I just pulled the yoke from my 72 cutlass differential for a seal replacement and as luck would have it the bearing is bad too and rust on shaft. I have new coils to install and I want to replace the upper link bushings too. So I might as well do every thing now I'm into it. How much trouble is it to remove the whole rear end axle housing and reinstall. I want to clean 38 years of crud also. Any tips or tricks to help. Thanks

 

Let's see..remove brake fluid from M.C., disconnect the brake hose to rearend brake line, place jackstands under the axles, put a floor jack under the pinion, and remove the shocks, and control arms. Keep in mind that the floor jack is there to prevent the axle from pivoting down when you pull the last upper control arm bolt.
At this point I have a buddy steady the rearend, and pull it out the back on the jack.
You'll need a new upper rubber line, and it's easy at this point to just replace the hard line. BTW, the springs should fallout when you remove the housing.
Let us know how it goes..

 

It isn't too bad of a job at all. You and a buddy could do this in an afternoon.

Remove the following...you all ready have the drive shaft out...
Lower shock mounts
Brake line on top of pumpkin, plug the line with something.
lower control arms
upper control arms
Springs will fall out like was stated.

If you drain the M C, you"ll have to bench bleed it again.


Ah yes, the dreaded parking bake cable. So this means the drums have to come off. A little trick to uninstall the cable is use a small hose camp to compress that claw like spring that holds the cable to the backing plate.

If you're replacing the shocks at this time the upper shock mount bolts can be a little challenging. If you have a chance, soak all the listed fasters above with your favorite wd40, pb plaster,liquid wrench etc, before getting started.

Good Luck.

 

Ok thanks for that advice. Now for my next question. How do you get the axles out. The book (service manual) says remove C clips. I'm not seeing them. Are they located on the inside of the axle spline or some where else?

 

No C clips on the original rearend, axles are removed by unbolting the bearing retainer (4 bolts).

 

This is about 90% wrong.

The jack stands need to support the frame.

Get a service manual, as it will give you the proper steps.

 

I was ASSUMING he already had the car on stands....I realize you only do things by the manual.

 

Got the axles out, the proper tool (slide hammer) makes the job a lot easier. Next question, adjusting the side load bearing, and back lash. Any one have any experience at this?

 

A cheapie slide hammer to get the axles out = just take the brake drum & flip it around on the studs,so it is on backwards.Put a few lugnuts on with a few turns.This will let you slide the drum like a slidehammer,to pull the axles out.

 

Old thread I know but I cant seem to get my axles out hoping to get some help.

my car is a 72 supreme AFAIK its the original diff I have a leaking axle seal I want to replace.

from reading on CO it looks like I need to have the bearing pressed off and on to replace the seal is that correct ?

Also another question, I took off the rear diff cover and drained it. I took out the pin and bolt and removed the top and bottom smaller gears in the diff, I couldnt slide out the side larger gears in the diff although they slid on the axle spline. I couldnt see any clip in there holding the axle, so I checked on here looks like there is no clip if it is a 72 axle just remove the four t bolts from the back plate and pull the axle. no luck the axle slides in and out a small amount ~1/16" or so and thats it. I didnt try brians brake drum idea yet (just read it) but I did attach a ~2 foot chain to two lugs and w 2 people swinging a hardwood 4x6 ~3 feet long and about 5-6 lbs we were able to really get some good pulls on it but it didnt budge....I attached some pics do I just need to slide hammer harder or is there a c clip im missing

the pics show the axle, the diff and the back plate bolts I removed

 

4 bolts on that retaining plate in the drum brake if you didnt get them all, the axles are usually stuck in there even after unbolting the 4 bolts it just needs a good yank, i managed to get mine out with a crowbar and a mallet

 

Or, if you're lazy like me, DON'T disconnect the brake lines. Instead pull the axle shafts, unbolt the backing plates from the axle housing (with brake lines still connected), remove the hardlines from the clips on the axle housing, unbolt the junction at the end of the rubber hose where it attaches to the center section, and hang the backing plates from the frame rails with coathanger wire. NOW drop the housing, leaving the brakes intact. No bleeding, no muss, no fuss, and no chance of dealing with rusted brake line fittings or bleeder screws.

 

Big gear head seems to know a lot about axles.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391212

 

Do I have to drop the cover and drain the rear fluid to remove my axles? I'm hoping the fluid level is below the axle height as to not get fluid in the tubes. I am only replacing the backing plates and updating the rear brakes to my 72 Supreme resto.

Any help?

 

I believe the oil level is right the outer wheelbearing., cuz they are lubed by the rear end oil. Ill bet you could do it without removing cover if you removed the plug and made sure it wasn't a little over full then removed axles or maybe to be sure raised one side a little higher than the other and do that side. Then raise other side and do it. Of course top off when done. I also think I remember that it was practice to tilt rear end one way then the other and recheck level at plug to be sure some oil got to rear wheel bearings.

 

You can use a chain method and yank it that way... or you can use a old flywheel or old drum brake as a slide hammer deal too.

IF you remove the wheel cylinder you can get a steel rod in from behind and drive it out with a 4 pound sledge too. MANY ways to do it with back yard tools and items that might be laying around.

Good luck and let us know how you did. Jim

J D