to check the regulator, pulling lines off, etc., anyway, I'm three-quarters of the way to replacing the thing, so I might as well do it all in one fell swoop!

 

Thanks guys. Will try and get it off the ground this weekend.


I warmed it up last night and it smoked more at temp than when cold. Tried it this morning and no smoke running for the 5 minutes or so. I have noticed that I do get condensation dripping out of the tailpipes though.


The coolant level is staying up although the oil may have dropped (need to run it longer to get a better idea)


Its almost like it is burning off condensation in the exhaust at hot idle and is fine once I burn it out. Not sure why it comes back though. I spotted an exhaust leak where the manifold connects to the pipe so maybe this is affecting it in some way?


The other possibility might be the PCV vacuum is not strong enough at idle to clear the case and I am getting blow by?

 

Water dripping out of the exhaust when the car is started cold is normal. One of the products of the combustion of gasoline is water. Until the exhaust system warms up, the water comes out as a liquid. Once it warms up, the water comes out as a vapor, and you don't see it.

The fact that the smoke comes back after the car warms up is something else and not related to a cold exhaust system.

 

I am wondering now if maybe the valve seals were messed up when I sea foamed it last summer