Pilot Bearing OEM or Bronze Bushing?
#5
From my point of view, I had
a 67 C/S with a 330 4-speed
that I did a clutch job on. replaced
all of it. I tossed the bearing and drove
a bushing in place and it was good to go.
Drove well and that rock crusher trans
whined well. I vote bushing.
If you decide you DON'T like it, they
are easily cut out with a nice chisel.
a 67 C/S with a 330 4-speed
that I did a clutch job on. replaced
all of it. I tossed the bearing and drove
a bushing in place and it was good to go.
Drove well and that rock crusher trans
whined well. I vote bushing.
If you decide you DON'T like it, they
are easily cut out with a nice chisel.
#6
I went through and researched this very problem about 2 years ago. I was told by many that a bearing is good until it locks up. A steel bushing will eat the pilot shaft as will a "bronze" bushing that has steel content. Always check a bronze bushing with a magnet. If it is attracted don't use it. I found a genuine "old school" sintered bronze pilot bushing at my local Chevy dealership parts counter. I think I asked for one to fit a '72 Chevelle 350 just as an example. The one I got had the correct size center hole but the OD was too large so I turned it down to the correct press fit size on my lathe. Good to go! Hope this helps!
#7
just a note for an easy way to remove a bronze bushing. find a wooden dowel with an outside diameter nearly the same size as the hole in the bushing. Fill the area behind the bushing and to within a 1/2" of the surface of the bearing. Insert dowel in the hole and the Strike the wooden dowel sharply with a hammer and the bearing will pop out. Old high school auto shop teacher taught me that trick over 50 years ago. Still works
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