Well this this build has been all sorts of fun. Tried a cheap little slide hammer to pull the axles, nope. Bought $200 K Tool set with every attachment imaginable from Napa. Two pulls on each axle and out. Don't worry the fun keeps coming. Got the pinion races out without too much drama, good old punch and hammer method. Then the fun began. I discovered my 3 sets of 7/16" fine thread bolts in left hand thread wouldn't fit the used 3:08 gears, I got off Dale Robinson for a good deal. Kevin tapped a couple to right hand thread and they went right in. I tapped the holes and added orange locktite to the grade 8 replacements Heated the ring gear up, went righton and the holes all lined up. I also realized this 8.8 carrier takes different bearings, you can see by the pic. I got the part numbers from Monzaz on here, LM102949 bearings and LM102911 races. For Ford's they apparently pair with the LM102910 races. They pressed right on the 8.8 posi. The races and 4L80E tail shaft seal will be here tonight. I did some clean up of the case inside and out and started painting the case. It will look like W27, will act like I have no idea, if asked.
More tonight.

 

WAIT now you retapped the ring gear bolt holes???? If this is try the ring gear is junk. Please explain what you tapped as it sure sounds like left hand to right hand etc??? Jim

 

No, I just cleaned up the the threads, it is a right hand thread ring gear. We didn't have any right hand thread bolts, nothing open here on Sunday that had fine thread bolts in that size. We just needed to confirm, so we cut a couple of left hand bolts the other way. We decided new bolts was best, bought grade 8 from Fastenal. When did Olds change from right to left hand thread? Either way the races fit, I ground the old small pinion bearing, so I can set up and check depth and remove it easily. I got the rear trans seal changed. I finished painting the housing, next is gear set up, probably this weekend.

 

Ok so, I checked the pinion depth, same as the 2.78, 4.5 " to the housing edge. I basically copied the factory tools to install the pinion in the case. A block of wood clamped to the case with 5" 3/8" extension pressed against the block of wood. An old Ford Ranger exhaust pipe with tape on the edge, perfect and 5 pound hammer. After many blows, it was in. I installed the seal, the yoke fit nice and tight, better on this pinion than the original. Used the impact on the pinion nut, guessed and somehow hit the 24 to 30 inch pounds range, thank goodness. The digital torque wrench only goes down to 40 inch pounds, it didn't register, good. Only beam torque wrench, I could find was in foot pounds. Even the 3/8" version had foot pounds, WTF? Showed around 2 ft-lbs, should be close enough for new bearings. It took forever to get the shims right for back lash. I was going to reuse the factory thick shim for ease of install but they said don't reuse them, they a just case. Why did they use them in the first place? I do like how their are two shims that locate in the axle tubes. We put some instant Right Stuff Red, $10 off ar the outside of the axle seals. Kevin's axle went right in, mine needed a slight tap, 4 bolts flanges tight. Everything turns nice and smooth. Got the brakes drums on. Just the drive shaft on, 85W140 in and wheels on. We are going to do a test run on the jack stands, before the 1/2 hour drive home today.

 

Unless I read past it,, do you use gear marking compound to check drive and coast patterns? Factory gears do not necessarily have the same pinion depth. It is written on the face of the pinion if aftermarket and colour coded if factory- then you refer to the manual for depth.

 

Two foot pounds is 24 inch pounds.
To convert foot pounds to inch pounds, or vice versa, simply multiply or divide by 12.

 

I know the conversion factor, usually the 3/8" torque wrenches are in inch pounds. First thing I did was fill up the rear with 85W140 conventional gear oil. Then the drive shaft and tires. Did a test run on the stands, no bad sounds and didn't get hot, good start. Took the car home, half hour drive. No bad sounds, 1750 rpm at 60 mph in OD with the torque converter locked. New $200 Holley Pressure fuel pressure sensor showed 63-64 psi, same as my actual liquid filled gauge, instead the high 40's, low 50's the cheap sensor showed. I need another one for my oil pressure sensor, also reads 10 to 15 low, showed in the 40's, actual gauge showed 60+ psi on the trip home.I also pulled 20 mpg again, according to the Holley 3.5" display. The only issue was, I only went only snug on the cover, tightened it with my long 3/8" ratchet, see if it stops. I will be traction testing tomorrow😀.

 

Kevin, my Daughter's boyfriend, suggested I should change the gear oil to make sure everything looked fine. When I got this car, I changed to 85W140 from very dirty, possible original gear oil. When I dumped the oil for the posi and rebuild, there was metal filings. I cleaned it out as best I could but probably still some in the axle tubes. The back lash was still the same and all shims still in place. There was some metal but pretty minor, did another good clean out. The fluid was dirty considering the amount of time on it. I added a tube of CRC posi additive and 1.5 liters of 85W140 gear oil, till it was running out the fill hole.