I thought my U-joint would have been a 1310 but it's not.
It looks like it's a 1330 instead. WTF ???

I have a 12 Bolt "O" rear end in my 1970.
The U-joints held in with these little plastic push pins I was told I had to melt
out with a torch......well that didn't work out too well. Still can't pound it out.

But I looked at my new 1310 to 1350 conversion U-joint and 2 of the bearing caps are
too small next to the stock one's. But they aren't as big as the bigger 2 on the ends,
which is the right size. So is the stock one a 1330 to 1350 ???

I guess this is confusing me here.

 

That plastic goes the whole way around in a grove you have to get it to all expand and come out like about a 3 inch long strip. I have run into GM rears with a 372 precision joint which is two different sizes, I dont know the other brands part #. Dave

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCN-372/

It can't be this one. 1310 is too small because I compared it side by side with the 1310/1350 conversion.

I think it's a 1330 but I'm guessing.

 

Wow.....no one knows

Looks like my U-joint was a Napa PUJ-447 Saginaw 44 to 1350.

Even tho Napa said it's a PUJ-534G but that isn't the right one.

With the 1350 pinion yoke now, I think it's 1350 all around......so I'm hoping this 1350 - PUJ 331 will work.

 

The proprietary Olds/Pontiac u joints were similar in size and strength to the Spicer 1350 but don't interchange at all with the 1350. The Spicers use external snap rings and the Olds replacements use internal rings to replace the nylon retainer material that was injected into the cradles. you can shear it with a lot of press, or as others stated gently heat until it runs out like a worm.

 

This article is telling me that you can use External snap ring U-joints to replace the stock one's.
http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8844/8...EPLACEMEN1.htm

So you're right, I can't use the one I just bought since it has outside snap rings. Gdammnit......
Figure 3 shows the nylon injected factory type U-joint on there now.

I need an external snap ring 1350 U-joint. Any ideas where to get one ????
Not having much luck here.....

This is what I need. But 1350 caps on all sides.

 

None of them are right. BOP uses the Mechanic 3R joint it has a 1 1/8" cup outer diameter and inside cup retention (a c-clip that attaches to the caps groove.)

Both 1310 and 1330 are CHEVY u-joints and have the 1 1/16" cap diameter

The 1350 u-joint cap diameter is 1 3/16 "

neapco 2-3011 or spicer 5-3147X will be what you need if all your drive line parts are stock to the car. Jim

 

So there's absolutely no way to upgrade an Olds driveshaft to mate up with a 1350 pinion yoke ??
There's gotta be.......all these guys drag racing, someone's gotta know of something.\

Looks like I'm going to have to get a driveshaft too if this doesn't work out.
They sell this 1350 pinion yoke for earlier Olds, so I'm not sure how U-joint these would use.
This is the same thing i'll need. Maybe I gotta call Denny's or Strange since they are local.

 

Racers get a custom made driveshaft with all 1350 joints. The Spicer yoke for T400 uses 1350, and a custom diff yoke is used to take 1350. I have such a shaft (4" diameter steel) and yoke, 55.5" center to center and remember the Spicer yoke is 2.5" from u joint to beginning of seal surface, not 2" like GM yokes. So, it is like a 56" shaft with a GM yoke would be for fitment. Be sure what length you need before ordering a shaft (or buying my spare). It is not too expensive to shorten one, but you can't lengthen it.

 

As it turns out, this is the actual one we ended up needing, not the one I had.
I tried to remember if it would work, and thought I was wrong......so I took it back.

Turns out I was right the 1st time. I'm going to have my driveshaft shortened a bit because
I couldn't even get it out without dropping the rear end. There was no play at all.

 

Jim has the correct info above.If your original driveshaft will be used,you "could" use a yoke from a 12-bolt Chevy Canadian rear.It takes the same u-joint as the O-axle,but has the 30-spline pinion count for the Chevy rear.You should still be able to get a 3R/1350 u-joint.Last time I got one was 12 years ago,so who knows.

 

Why do you need a 1350 yoke at all? I race with a 1310 yoke and pull the front a foot off the ground... If your tearing up u-joints you have a drive line issue trust me it is not from RAW power...lol. Jim